Nice may be the unofficial capital of the Côte d'Azur but it tends to get overshadowed by its noisy, glamorous neighbour Cannes – and more recently Marseille, which is European Capital of Culture 2013. But beyond the grand hotels that line the Promenade des Anglais, Nice has been changing too, with a host of alternative artistic ventures that range from offbeat exhibition spaces to arty places to stay, while creative restaurants are opening up alongside those specialising in traditional Niçoise cooking.

La Moma B&B

La Moma is a sprawling Belle Époque-mansion that Peter Larsen and Valérie Arboireau have converted into a bohemian cultural centre that houses its own ateliers, artist workshops, a performance space and two funky B&B rooms. Larsen is a Norwegian artist while Arboireau designs interior decor, and the whole house is furnished with their work. There is a lovely garden where breakfast is served, and the only downside is that bathrooms are separate from the bedrooms. It's worth noting that the room rate here does not change throughout the year.
• 5 Avenue des Mousquetaires, moma-nice.com, doubles €90 B&B (Wi-Fi included)

Hotel Windsor

Located two minutes' walk from the Promenade des Anglais and the Baie des Anges, the Windsor has been a popular hotel for more than a century. But since Odile Payen-Redolfi took over this family business she has turned it into a hip address for avant garde artlovers. Each year a contemporary artist is invited to create the decor for a different room, there are paintings and sculptures in the lobby, garden, bar and restaurant, while even the lift is an installation that recreates a rocket launch. The lush tropical garden also has a small pool, while on the top floor there is a spa with hamman, sauna and massage rooms.
• 11 Rue Dalpozzo, +33 4 9388 5935, hotelwindsornice.com, doubles from €97 in low season, €128 in high season. Breakfast €13. Free Wi-Fi

La Maison Abandonee (Villa Cameline)

In between the seafront and the exclusive Cimiez neighbourhood up in the hills, the area around Nice's grandiose but crumbling Gare du Sud and its lively morning market is being redeveloped and one cultural centre stands out: a sumptuous turn-of-the-century mansion, closed-up for 15 years. It has been left in its abandoned status and handed over to artists to use the space for installations and performances that take over all the rooms, including the kitchen, bathroom and bedrooms. The Maison is part of a Nice's dynamic contemporary arts association, Botoxs (botoxs.fr), which organises exhibitions all over town in alternative spaces that range from an old petrol station to Matisse's atelier in the 1930s, and will soon feature the city's ancient abattoir.
• 43 Avenue Monplaisir, villacameline.fr

L'art Dans La Ville

There is no better way to get around Nice than on the modern tram, and every Friday night visitors can join a guided tour that combines a trip round the city while a guide explains – in French and English – the 13 monumental sculptures, many bewitchingly illuminated, that spread all over town. Nice already boasts two of France's top museums, dedicated to Matisse and Chagall, and this open-air museum of contemporary art features the works of international artists such Ben (Vautier), Jaume Plensa and Yann Kersalé.
• Guided visit and tram ticket €10, reservations Office de Tourisme, 5 Promenade des Anglais, nicetourisme.com

Restaurant Aphrodite

David Faure is a talented young chef whose experiments in molecular cuisine have earned him a Michelin star for this cool, elegant restaurant. While he may be inspired by the likes of Heston Blumenthal and Ferran Adrià, Faure brings another element to the table, his sense of theatre and showmanship, as those that choose one of the tasting menus get treated to the chef himself spectacularly preparing his mystical molecular recipes in front of them. The dishes certainly sound strange – nitro-dragon de pissaladière, oeuf au plat au virtuel – but he uses outstanding products and the surprising tastes are delicious. The menu dégustation start at €40.
• 10 Boulevard Dubouchage, +33 4 9385 6353, restaurant-aphrodite.com, open Tue-Sat 12-1.30pm, 7.30pm-9.30pm

La Merenda

This hole-in-the-wall diner is an absolute must to savour traditional Niçois cooking. Just by the bustling food market in Cour Saleya, the Merenda has a small menu of dishes that change with the seasons, using the freshest produce, cooked in the most simple way. Getting a table is never easy, as there are only 18 seats and you have to pass by in person to book as there is no phone. Don't expect a romantic evening as tables are squeezed together with everyone sitting on tiny stools. Dominique Le Stanc cooks in a miniscule open kitchen and hearty main dishes such as tripes à la Niçoise and daube de boeuf Provençale are reasonably priced at €12.
• 4 Rue Raoul Bosio, cash only

Falabrac Fabrik

Tucked way down a narrow street in the mazelike Vieux Nice, Falabrac Fabrik is a local association dedicated to carbon-zero food, fashion and design, art and music. Its psychedelic headquarters doubles as a cafe and cantina, a cheap and cheerful bistro, which serves vegetarian during the week with a meat dish on Saturday. There is a fashion showroom for young local designers specialising in recycling and vintage, an art gallery, and an organic grocery at the back. You are meant to be a member of the association to come in but they tend to be very relaxed with interested tourists.
• 3 Rue Benoit Bunico, falabrac.fabrik.free.fr

Caprice

There are several chic, haute couture vintage boutiques in Nice, notably Mademoiselle (mademoiselle-nice.fr) but Caprice is a more fun showroom, specialising in outrageous 60s and 70s outfits, with a great range of accessories too: from lava lamps to giant Courrèges sunglasses and Lanvin handbags. Ten minutes' walk away, it also has a shop, Le Chéri de Caprice (6 Rue Martin Seytour, +33 4 9204 1360), dedicated to retro men's fashions and furnishings.
• 12 Rue Droite, +33 4 9380 0543, capricevintageshop.com

Cave De La Tour

For an authentic slice of local Niçois life there is no better idea than to pop in for an apéro at this brilliant winebar, which also serves a tasty dish of the day at lunchtime. There is always a noisy crowd discussing politics or the fortunes of Nice's football club, either sitting outside on the shady terrace or round the ancient zinc bar. Kati and Philippe are welcoming hosts, and this is the place to discover little-known regional wines such as Bellet, Villars-sur-Var, and Saint Jeannet.
• 3 Rue de la Tour, +33 4 9380 0331 cavedelatour.com, open Tue-Sat 7am-8pm, Sun 7am-12.30pm

Bar Rene Socca

No one should leave Nice without trying the famous Socca, a local take on pizza, but made with chickpea flour and olive oil. Many restaurants and street sellers in the old town sell this tasty snack but one look at the long queue snaking past René Socca will tell you this is an institution that attracts Nicois and tourists alike. It may feel a bit like an assembly line but you can takeaway or choose self-service, then sit down at rough wooden tables ordering a chilled carafe of Rosé to accompany the Socca, or other specialities including grilled sardines, deep-fried courgette flowers, or petits farcis, tomatoes, onions or peppers stuffed with meat and cheese.
• 2 Rue Miralheti, +33 4 9392 0573

• Nice Carnival runs 15 February-6 March 2013.