I had no intention of getting out of bed, until I smelt the bacon. Happily cocooned in a soft white mound of duvet and pillows, I’d been delayed not just by my cotton burrow but by two intriguing works of art on the opposite wall. I was trying to figure out the meaning of the sombre pair of black, speckled panels – by the Norwegian artist Mette Stausland – when the aroma wafted into my bedroom.
The curious crayon drawings were just the latest objects to catch my eye in Tinsmith’s House, an extraordinary B&B that opened this summer in the historic heart of Aylsham in Norfolk, halfway between Norwich and Cromer.
A former tinsmith’s workshop (Bernard Matthews is said to have commissioned his first turkey feeders from here), it’s home to a remarkable collection of art and design gathered over the past 30 years by the current owners, Paul Vater and Paul Barratt.
The 18th-century building, clad in cream-painted wooden panels, was converted into a dwelling in 2004 by a local cabinet-maker. His sensitive restoration has kept the ground floor largely open-plan as a living, cooking and eating space, with a wall of doors opening on to a pretty garden.
On two upper levels, he created ample rooms, including two doubles (one en suite) and a large bathroom on the first floor that are now let to guests.
I’m in the Elephant Room, the en suite. The other double, Blofields, is slightly larger, with a super-kingsize bed (Litvinoff & Fawcett) and a 1930s sofa re-covered in Kenzo fabric.
Shelves and cupboards made from old timbers and recycled display cases from a haberdasher’s shop are used by the new owners, whose day jobs are in design, to display their collection of mixed and matched classic, upcycled and high-street pieces.
At every turn, this cleverly curated clutter offers something to scrutinise – an 18th-century campaign table, zig-zag bookshelves made from recycled truck lining, seats from a New York music hall, a needlepoint cushion illustrated with Battersea power station. It’s hard to stop asking “What’s this?” and “Where did you get that?” Luckily, the gentle hosts are patient.
But it’s not all style; there’s substance, too – bedrooms come with pocket-sprung mattresses, high quality linen, a tray of tea, coffee and mineral water, thick towels, toiletries, even ear plugs, Rescue Remedy and the owners’ own guide to the area.
Aylsham itself is an attractive Georgian wool town with quaint lokes (lanes) to wander around, plus a massive 14th-century church. Norwich is a 20-minute drive south, and to the north lie some of the best wide sands and seaside resorts of the north Norfolk coast – Holkham, Blakeney, Cley, Cromer and Wells.
Among the recommended places to eat and drink is Black Boys Inn in Aylsham’s market square. Within a short drive is Galton Blackiston’s new fish and chip shop, No 1 Cromer, on the said resort’s seafront, and the Gunton Arms is even closer at Thorpe Market, owned by art dealer Ivor Braka (check out the Tracey Emins), where the former head chef of Mark Hix’s London restaurants presides over the kitchen.
Back to that bacon. I made my way down to the breakfast room, where a table had been laid with a generous spread of granola, yoghurt, fresh pineapple and blueberries, croissants, orange juice and a pot of tea. Meanwhile, a full English of grilled tomatoes, mushrooms tossed in sage, sausage, eggs as I like them, and, of course, that bacon, was being prepared on the Aga. At Tinsmith’s House, good taste applies to the stomach as well as the eye.
• Accommodation was provided by Tinsmith’s House (01263 586187, tinsmithshouse.com) which has doubles from £70 a night B&B
Ask a local
Paul Vater, co-owner, Tinsmith’s House
• Biddy’s Tea Room, a popular Norwich cafe and bakery, has opened an offshoot in Aylsham. Biddy’s is renowned for serving 50 types of tea – you can create your blend and drink it in the pretty courtyard.
• The Cold Press is a new high-end gallery up the road in Holt, which exhibits and sells work made by artists it invites to use its fully equipped printmaking studio in Swafield, half an hour away.
• For a great day out, ride a steam train along the Bure Valley Railway from Aylsham to Buxton. Once in Buxton, hire a kayak from TheCanoeMan.com and paddle along the Bure to Coltishall before catching the train back to Aylsham.
• Blickling Hall, the home of Anne Boleyn, is a Jacobean gem, a short walk across the fields. They serve good food at the 17th-century Bucks Arms on the estate.
