White-tailed sabrewing
Found exclusively in the rainforests of Tobago and Venezuela, this exquisite hummingbird was feared extinct because of Hurricane Flora in 1963. Happily, recent surveys show that its population is recovering. Hire a guide to take you to the heart of Tobago's lush Main Ridge Reserve – prime sabrewing habitat. Keep an eye out for non-venomous snakes, stream frogs, manicou crabs, red-tailed squirrels and leafcutter ants. If walking without a guide, bear in mind that it is not a circular trail and you will have to turn back at some point.
• Ask your hotel or check the online guide mytobago.com for guide recommendations. Peter Cox (+1868 294 3086, tobagonaturetours.com) and Newton George (+1868 660 5463, newtongeorge.com) are two of the most experienced and well-respected guides. The pocket-sized, laminated Wildlife of Trinidad and Tobago includes illustrations of the islands' commonly encountered animals and is available at the airport gift shops, larger hotels and via Environment Tobago (environmenttobago.net). Students at The University of the West Indies have also compiled an online guide (sta.uwi.edu/fst/lifesciences/ogatt.asp)
Leatherback turtle
To see one of these ancient creatures is an experience of a lifetime – no exaggeration. Initially appearing as dark shapes looming at the water's edge, these giant reptiles heave and lumber their way up the beach, seeking a spot to lay their precious eggs. Some are 80 years old, up to two metres long and weigh up to 700kg. Equally special is watching the miniature versions emerge from the sand. To see these extremes of scale on the same evening is truly mindblowing. Turtles enter a brief trance-like state while laying eggs, which allows for incredible close-up encounters, but follow your guide's instructions to minimise disturbance.
• Head to Turtle Beach between March and July to see adult leatherback turtles, or between June and September to see hatchlings. Ask at Turtle Beach Hotel (+1868 639 2851, rexresorts.com) for details of local guides or contact SOS Tobago (+1868 328 7351, sos-tobago.org)
Southern stingray
Measuring as much as 1.5 metres across, Southern stingrays gracefully glide in the shallows of many of Tobago's bays. Apparently oblivious to underwater observers, they will float silently past as you watch from a distance – an exhilarating experience. They are easily spotted from the sandy shore parallel with Pigeon Point road and in Little Bay, Castara. The latter is renowned for its many resident rays and is also home to green and hawksbill turtles, octopus, reef squid and a huge variety of fish. Swimming and snorkelling with the rays is very safe – just give them plenty of space and take care when stepping in and out of the water.
• Swim out directly from Little Bay beach or contact Alibaba Tours (+1868 686 7957, alibaba-tours.com) for snorkelling trips from Castara
Magnificent frigatebird
Truly deserving of its grand title, this bird is a common sight in the skies around the island. Follow in the footsteps of David Attenborough – who visited in the late 1980s to film The Trials of Life – and venture to the island of Little Tobago, off the north-east coast, to see this scavenger stealing the catch of other seabirds. Take a glass-bottomed boat tour from Speyside, which includes an opportunity to snorkel the reefs around Goat Island, as well as of landing on Little Tobago. The most impressive time to visit is between December and April, when the frigates are joined by other migrating seabirds, including the elegant red-billed tropic bird, which breeds on the island.
• Frank's boat tours (+1868 766 0093) leave from Blue Waters Inn, Speyside, every day at 10.30am and 2pm
Trinidad motmot
Unmistakable thanks to its long "tennis-racquet" tail feathers and iridescent turquoise brow, the Trinidad motmot has recently been reclassified by scientists as a new species, unique to the islands. You have a good chance of seeing this glamorous bird – and the equally elegant rufous-tailed jacamar – while driving along the west coast and across the Main Ridge road: both like to perch on overhead wires to catch flying insects.
Rufous-vented chachalaca
Alongside Trinidad's scarlet ibis, this is Tobago's contribution to the country's national birds. It is called "cocrico" locally, because of the sound it makes and you will undoubtedly come across it – and its noisy call. Cocricos are often seen at the forest edge behind beaches and even within the gardens of some of Tobago's eco-oriented hotels, such as Kariwak, near Crown Point. Look out for a multitude of other colourful garden birds, including the friendly bananaquits and charismatic kiskadees. Keen birders will want to invest in a bird book before travel. Helm Field Guides' Birds of Trinidad & Tobago has illustrations of most species and is reasonably portable.
Orange-winged Amazon parrot
Imagine snorkelling with shoals of rainbow-coloured parrotfish then looking up to see a flock of parrots flying overhead. Castara Bay, Englishman's Bay and Pirate's Bay all offer this magical possibility: unbeatable snorkelling with a rainforest backdrop. Stay until the late afternoon to see multiple pairs of these vivid green beauties flying inland like brightly painted mechanical toys.
Trinidadian guppy
These are the wild version of the world's best-loved tropical pet fish. Guppies are caught by children and known locally as drainfish. They have also been intensively studied (cnas.ucr.edu/guppy), providing some of the best evidence we have for evolution by natural selection. This fascinating little fish can be found throughout the island in habitats as diverse as the mangroves behind Buccoo Reef and the sewers in Scarborough. In the clearer streams, it is possible to watch males wooing females with their intense colour patterns and s-shaped dance moves.
In the Canaan area, take Golden Grove Road via Milford Road, just before Penny Savers supermarket. Drive until you reach a bridge. Walk a short way along the mangrove-fringed stream and search the shallow edges for shoals of small fish
Mantis shrimp
It is neither a praying mantis nor a shrimp – and is a much more exciting creature than either, famous for possessing a range of colour vision that we cannot even conceive. Even to catch a glimpse of this small (8cm) but speedy tropical invertebrate is thrilling. A great place to try is the coral rubble along Pigeon Point strip. Lift small boulders to reveal a world of colourful sponges, corals, anemones, sea cucumbers, sea slugs and brittle stars. Children will love this.
Be sure to replace boulders carefully, as you found them, so as not to desiccate or crush the inhabitants. Wear shoes to protect yourself from sea urchins
Atlantic spotted dolphin
If the sea is calm, ask a local fisherman to take you from Charlotteville to St Giles Island for excellent snorkelling and birdwatching – and you might just be lucky enough to attract these distinctive dolphins on the way. Shortly before reaching St Giles, you pass London Bridge, a spectacular arch formation that is a hub for nesting and feeding seabirds.
Expect to pay a fisherman around £30 for a trip to St Giles.
Amy Deacon first visited Trinidad & Tobago six years ago to study guppies, and now lives and works there as a biologist for the University of St Andrews in collaboration with The University of the West Indies
