In many ways, Marc Wilkinson's Merseyside roots go deep. He returned, eight years ago to launch his Wirral restaurant Fraiche, and he remains keen that it should be an expression of the area – even the bespoke art and the water glasses are by locals (Jenny Barker and Charlie Macpherson).

Wilkinson works with the traditional New Ferry butcher Edge & Son, and has a grower who coaxes wild strawberries and oyster leaves for him from the fertile soil around Wallasey. And the banana parfait is modelled on the Superlambanana: "That sculpture – [which] represents the docks, because of the import of sheep and bananas – was about the strongest image of Liverpool I could find."

Yet, equally, Wilkinson – whose key influences are Pierre Gagnaire and Ferran Adrià – is a complete one-off, a global talent who just happens to be operating on a scouse stage. His style is mercurial, inventive. Yes, he loves molecular gastronomy, its liquid nitrogen theatre, and its witty sleights of hand (a sweetcorn mousse remoulded to look like actual corn cobs). But what is unarguably different, is that, until recently, Wilkinson was a one-man band. Fraiche is tiny, 16 covers, but even so it is almost unheard of for someone to cook Michelin star food, alone.

There is usually a three-month waiting list at Fraiche, and it isn't cheap (set-menu dinner £65, Sunday lunch £35) but, if you do bag a table, you are guaranteed a world-class experience, unique to Merseyside.

• Restaurant Fraiche (11 Rose Mount, Oxton, Wirral, 0151 652 2914, restaurantfraiche.com).