d.b.a
As recommended by blues and funk legend Ernie Vincent
This Frenchmen Street staple is a local favourite. The wood-panelled bar has a Caribbean shack vibe about it and there's an extensive craft beer list and whisky selection scribbled on the chalkboard. Music stars from country singer Jimmy Buffet to Stevie Wonder have graced the stage, as have bands such as Hot 8 Brass Band, who featured in Spike Lee's film When the Levees Broke. It's an intimate venue where the performers will share a drink with you between sets. The place is packed with locals of all ages, especially old rockers who've been coming here for years. Head to the dance floor and dance the night away.
• 618 Frenchmen Street, dbabars.com/dbano, open Mon-Thu 5pm-4 am; Fri-Sun 4 pm-5am, entry $5-$10
Snug Harbor Jazz Bistro
As recommended by composer and performer Harold Battiste Jr, who penned hits for Sam Cooke and set up the first black owned record label in the South, AFO records
Pull up at the bar for an authentic jazz experience with music legend Ellis Marsalis, who plays most Fridays and was inducted into the Louisiana Music Hall of Fame in 2008. Arrive early to enjoy the creole style food, from the Snug Harbor gumbo to a shrimp po-boy (a baguette filled with fried fish and a rich sauce). There are music greats on stage every night, such as Davell Crawford, "the Piano Prince of New Orleans", who is a regular crowd puller. The two-level seating makes it easy to watch the TV screens at the bar, or upstairs where it's happening live. The building's allure lays in its rustic charm, with wooden chairs and signs, a world away from the neon lights and cheesy cover bands that are found a few blocks up on Bourbon Street.
• 626 Frenchmen Street, Snugjazz.com, open 5pm- closing time, entry $10-15
Irvin Mayfield Jazz Playhouse
As recommended by trombonist Glen David Andrews who was born and raised on traditional jazz in Treme
Duck under the hotel's traditional southern-style balconies with French shutter windows and head into this charming, dim-lit lounge bar. While the Playhouse is only about four years old, the land dates back to the 1700s, and it's quite fitting that it used to be a brewery.
The Grammy award-winning trumpeter who plays here, Irvin Mayfield, co-owns the bar and even though it's on Bourbon Street it's unlike most of its neighbouring bars, with their cheesy cover bands and cheap drink deals. If you get here early, head for the best seats right by the edge of the stage, where you can see the baby grand piano up close. If Irvin's not in town, don't worry, local up-and-coming artists as well as legends like the Leroy Jones Quintet play here. The performers rarely take breaks, so you are encouraged to tip well, which you won't mind because there is no cover, but there is a one-drink minimum. Also, the no-cover fee can make it tricky to get a seat sometimes, but you can always head to the mini dance floor by the stage. The décor-rich, dramatic draped maroon curtains help make the show feel intimate and the performers love to chat – this is not a stuffy venue.
• Royal Sonesta Hotel, 300 Bourbon Street, irvinmayfield.com. Open for live music seven days a week, from 8pm
VASO club
As recommended by singer Zena Moses, born and raised in New Orleans
Come for the music. This venue is located on the corner of Frenchmen Street, which is packed with great music bars frequented by locals. It hosts the Thursday residency for the band - Zena Moses and Rue Fiya, who play a mix of soul, funk and blues. It's a large space, with French windows that open on to the street so the blend of sounds from the green back-lit stage pour out. Inside it's a crumbling, exposed brick wall venue where local musicians offer a mixed bag of sounds from rap to jazz – like the city's gumbo you never know what flavour you will get on any given night. Better still, it has no cover charge.
• 500 Frenchmen Street, no website, open daily 11am-3pm then Wed 9pm-3am. Thurs 8pm-3am, Fri- 6pm-4.30am, Sat 7pm- 4.30am
A second line parade
As recommended by Nine Times Social & Pleasure Club, a 9th Ward musical community group
Locals need no excuse to party; the regular year-long second lines and parades are a great example of this. Set up by various social aid and pleasure clubs, the parades that travel through different designated areas of the city are all about singing and dancing. Each club has a colour, decorated parasols and plume feathers which are waved alongside the brass bands, followed by hundreds of revellers. The second line parades also reinforce a real sense of community. This specific club goes through the Ninth Ward, raising funds for rebuilding efforts while putting on an amazing show.
• Upcoming Parades include: Treme Sidewalk Steppers Parade on Sun 17 Feb from 2pm-4pm and Cross The Canal Steppers Parade Sun 24 Feb from 12pm-4pm. For more information on the parades and route directions visit wwoz.org/new-orleans-community/inthestreet
