Joanne O'Connor 

Travel tips: Sicily, walking in Yorkshire and place to stay in the Forest of Dean

New flights to Ragusa, Sicily, walking in the Pennines and the Forest of Dean in autumn. Joanne O'Connor reports
  
  

Ragusa, Sicily
Red roofs: the ancient tiles and narrow alleys of Ragusa in Sicily. Photograph: Alamy Photograph: Alamy

Take me there: Ragusa, Sicily

Why go?
A new Ryanair flight from Stansted to Comiso has put this south-eastern corner of Sicily on the radar. Comiso is a gateway to the province of Ragusa, which is home to some of the island's most beautiful baroque towns and beaches. On the same latitude as Tunisia, it stays balmy well into October.

What to do
Don't miss the baroque towns of Ragusa, Modica and Scicli, with their ornate palazzi and churches. Soak up the sun at the beach resort of Marina di Ragusa, or the attractive fishing villages of Sampieri and Donnalucata.

Where to stay
A contemporary boutique hotel in a medieval building, Hotel Novecento in Scicli makes a great base, and its breakfast of sausage flan, pastries, local cheese and honey will set you up for the day (novecentohotel.it). Casa Talia is a charming B&B on a hillside overlooking Modica (casatalia.it).

Where to eat
Michelin-starred chef Ciccio Sultano serves up dishes such as roast baby pig in a chocolate and marsala sauce at the acclaimed Il Duomo in Ragusa. For a more down-to-earth take on Sicilian cuisine, try Agriturismo Rosacambra, near Marina di Ragusa. Sicilians run on arancini (deep-fried rice balls). The best are at Cantunera in Comiso (Via G di Vita, 17), which takes the street-food staple and turns it into an art form.

Insider tip
"If you want a really special place, there is a wonderful sandy beach called Randello, which is backed by a thick pine forest," says Comiso resident Mimma Trovato, treasurer of the local Unesco Club. "There are no restaurants or food stalls, as it's 4km from the nearest village, Punta Braccetto – but this is part of its charm."

Pacing the Pennines: take Yorkshire in your stride and embark on a walk

In September 1938, the writer and illustrator Alfred Wainwright set off from Settle in North Yorkshire for a walk across the Pennines. Over the next 11 days he walked 247 miles, completing a circular journey which took him through the Yorkshire Dales and up to the high moorland around Hadrian's Wall. His account of the walk laid untouched in a drawer until it was discovered and published in 1986, forming the basis for one of the UK's best-loved long-distance walks (penninejourney.org.uk).

To celebrate the 75th anniversary of Wainwright's Pennine Journey, a number of events have been organised along the route, including the inaugural North Pennines Walking Festival (28 September-6 October, northpennineswalkingfestival.org.uk). Celebrating the writers and artists who have taken their inspiration from the Pennines, the nine-day festival will include 50 guided walks and various talks.

On 28 September, groups of walkers will complete the 18 different stages of the journey as part of the "PJ in a day" challenge. And on 5 October you can join the author David Pitt, who revised and updated Wainwright's guide in 2010, on an anniversary walk from Settle station (wainwright.org.uk/pennine_journey.html).

And if that's not enough to inspire you to pull on your walking boots, the popular Black Sail Youth Hostel (yha.org.uk) in Ennerdale, which is one of the most remote and picturesque stops on the route, will reopen on 21 October following a £260,000 refurbishment.

It's getting autumnal, so head for... the Forest of Dean

Robin and Wren Cottage, Mitcheldean A pair of cute and compact cottages in a rural location at the end of a quiet track (the lack of Wi-Fi and dodgy phone signal only add to the sense of seclusion). There are dreamy views across the valley, a wildlife garden with a pond and bird hide, and footpaths leading from the front door into the forest. Each cottage sleeps two.
From £34 a night (holidaylettings.co.uk/rentals/forest-of-dean/176199)

The Rock B&B, Coleford This popular motel-style B&B ticks all the right boxes: a great location, friendly owners who are happy to advise on day trips and walks (the hike to Symonds Yat Rock is recommended), modern, comfortable rooms and delicious breakfasts. It's dog-friendly and there's a drying room for wet clothes and cycle storage, too.
Doubles from £62 per night, B&B (stayattherock.com)

The Dome Garden, near Mile End A cluster of futuristic white geodesic domes in the heart of the ancient Royal Forest of Dean. Proper beds, wood-burning stoves and en suite flushing loos place this at the luxury end of the glamping spectrum. Campfires, pizza nights and bike trails in the forest keep the kids happy.
From £395 for a three-night weekend in a dome sleeping four (domegarden.co.uk)

Tudor Farmhouse hotel, Clearwell This lovely 13th-century stone farmhouse has been converted into a relaxed hotel. If it's wonky floors and exposed beams you're after, book a room in the main house, but the most luxurious and airy rooms and suites are in the Cider Barn annexe. The restaurant prides itself on using produce sourced within a 20-mile radius.
Doubles from £95 to £200 a night B&B (tudorfarmhousehotel.co.uk)

 

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