Joanne O'Connor 

Travel tips: have a blast in Budapest, high-end self-catering, and where to stay in Palma de Mallorca

Enjoy happy holidays in Hungary, luxurious cottages in the UK, and a visit to sunny urban Spain. By Joanne O'Connor
  
  

Stalls at a Christmas market in Budapest, Hungary
Budapest's Vorosmarty Square hosts one of the city's traditional Christmas markets. Photograph: Alamy Photograph: Alamy

Take me there: Budapest, Hungary

Why go?
There's a real buzz around Budapest right now, with new boutique hotels opening, exciting urban regeneration projects and an alternative arts and nightlife scene to rival Berlin's. Go for atmospheric Christmas markets, cosy cafés and the chance to try the city's thermal baths.

What to do
The Alternative Budapest walking tour is a perfect introduction to the street art, underground bars and galleries of up-and-coming District VII (alternative budapest.com). Hop on board Tram 2 in Pest for great views of the Danube and the hilltop-castle district in Buda (bkv.hu). If it's snowing, soak in the outdoor thermal pools at Szechenyi Baths (szechenyibath.hu). The Gozsdu Courtyard in the old Jewish quarter is the city's new culture and nightlife hub, with bars, cafés, galleries and design shops.

Where to stay
Combining a boutique guesthouse, members' club and creative centre, Brody House is the city's epicentre of cool (brodyhouse.com), but there's a new contender in the shape of the Baltazár, an edgy design hotel in the castle district with grill restaurant and wine bar (baltazarbudapest.com).

Where to eat
Join the queue at one of the new wave of soup bars for a cheap, warming lunch. Leves was the original and is still one of the best (Vámház körút 14).

Insider tip
"Don't miss the city's famous ruin-bars – pubs and nightclubs which pop up in derelict buildings and other unusual spots," says Regina Papp, editor-in-chief of welovebudapest.com. "The biggest and most popular is Szimpla Kert (szimpla.hu), but others worth checking out are Fogasház, Ellátó Kert, Instant and Furimuri."

Cottage industries: how to take the 'self' out of 'self-catering'

You'd be pretty unlucky to end up staying in a grotty holiday cottage these days. A peek at the websites of upmarket cottage companies such as Sheepskin, Unique Home Stays or Rural Retreats shows just how far the self-catering sector has come. Egyptian cotton sheets, Wi-Fi, welcome hampers and the kind of interior design found in boutique hotels are becoming the norm.

It was only a matter of time before the country-house hotels saw they were missing a trick. Lime Wood in the New Forest (limewoodhotel.co.uk), Cliveden in Berkshire (pictured, clivedenhouse.co.uk) and the Isle of Eriska in Scotland (eriska-hotel.co.uk) are among the luxury piles that have dipped their toes into the self-catering market this year by converting outbuildings into sumptuous cottages, while the Cotswold retreat Barnsley House (barnsleyhouse.com) has revamped a village house. Guests get the privacy of their own home from home with five-star facilities such as concierge, spa, restaurant and room service a phone call or golf buggy ride away.

But perhaps the ultimate decadent holiday pad comes courtesy of the Blenheim Palace estate in Oxfordshire. Water Meadow Cottage is a lavishly converted 18th-century hunting lodge with a range of extras to rival the poshest hotel. It's managed by a London-based luxury lifestyle company that can provide anything from a Fortnum & Mason hamper to a fitness trainer or personal chef (from £325 a night, watermeadowcottage.co.uk).

For a sunny city break, head to... Palma de Mallorca

Hostal Pons What this simple guesthouse lacks in frills it makes up for with character and a fab location in the medieval heart of the city. There are 21 rooms – antique wooden bedsteads, crisp white linen, tiled floors – with shared bathrooms. There's a bit of street noise, but that's the price you pay for having Palma's nightlife on your doorstep. From £50 for a double or twin with shared bathroom (hostalpons.com)

Hotel Balanguera Perhaps it's the dazzling white pueblo-style walls or the roof terrace with pool, day beds and billowing linens, but this laid-back hotel has more than a hint of Ibiza about it. Rooms are white, bright and airy, and a simple buffet breakfast of fruit, eggs, cheese and ham is eaten at communal tables. The hotel is about a 15 to 20-minute walk from the old town. Doubles from €90 (hmbalanguera.com)

Brondo Architect This is a hotel for lovers of design and architecture. The nine loft-style rooms and five industrial-chic suites (which come with kitchens and private terraces) are named after famous architects, and there are many books on design and architecture to browse in the hotel library. On a quiet street, but right at the centre of the old town action, it's a stylish base. Doubles from £105 (brondoarchitect.com)

Calatrava Boutique Hotel The newest addition to Palma's boutique-hotel scene has something that many of the old town hotels lack: a sea view. Book a suite if you want to wake up to an eyeful of ocean. It's the second hotel from Miguel Conde Moragues and Cristina Marti Crespi, who run the gorgeous and highly rated Can Cera Hotel, so you know you're in for a treat. Doubles from £170 (boutiquehotelcalatrava.com)

 

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