Baltimore is probably best known as the location for gritty TV series The Wire and Homicide. But it's also famous for its seafood, its architecture and the fierce loyalty it inspires in its inhabitants
The Inner Harbour is a historic seaport sitting on the northwest branch of the Patapsco river that is now the tourist centre of Baltimore. It was described by the Urban Land Institute in 2009 as “the model for post-industrial waterfront redevelopment around the world”. Photograph: Jacob KeplerThe Domino sugar refinery, with its iconic red neon sign, is still open, the last major manufacturer still operating in Baltimore’s Inner Harbor, producing 350 billion single-serving sugar packets every year. Domino has been operating here for 91 years - the sign is 62 years old. Photograph: Jacob KeplerWarehouses on the dock. In the 1960s, the docks were alive with industry - Procter & Gamble made soap and cosmetics here, Bethlehem Steel repaired ships, Allied Chemical processed chrome, and the shipping channels were busy with barges loading and unloading. Photograph: Jacob KeplerLP Steamers Crab House, on Fort Avenue in South Baltimore's Locust Point, is a no-nonsense neighbourhood diner that serves the famous steamed blue crabs of Chesapeake Bay - and cold beer. Photograph: Jacob KeplerLP Steamers' money map of the world. Photograph: Jacob KeplerSteamed spiced crab, a Baltimore delicacy. Photograph: Jacob KeplerDifferent parts of the US have their own unique barbecue tradition, and Baltimore is no exception. Pit beef is usually a rump that is dry-rubbed, smoked, and grilled to rare. Chaps Charcoal Restaurant, on Pulaski Highway, has been serving pit beef in town for over 25 years. It is housed in the parking lot of a strip club (yes, you read that right). Photograph: Jacob KeplerPit beef is sliced paper thin and served on a Kaiser roll with onions, mustard and horseradish.Photograph: Jacob KeplerClub Charles has been the Baltimore place to see and be seen since 1981. A favourite of local film director John Waters, it is packed with art students, filmmakers and musicians.Photograph: Jacob KeplerThe atmosphere in Club Charles is "a bit art-deco-meets-The Shining", according to one local writer, but the servers and bartenders are friendly and quick. The jukebox (a rare find these days) is superb. Photograph: Jacob KeplerA retro cigarette vending machine in Club Charles - very filmic.Photograph: Jacob KeplerThe George Peabody Library is the 19th-century research library of The Johns Hopkins University, funded by the Anglo-American entrepreneur and philanthropist from which it takes its name. The books are available for use by the general public, in keeping with Peabody's dream of creating a library "which is to be maintained for the free use of all persons who desire to consult it". The exquisite interior – "a cathedral of books" – was designed by Baltimore architect Edmund G Lind. Photograph: Jacob KeplerThe library's 300,000-volume collection is strong on religion, British art, architecture, topography and history.Photograph: Jacob KeplerClose to John Hopkins University is Charles Villiage with its Victorian row homes that house many of the university's staff. In 1998, Charles Village residents were challenged to renovate the facades and front porches of their homes in bright colours - with $3,000 prize money for the best front porch, $2,000 for the best flush front facade and $500 for the best front door. The contest ended in 2003, but the lasting result is the iconic "Painted Ladies" houses.Photograph: Jacob Kepler
