"Why is this our house?" asked my daughter, on catching sight of our campervan, with the honest bemusement you only get from a four-year-old. She had a point. As we approached the 1970s design classic in which our family of four were to drive/eat/sleep for the next week, even I was momentarily baffled that this was how we'd chosen to spend our holiday: cramped, jostling for space, banging heads, packing up and dismantling our beds every time we wanted to go anywhere.
What is it about VW campervans that make people love them so? Is it the hippy association? Or the Scooby Doo mystery machine? Perhaps they symbolise the freedom of living on the road – cuter than a Winnebago, less naff than a caravan. All I know is that I've never had so many waves and nods of respect and admiration – it's quite something when the very vehicle you're holidaying in makes people smile.
It helped that our van was the epitome of retro-chic: bright orange with white and yellow swirls and gleaming chrome. Forty years old and a proper style icon, it was one of a fleet run by WeDubYou, a newish company started by British couple Yvette and Tony Martin, who have kitted them out with iPads and iPods (all instructions and navigation programmed in) and generally made staying in them much easier than it was back in the 1970s.
WeDubYou will leave you to your own devices or create an itinerary if you want guidance. We'd opted for the EasyStart, where they book you in for the first night and sort out an evening meal while you get the hang of things. Which meant that Tony, a music industry exile from Brighton (he used to make dance records for indy lable Creation), picked us up from Bergerac airport and drove us to Camping les Ormes 40 minutes away near Villeréal. There, on a treasure of a campsite – small, secluded, completely uncorporate – the van had been made ready for the night – awning up, beds made, hamper stocked.
For those who aren't familiar with campervans, the back seats fold down to make a double bed, and the roof pops up to make another sleeping space above – where the kids slept. They thought it was great fun (although it wouldn't suit claustrophobics). And it's not just the beds that are bijou – it's the cupboards, the sink and the hob. I'm amazed at what can be crammed in to this small vehicle – they've even found room for a boules set and a pair of table-tennis bats.
True, it took a bit of getting used to the necessary contortions of the sleeping arrangements, and hoiking the kids into their "bedroom". But we soon began to fall in line with the everything-in-its-placeness of the whole deal. We would never have passed any proper-camper test: during the day, all our stuff spilled out of the van and was scattered around as if a small explosion had occurred.
We also stayed put more than some people might, because packing everything up just to nip into the village seemed like a bit of a faff. But then Camping Les Ormes was such a great base, with masses of space for children to roam safely, plus a superb restaurant, a good pool and even a lake and farm animals.
When it comes to venturing out, WeDubYou also hires out electric bikes (with trailers and child seats), so we rode to the night market in Villeréal: trestle tables lined up in the middle of the medieval square at which everyone sat to eat food bought at the surrounding stalls. Not far away are other picturesque towns of the Lot et Garonne département such as Issigeac and Monpazier – which are a touch more touristy, with chi-chi cafes and galleries down every winding alleyway.
Tony had suggested that we head next towards Arcachon, on the coast. Driving made us a little apprehensive about breakdowns and absent airbags, but Tony reminded us that our old-timer had a new engine, and that there was no need to go quickly.
Still, it could never be said that our van provided an instantly smooth ride. A constant confusion between reverse and second gear (a common mistake, assured Tony) made for an interesting driving experience. As for the cornerning, we seemed to be about as nimble as a Routemaster bus. But eventually my husband's grip relaxed on the big steering wheel and, as we clocked up the miles, we sang along to music on the iPod provided.
Camping Panorama near Arcachon felt very different. Part of the Yelloh group, which runs more than 60 "villages", mostly in France, it was busy but well-run, with three pools, a water slide and a kids' club. The big draw, however, is its location, right by the extraordinary Dune de Pyla, the biggest sand dune in Europe. Running down the steep slope of sand to the sea is joyous: trekking up again has more of a Lawrence of Arabia epic feel. Back at our van we were happy watching the sharp bright shapes of hang-gliders swooping over the pine trees. We never even made it to the much-feted Cap Ferret, just around the bay.
And any time we were sitting outside the van, people would stop to look, reminisce about childhood holidays and take photos and WeDubYou's details). My husband took to sitting in the driver's seat with his elbow out, even while we were parked, enjoying the unaccustomed sensation of being admired.
• The trip was provided by WeDubYou (020-7193 9058, wedubyou.com) which hires vans from £595 a week, picking up and dropping off at Bergerac airport. Camping les Ormes (campinglesormes.com) has pitches for four people from €37 a night. Camping Panorama (camping-panorama.com) has pitches for four from €32 a night. Ryanair and Flybe fly to Bergerac from several UK airports
