Rio de Janeiro's mountainside favelas are as iconic as some of the city's famous landmarks – but offer a completely different perspective to the main tourist sites. Formerly dangerous no-go areas, many are now safe and open, welcoming visitors on favela tours and music nights at bars held within the communities
Santa Marta, the first Rio favela to be 'pacified' by police in 2008, was brightened up by the brilliant Favela Painting art project, created by Dutch duo Haas&Hahn. Thirty-four houses in the main square were painted in a rainbow of bright colours to help boost pride in the communityPhotograph: Peeter Viisimaa/Getty ImagesThe Vidigal favela, in the shadow of the Dois Irmãoes mountain, has some of the finest views in Rio, overlooking the Leblon and Ipanema beaches and Cagarras islandPhotograph: Getty Images/VettaThe Casa Alto Vidigal pousada (guesthouse) sits at the top the Vidigal favela. Its breathtaking views have made it a landmark and – with its Ibiza-style lounge bar and outdoor dance floor – a brilliant spot for all-night parties and DJ sessions under the Sunday sunsetPhotograph: PRRocinha is the biggest favela in South America, home to an estimated 150,000-300,000 people. It has developed from a shantytown into an 'urbanized slum' and boasts hundreds of businesses, banks, restaurants, internet cafes and even its own television channel. It was also one of the first favelas to set up tours for visitors, long before the 'pacification' process beganPhotograph: Christophe Simon/AFP/Getty ImagesLike many Rio favelas, the view from the top of Rocinha is spectacular. Here, the distinctive Pedra da Gávea mountain dominates the vistaPhotograph: Miguel Caibarien/CorbisA barber talks to a neighbour in Dona Marta, near BotafogoPhotograph: Rodrigo Abd/APThe Complexo do Alemão, formerly one of the most violent favelas in Rio, recently received a cable-car system in an attempt to integrate the community with the surrounding city. This has also become a tourist attractionPhotograph: Mario Tama/Getty ImagesMariluce, centre, leads tourists around Alemão in Rio’s poor, gritty, industrial Zona Norte. It is even poorer than the large favelas in Zona Sul, but, says Mariluce: “As you can see, this is a neighbourhood like any other.” Photograph: Dominic Philips/GuardianThe Maze Pousada in the Tavares Bastos favela in central Rio is owned by British expat Bob Nadkarnion and teeters over the favela like a Gaudí castle, full of stairways and corridors and hidden nooks and crannies, with panoramic views over Guanabara BayPhotograph: PRThe Maze pousada's monthly jazz nights have put the favela on Rio's party circuit. The live music is excellent but the 40 reais (£11) cover charge makes it too expensive for most localsPhotograph: PRPedro, left, and Thiago offer tours of their Santa Marta favelaPhotograph: Dominic Philips/Guardian
