Louise Amery 

Seaside holidays in Aberystwyth, Mid-Wales: an insider’s guide

Arts and Aberystwyth go hand in hand but the mid-Wales region also boasts Borth's beautiful beach, great seafront food and the leisurely pleasure of the Vale of Rheidol railway
  
  

Sand dunes on Borth beach
Sand dunes on Borth beach. Photograph: Alamy Photograph: Alamy

Beaches

My favourite beaches are Aberystwyth and Borth. I love Borth for its wide open space, great swimming and the stunning views across the estuary where on a clear day you can see the mountains of Snowdonia in the distance, right up to the Llyn peninsula. I love Aberystwyth for the tradition of "kicking the bar" where locals walk from one end to the other and back along the promenade taking in the sea air, past the old college buildings of Aberystwyth University, the Castle and all the seafront hotels.

Where to eat and drink

Food is a real strength of the county, there are farmers markets and food festivals across the region – Aberaeron fish festival is a highlight, and an excuse to visit the lush Harbourmaster Hotel (2 Quay Parade) or have a famous honey ice-cream from The Hive (Cadwgan Place) on the quay. In Aberystwyth there's fabulous food at Gwesty Cymru (19 Marine Terrace), or cocktails and brilliant pizzas at Baravin (Llys Y Brenin, Terrace Road) both on the seafront. If you're lucky you'll see dolphins through the window as you enjoy your meal! And talking of dolphins, a boat trip out to see them and to go seal-spotting from Newquay is a must.

Things to see and do

Over the summer don't miss an opportunity to support the local agricultural shows which take place across the county, in particular the Aberystwyth and Ceredigion county show, which is the main county show. Or take a leisurely train trip on the Vale of Rheidol railway (Park Avenue, Aberystwyth). Return tickets, adults £16, kids £4) from Aberystwyth up to Devil's Bridge, a great steam experience.

Culture and arts

There are stunning venues in which to enjoy the arts in both Welsh and English, with the internationally renowned Aberystwyth Arts Centre (Aberystwyth University), the Theatr Mwldan (Bath House Road, Cardigan) and Theatr Felinfach (Llanfihangel Ystrad). Arad Goch (Bath Street, Aberystwyth) offers theatre for young people, and there are wonderful exhibitions in the National Library of Wales (Penglais Road, Aberystwyth, llgc.org.uk), which also provides opportunities to research your family tree and discover your Welsh ancestors. And we also have a museum housed in an old cinema at the Ceredigion Museum in Aberystwyth.

I also love the peaceful setting of the National Trust property at Llanerchaeron (Ciliau Aeron, near Aberaeron), which was designed by John Nash and lets you explore the self-sufficient lifestyle of the Welsh gentry in the 18th century.

Aberystwyth has fantastic festivals: the International Ceramics festival sees potters and ceramicists descend on the town, while the Musicfest is a gem for lovers of classical music. At the other extreme it's also home to the Abertoir Horror festival.

Louise Amery, acting director, Aberystwyth Arts Centre. The summer production is Little Shop of Horrors (Tickets from £7.50)

 

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