Sojourn Boutique Villas
One of Siem Reap's most unique places to stay is also one of its most caring. A socially responsible resort of 10 villas set within palm-filled gardens around a swimming pool, Sojourn supports the poverty-stricken residents of Treak village where the property is located. Most staff are from Treak and 7% of profits go to a village enrichment programme, providing water filters, garbage collection, and tree grants. Guests can do a "walk-and-talk" tour of the village, chatting to locals and visiting an off-the-beaten-track pagoda and Khmer temple, devoid of tourists. Cooking classes, moonlit theatre, and destination dining – breakfast on Tonlé Sap perhaps – are also offered.
• Treak Village Road, Treak Village, +855 12 923 437, sojournsiemreap.com. Doubles from £68.20 B&B
Sala Lodges
Don't be surprised if you find yourself taking as many photographs of this beautiful new property as you do of the Unesco-listed temples you're here to visit. Accommodation consists of 11 Khmer-style timber houses on stilts, scattered around sprawling gardens of sugar palms and banana plants. Boasting high ceilings and spacious verandas, the traditional houses are decorated with rustic wooden furniture and handmade Cambodian quilts, and modern touches such as contemporary rocking chairs. Long Table offers communal dining and an alfresco lounge while The Monolith restaurant offers local produce such as Tonlé Sap fish, served with avocado purée and wild rice mango salad.
• 498 Salakomroeuk, +855 63 766 699, salalodges.com. Houses sleep two-five and start from £90 a day B&B as part of a four-day package, more on a nightly rate
Navutu Dreams Resort and Spa
Cambodia meets Ibiza best describes this low-rise whitewashed resort at the end of a dirt track amid rice paddies. Don't let the drive here along a dusty road toward the outskirts of town dishearten you. Once you arrive you won't want to leave, especially after a free foot massage as you relax on a rooftop four-poster bed to watch the sunset. Large light-filled rooms are set in tropical gardens overlooking two swimming pools and there's an on-site spa. If dinner at the palm-thatched pavilion bar-restaurant doesn't appeal, go into town – included is a tuk-tuk and driver at your disposal.
• Angkor High School Road, Salakomruk Commune, +855 63 688 0607, navutudreams.com. Doubles from £55.80 B&B
Hotel Be Angkor
This chic, central three-room B&B sits above the stylish AHA restaurant and wine bar on Siem Reap's buzziest laneway, lined with boutiques, galleries, shops, restaurants and bars, including Linga Bar (lingabar.com), with its legendary drag show. Decorated with an impeccable sense of style, the plush rooms have all mod cons, terraces overlooking the laneway, and feature original art, photography, sculpture, and design objects by local artists and photographers, such as Loven Ramos and Sopheap Pich. Extras include in-room spa treatments and themed packages, such as photography tours with photographer John McDermott, and a culinary package with dinners at local restaurants.
• The Passage, Old Market Area, +855 63 965 321, hotelbeangkor.com. Doubles from £61.40 B&B
FCC Angkor
On the riverside in one of Siem Reap's most distinctive buildings, the FCC or Foreign Correspondents' Club wasn't a hang-out for reporters like its Phnom Penh sister property but was the old French governor's mansion. It still boasts colonial charm, with ceiling fans, shutters and retro sofas; however, the accommodation, in adjoining low-rise buildings, is by contrast sleek and contemporary. Recently refurbished minimalist rooms overlook a garden or the swimming pool. Pool-view rooms are brighter. Breakfasts are great (try the eggs Benedict) and the restaurant, open late, serves tasty Asian and western food. An on-site spa offers discounts for guests.
• Pokambor Avenue, next to the Royal Residence, +855 63 760 280, fcccambodia.com. Doubles from £46.50 B&B
Golden Banana Boutique Hotel and Resort
On a lantern-lit lane, these adjoining gay-friendly properties feel like something of a secret, tucked away in an untouristy neighbourhood yet with an alley shortcut through the crafts market to the heart of Siem Reap. Set around a swimming pool, the whitewashed buildings house a variety of rooms: from doubles with small balconies to two-storey lofts (called "villas") with terraces and outdoor baths. Breakfast is underwhelming, but there are plenty of cafes nearby. Don't get confused with the Golden Banana Guesthouse on the corner.
• Golden Banana Lane, Wat Damnak area, +855 63 766 655, goldenbanana.info/theresort. Doubles from £37.80 B&B
La Niche d'Angkor Hotel
The unprepossessing exterior of this small family-owned hotel may not be inviting, but reserve judgment. You will change your mind as the young staff escort you to your room along paths shaded by palm and banana trees, and flower boxes dripping with orchids. Once you spot the enormous deep-blue swimming pool, with plenty of sunloungers, you'll be building more downtime into your itinerary. Breakfast dishes are generous, with noodles and fried rice as well as eggs. Rooms are simply decorated, spacious and clean. Book a first-floor room with balcony and pool views – lovely for sipping icy beers after a sweaty day scrambling over ruins.
• Street 27, Wat Bo Road, +855 63 968 978, lanichedangkor.com. Doubles from £30.40 B&B
The River Garden
In lush tropical gardens on the tranquil banks of the Siem Reap river, this small hotel is ideal for travellers who like exploring neighbourhoods. Street food stalls set up in the evening on the corner and there's a market nearby where chef Saroun takes guests on her street food tours and cooking classes. Set within several timber buildings with tiled terraces and breezy decks, the spacious rooms are furnished with Cambodian silk textiles. A charming traditional two-storey Khmer house with a big wooden veranda can also be booked. The poolside restaurant serves home-style Cambodian food and delicious baked treats.
• River Road, near the National Museum, +855 63 963 400, therivergarden.info. Doubles from £27.90 B&B
Palm Village Resort and Spa
If your budget doesn't quite stretch to Sala Lodges, book one of the traditional Khmer-style houses on this large, lush property not far from the temples. Choose between Palm Houses, with tiled patios and cane chairs, Bamboo Houses, with traditional matting and mattresses on the floor; and the more comfortable new Wooden House, with shuttered doors and veranda. The only downside is the distance into town, but a free tuk-tuk service, good-sized swimming pool, cheap massages, and a restaurant serving authentic Khmer food make up for it. Not to mention the fragrant flower-filled garden and a soundtrack of birdsong.
• Phum Trapaing Ses area, +855 63 964 466, palmvillage.com.kh. Bungalows from £21.70 a night B&B; discounts for longer stays
Angkor Boutique Hostel and Jasmine Family Hostel
Siem Reap is home to an outstanding number of soulless guesthouses but this backpacker favourite – one of two adjoining hostels owned by a Cambodian family – is distinguished by its warm service, boutique style, a palm-shaded swimming pool and clean rooms, including dorms, quad, triple, twin, double, single, and family rooms. It has one of the longest lists of affordable and original tours and activities on offer: everything from an ox-cart trip into the countryside to a traditional Khmer wedding (the price list can be found on the website). It can also arrange visa extensions and transport to the Thai border.
• Salakanseng village, Svay Dangkheum commune, +855 63 760 697, angkorboutiquehostel.com. Dorm bed from £3.70, doubles, with fan, from £7.45 B&B
