Katie Rogers 

Twitter road trips USA: Texas to New Mexico day four – as it happened

Katie Rogers continued her journey west, starting in Roswell, UFO central, going to Santa Fe by way of desert and springs, for a taste of green chili in the Enchanted Land
  
  

Welcome to Roswell... where alien kitsch meets sleepy small town America.
Welcome to Roswell... where alien kitsch meets sleepy small town America. Photograph: Joseph Sohm/Visions of America/Corbis Photograph: Joseph Sohm/Joseph Sohm/Visions of America/Corbis

Good night, Santa Fe

I'm watching Sarah run through the streets of downtown Santa Fe trying to capture the perfect shot of a breathtaking sunset as I type this. 

We've just strolled through the downtown plaza area, where a large crowd is gathered in a park to watch live music. 

A lot of the stores and attractions have closed – including the Loretto Chapel and the Palace of Governors, sorry guys …

 … but we've been able to pop into a shop or two and talk with the locals. 

Kelly Savage runs Sante Fe Hemp, and had some answers for us about her state. 

Known for: "When you leave you think of green chile. I think a lot of people think they're doing to the desert ... I don't think a lot of people know we have a huge film industry."

Best part: "The sky. Sunsets are gorgeous."

[Blogger's note: ACCURATE.]

Savage then tacked on a worst part: "The fires. The worst thing is fire season, as they call it now ... I think we have six fires going." 

We've missed a lot of the daytime attractions, but we're going to take your suggestions for a drink at La Casa Sena. We'd stay out later, but we have to leave Santa Fe at 4:30am in order to catch a 6am hot air balloon ride in Albuquerque.

If we have time – and without hundreds of miles to drive tomorrow, we should – we'll backtrack along the route and check out the Turquoise Trail and Cerrillos

For now, goodnight from the Land of Enchantment. Our final day is tomorrow and we're going to jam-pack it as full as we can, so leave your Albuquerque suggestions in the comments below.

Day four – mapped

The fourth day of Katie's southwest saga brought her into contact with the guardians of Billy the Kid, a man who springs daily into hot springs, and finally to the people of Santa Fe, who welcomed her with green chili and apéritifs

An update of Santa Fe's finest

While we're waiting for Katie's report from the plaza, here are a few more tips from readers on the basics of staying in Santa Fe.

The road trip team are staying at El Rey Inn, but other reader picks for lodging have been Las Palomas and the Inn of the Five Graces, though DorianHawkmoon warns that it's "not so much Santa Fe as extremely over the top elegant in a "City Different" kind of way".

Geronimo has received high marks from a number of readers, but there have also been plenty of warnings about its high prices. DorianHawkmoon suggests Maria's or Tiny's – Maria's odd margarita customs aside – for authentic Mexican food, as well as Cafe Pasqual's and Harry's Roadhouse, to round out his list of Santa Fe's top possessive-proper-noun restaurants.

Chances are slim that Katie will make most of these locations, but that doesn't mean you have to miss out.

Keep 'em coming!

Literally brilliant

While Katie's adventures tonight in Santa Fe, ChebHead has reminded us what she team missed in the mad dash west for green chili – a whole lot of natural wonder, a "cloud-climbing railway", and a mysterious David Carradine lookalike. At Guardian Witness, we're advised:

The Guadalupe Mountains are essentially a cowboy film set, and well worth visiting for that reason alone. But they're also intensely beautiful and very well protected, meaning there is a good chance of seeing wildlife along the trails. I'd recommend the Peak, McKittrick, and Devil's Hall hikes, the last being especially appropriate if you lack time or energy.

Northwest of the Guadalupe Mountains is a wonderful little town more than 8,000 feet high, buried in the Lincoln National Forest, called Cloudcroft, NM. It is a kind of oasis settlement with scenery like the Swiss Alps, made all the weirder since you can … see down to the White Sands and for miles into the endless desert. There's also a hostel there that was built by a David Carradine lookalike from scratch (who still runs it). And something called the cloud-climbing railway. Well worth a look.

A little to the west of Cloudcroft is the White Sands National Monument … It is as advertised: lots of white sand. Brilliant, though (literally).

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So hot it's green

Since we crossed the border into New Mexico yesterday, the chants of "Green chile! Green chile! Green chile!" have been constant. After checking into our motel, actually consuming some of the famed pepper mixture was top of our list for Santa Fe. (The perfect choice for a day of record-breaking heat spent in hot springs, I say.) 

We considered heading to The Shed (highly recommended) but in the end I decided on the similarly popular Horseman's Haven Cafe, a hole in-the-wall Mexican diner next door to a gas station. The place is unassuming but since reviews on Yelp often include the phrase "face meltingly hot", it was the only choice. 

We ordered chile cheeseburgers ($6.25) and John had a 3D burrito ($8.95). Everything was smothered in green chile (except for mine, which came with red child on the side, because I am a baby).

I tried the green chile – a dull heat that was spicy enough for me. John and Sarah, though, decided to kick the heat up a notch by ordering the Level 2 green chile – which the waiter would only give to them in tiny amounts – and sweating/crying their way through it. 

After delicious food and 8,000 glasses of water later, we asked waiter Luis Varela about New Mexico. 

Known for: "It's the Land of Enchantment. We have a little bit of everything."

Best thing: "I would say the weather."

[Blogger's note: To which I replied, "are you insane?!"] 

Next up, we'll go explore the downtown plaza area.

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Breakfast to bars in Santa Fe

We've had a lot of great recommendations for what to see and do in Santa Fe, but it remains to be seen how much Katie can get to. 

FrankDeFord at Guardian Witness has a whole suggested itinerary, including the sage advice that you can always "ask for anything on the menu to come 'Christmas' (red and green chilli - the answer to New Mexico's state 'question.')"

For "coffee and local gossip", there's Aztec Cafe on Aztec Street. For "for a broad selection of pre-loved cowboy boots and southwestern chic" there's the Double Take emporium (also recommended by amholzer). There's a great view of the city in Hillside Park, and for a long (if pricey) lunch, there's The Compound on Canyon Road.

And then there are the bars, a number of which have come highly recommended on Twitter and below the line.

For an aperitif before dinner you can go to La Casa Sena – apparently the Coen brothers favorite Santa Fe haunt – on E Palace St, and FrankDeFord tells us that "You're more likely than not to spot film celebs sitting next to you under the large trees and fairy lights."

There's also Coyote Cafe Cantina, which amholzer recommends for its food and rooftop, and El Farol and the Palace Restaurant (both restaurants). And finally, Cowgirl as been called the "only" place for late-night drinks, perhaps because of something to do with FrankDeFord's final comments … 

A warning: the city's streets all but roll up at 10pm - follow the crowds and noise to hidden drinking holes under the immense, star-sprinkled sky.

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Arrival in Santa Fe

We've just pulled into our motel, El Rey Inn, at the recommendation of gratefulred78. It reminds me a lot of the Austin Motel; clean, affordable and very much reflective of the outside town's culture. 

There's a nice courtyard and fountain outside, plus an outdoor pool and hot tub; we probably will not use these, but it's nice to know the amenities are there. 

We'd planned to arrive in Santa Fe early afternoon, so we've got to play catchup. First, we're going to feed ourselves: We're going to check out nearby Horseman's Haven Cafe at the recommendation of a couple of commenters and @jacecooke. Then we'll explore downtown Santa Fe, using a few of usaprofessor5's recommendations. 

So lets sign up for Santa Fe.

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Wind Power!

'Coexist' bumper stickers have nothing on this elaborate chemical code … whatever it may mean.

Can anyone clue us in?

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New Mexico's strange and varied scrub

Ghost towns of New Mexico

According to New Mexico's Tourism Department, there are some 400 ghost towns in the state, mostly the remnants of abandoned mining towns. They're quick to point out, however – along with other guides to ghost town etiquette – that many of these towns still have plenty of residents, and it's always better to ask permission to explore.

Dawson: Less than 20 miles northeast of Cimarron, only the old cemetery remains of a mining town that suffered two disastrous mining explosions in the early years of the 20th century.

Shakespeare: Two miles south of Lordsberg, this little town enjoyed a massive silver boom in the 1870s – until a series of hoaxes and scams scared off most of the residents, and when a new railroad bypassed the town entirely, it never managed to recover. Privately owned, Shakespeare offers scheduled tours and such historical reenactments as Happy Bob Fambro's fatal barfight and the arrival of travelling showgirls.

Lake Valley: Another boom town gone bust in the 1890s, the last resident of Lake Valley departed in 1994, leaving a school, several houses and a number of wooden buildings that survived the little town's tough century.

Steins: In the southwest corner of New Mexico, the tiny town of Steins worked with the railroads until business ended in 1944. When the last train pulled through town, the residents were told to take whatever they could carry – and the ghost town's current caretakers have preserved the rest in all its ramshackle glory.

Montezuma Hot Springs

Curious about what Las Vegas, New Mexico must look like, we decided to check it out before heading on to Santa Fe. We had the Montezuma Hot Springs on our list, which was enthusiastically recommended by @HitTheRoad.ca. But this place is not easily found on Google Maps, or even to the naked eye.

After about 20 minutes of driving through and past town – and up a tiny mountain path on the side of a cliff – we stopped and asked for directions on the campus of United World College. The odd part about this area of New Mexico is that complete desert suddenly turns into mountains covered with pine trees; the campus of UWC looks a but like the Twin Peaks hotel as if it and the woods around it had been plopped into a small desert town.

Finally, we hopped over a highway guard rail as instructed, then came
upon three small hot spring pools.

We eased our way into one of the pools – not the best feeling at first in 93-degree heat – and chatted with David Gonzales, who was drinking beer out of an iced tea bottle and soaking his muscles. He drives about four hours each month for a lengthy soak in the springs. 

We asked him about New Mexico.

Known for: "There's not much here."

Best part: "You can breathe here."

The springs are a lovely roadside find, and the minerals from the water provide for a moisturizing skin soak. We reluctantly climbed out of the spring, swatted away aggressive horse flies and waved goodbye to David, who strolled off to refill his tea bottle.

Now we're only two hours behind schedule, perhaps the best time we've made all week. We'll be busy in Santa Fe as we only have tonight to see the town. On our hit list: Palace of Governors, Loretto Chapel and downtown Santa Fe.

We were going to try and reserve a room at La Fonda or Inn of the Governors, both of which seem like popular reader destinations, but alas, no room at the inn. We found vacancy at the El Rey Inn at the recommendation of gratefulred78, at $105 per night. At some point we'll take one of your recommendations for dinner for a green chile cheeseburger.

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While Katie's in search of bit of the Montezuma Hot Springs – once said to be so special that "even imaginary ailments give way before forces so potent for good" (the words of an 1898 travel guide) – here's a fitting bit of surreal LA space punk.

Thanks to trimphone below the line!

A hundred years after karma caught up with Billy the Kid, he's still behind bars … or at least his new tombstone is. 

Katie's visit to the lonely resting place of New Mexico's most famous outlaw has thinking about another great road trip possibility: know any good ghost towns?

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On the route to Santa Fe, we've been getting great tips from readers.

Though Katie won't be making the detour to Madrid ("a real jewel") as @spinner59 recommends, she may yet try the Frito Pie in Del Charro Saloon, and will likely peek into the Loretto Chapel and the Palace of the Governors.

@sethgarden has suggested the Bonanza Creek Ranch, an "all-inclusive" film location just south of Santa Fe, which has sets that include a pre-1800s fort, 1920s homestead, and, of course, a 19th century main street called "Movie Town".

@ElaineLiner, meanwhile, has warned of tumbleweeds "as big as your car", but we're hoping to see such a weed tumbling forever on Katie's next Vine. For now, just rolling on New Mexico's roads:

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#Meat your BBQ maker

While Katie's out on the road trying barbecue across the American southwest, you can join in tomorrow's Q&A here at the Guardian with Steven Raichlen, grillmaster extraordinaire and host of PBS's Primal Grill. 

Want to know the pros of wood or the cons of charcoal? How to grill bison? We're taking questions right now, so send them over to the Q&A!

Fort Sumner and a shackled grave

After stopping in at the Billy the Kid Museum in Fort Sumner, we were directed to yet another museum on the outskirts of town that houses the 'official' grave site of the famous outlaw.

Baking in the 100-degree sun, the grey graveled military cemetery looks like a really lonely place to spend eternity. In the middle is Billy the Kid's headstone, which rests under iron shackles to prevent thievery – the stone was stolen in 1950 and then again in 1981. Who knows if this is actually where the Kid is buried – locals took an educated guess after his original wooden marker washed away in a flood, shortly after his death at the hands of a local sheriff/bartender in 1881.

Museum employee and Tucumcari native Dana Moyer estimates that between 25,000 and 30,000 people from around the world visit the Old Fort Sumner Museum and adjoining cemetery each year. We then asked Moyer about New Mexico. 

Known for: "Probably the Old West, I'd say." 

Best part: "It's got a lot of different landscape. It's got mountains, it's got desert, it's got lakes. It's got a little bit of \ different stuff." 

We threw a few coins on the Kid's grave, then stopped at a gas station in town to fill up and grab green chile mini-burritos. Now we're on the road to Las Vegas. Some trivia about the town: Las Vegas has architecture for a southwest town. There are more than 900 buildings of every style on the National Register of Historic Places.

We'll be checking out the Montezuma Hot Springs at the recommendation of @HitTheRoad.ca, then speeding on to Santa Fe, where we'd hoped to be in 20 minutes. Not happening.

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Our intrepid team meets some of the more wild inhabitants of the wi-fi-less west:

An eclectic mix of new and old, with some reader-prompted selections and a link to New Mexico in every song:

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Billy the Kid

We are just arriving in Fort Sumner to check out Billy the Kid's final resting place at the recommendation of several of you - meganeaves, MichaelOKTX and NewMexicoLinnet.

Billy the Kid (aka William H Bonney but born William Henry McCarty Jr in 1881 to Irish immigrants) is one of the best-known outlaws the American Wild West. On one hand, the Kid is known as a thief and murderer, but his gregarious personality, hardscrabble upbringing and baby face has secured him a place in folk hero lore as well.

He was shot to death by a local sheriff at the age of 21, but was allowed a wake before his burial one day later. Interestingly, the exact whereabouts of the Kid's grave are unknown as a flood washed away his original headstone.

We've just pulled up to the Billy the Kid museum to learn more.

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And here's the perfect slow, sultry soundtrack to go with those pictures, courtesy of bristela who has been DJing for us all week. Nice timing!

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Hotter than...

As we've experienced difficulties with wifi over the past couple of days, and couldn't bring you pictures as quickly as we'd have liked, we thought we'd make the most of the munificence of the ethernet gods today and share some of the New Mexico scenery that Katie and the crew are driving through. Enjoy.

Though, as one of our local experts so eloquently put it, it is "hotter than Satan's butt crack" out there in summer. Any other striking phrases to describe the New Mexico heat spring to mind?

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Another tip for Santa Fe lodging has just landed from Rebeccaincornwall, who suggests the Hotel Santa Fe, "the only hotel in Santa Fe owned by Native Americans! And it's really nice."

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We're still about 70 miles south of Fort Sumner, but before I forget, this photo of Sarah's is worth sharing. Can you spot the still-visible moon in the blue skies over Roswell?

Nice tips for a day in Santa Fe from izziek - from breakfast to shopping and "the bonkers and brilliant Museum of International Folk Art". We salute you.

Tipster @scott_raven warned us against a possible scorpion sighting at Bottomless Lakes:

Luckily, we didn't see any. But our education from Bear Trap McGee tells us a bark scorpion sting would only set us on fire for a few days, anyway.

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Bottomless Lakes and NM's best things

We're leaving Bottomless Lakes State park, and we're so glad we made the detour. The drive from Roswell to the park is met with stunning views of New Mexico's landscape, which is mostly brown under a bright blue sky.

Inside the park itself, Lea Lake has a large recreation area, paddle posts and foam surfboards. Sadly, we don't have time do any of the three, but taking in the gorgeous view - again, brown rock against bright blue water and sky - was reason enough reason to visit. (And we dipped our toes.)

While here, I decided to adapt the set of questions I've been posing Texans - misconceptions and truths - to New Mexico residents.

We asked lifeguard Hannah Freeman, 18, what her state was most known for, and also about the best thing about New Mexico.

Known for: "Green chile."
Best thing: "The Mexican food."

We asked Chris Villeneauve, 20, the same thing.

Known for: "Our green chile."
Best thing: "Probably this lake right here. It's our little desert beach we got."

Next stop: Fort Sumner to see Billy the Kid's grave. It's a popular reader recommendation.

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Great tip from NewMexicoLinnet, who has been doing us proud with helpful tips all through:

For Santa Fe hotels, you'll want at least to get a drink in La Fonda. It's where Robert Oppenheimer and the other WW2 physicists had some R&R while building The Bomb up the hill in Los Alamos. Martin Cruz Smith's "Stallion Gate" does a nice job of telling the story in fictional form.

Tippage

Thanks to gratefulred78, who has offered some Santa Fe tips in the comments. He suggests Ten Thousand Waves - "a Japanese style spa in the mountains just north of town" - and the El Rey Inn "a well-maintained old-school motor court-style motel a few miles down Cerillos Road from the Plaza". 

Anyone stayed at these? Any other recommendations? To the usual places - @KatieRogers, #TwiTrips, or down below

gratefulred78 adds:

A meal at The Shed or La Choza is mandatory - they're sister restaurants. The Coyote Cafe Rooftop Cantina is a great place for a drink afterwards - try the prickly pear margarita.

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Whacky Maccy D

What's it like to live in Roswell? We asked our hotel concierge about what it's like to live in a town known for aliens.

"It's better to be known for something than for nothing," he said with a shrug.

Can't argue with that.

We checked out of Candlewood Suites ($104 per night) and went to eat
inside the metal UFO at the local McDonald's in Roswell. Underwhelming. And while I'm sure it's not the biggest or best imitation UFO the town has to offer, it was about as much lore as we could handle so early in the day.

We have roughly 259 miles to drive today before we get to Santa Fe - compared with the 410 we drove yesterday, this is a piece of cake.

On the way to Fort Sumner (84 miles), we've stayed true to form and decided to take a short detour to visit the Bottomless Lakes State Park just outside Roswell at the recommendation of @Scott_Raven.

Bottomless Lakes was New Mexico's first state park, and the lakes, which
are actually sinkholes, range from 17ft to 90ft deep.

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New Mexico mix

While Katie's waiting for her breakfast order, let's start the day sunny side up with a playlist chosen by our friends at Santa Fe independent online radio station IndieSF.com.

As ever, we'd like to make a readers' mix of tunes by artists associated with NM, so please leave your requests below the line.

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Nanoo Nanoo Roswell

Hello and welcome to day four of our journey from Austin to Albuquerque. We crossed into New Mexico from Texas last night and are in the city of Roswell, best known for a 1947 crash that involved an unidentified flying object.

As you might've guessed, the town is decked in an alien theme - even the street lights look like little green men. We actually haven't received many tips for this town, so we'll grab breakfast at the UFO-themed McDonald's (thanks usaprofessor5) and be on our way.

First stop: Fort Sumner to see Billy the Kid's grave, on GuardianWitness user MichaelOKTX and reader NewMexicoLinnet's recommendation.

Then it's on to the the Montezuma Hot Springs in Las Vegas, New Mexico, recommended by @HittheroadCA. At one time, Las Vegas was known as the roughest town in the west; 30 people were killed in a 30-day period in the town's 1880 heyday. Most recently, the Coen brothers' No Country for Old Men was filmed there.

• We won't be able to visit Georgia O'Keefe's ranch like some of you recommended, but we'll plan to visit her museum in Santa Fe; it's open until 5pm, so we'll try our best to be on schedule, which would be a first.

• Late lunch and then, later, dinner in Santa Fe. Plenty of readers have recommended food spots for us here, so we'll leave it up to you to decide our lunch and dinner plans and sort out the options in the comments. The list: The Shed,La Choza, Horseman's Haven Cafe, Bobcat Biteand Maria's New Mexican Kitchen.

Still needed: Overnight stay options in Santa Fe. We've received one recommendation so far, from Lauren Modery, for the Inn of the Governors, but are open to more options.

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