Push through the mob at the gates of Kaltenberg castle some 50km west of Munich, in Bavaria, and you immediately lose all notion of being in Germany’s answer to silicon valley. People in capes and hoods, nobles in finely embroidered velvets, minstrels with lutes and knights in chain mail mill about the winding path up to the 13th-century fortress. We have just entered the world of the Kaltenberg knights’ tournament. For the past 35 years, Prince Luitpold of Bavaria - the great-grandson of Ludwig III, the last king of Bavaria - has been opening his castle gates to more than 1,000 medieval show people: journeymen, jugglers, singers, dancers, storytellers and knights in armour. The three hectares of land surrounding the castle become a bustling, noisy bazaar, which attracts an audience of more than 120,000 people each year.
It’s like stepping through the screen into Game of Thrones, but without the imminent threat of lost limbs. Performers mingle with the thousands of visitors – many of whom are also dressed in medieval attire – playing music, dancing and telling stories. We sing along with a group of troubadours on one of the five performance stages and watch a juggler roll a glass orb along his limbs as easily as a soap bubble. We enjoy meat cooked over open fires and bread pulled steaming out of enormous clay ovens, which we wash down with mead and ale served in stoneware mugs. (After which, we’re happy enough that the plumbing is very 21st century.)
When the town crier announces the imminent start of the joust, all activity converges on the knights’ tournament, which is the largest in the world. The wooden arena seats up to 10,000 spectators, and the night we’re there the stands are full. Together with Cavalcade, his team of equestrian acrobats, famous horse trainer and stunt choreographer Mario Luraschi stages a two-hour display of cavalier daring. Horses gallop with their riders through the audience into the arena. Lances crack and splinter as knights tilt at each other, balance and somersault on their steeds before tumbling to the ground. The spectacle is a bit like a panto that’s come to life into a vibrant pageant. As the sun sets, artful lighting and open torch flames transform the drama into an atmosphere of awe and mystery.
• The Kaltenberg Knights’ Tournament takes place Friday-Sunday until 27 July. Tickets €23-€65. Programme information and reservations at ritterturnier.de/en/
