Tostadas: Tostadas de Coyoacán

In the middle of the folkloric Coyoacán market, once the haunt of Frida Kahlo, you'll find gastronomic art at Tostadas de Coyoacán. Tostadas are deep-fried corn tortillas with a heap of something good on top. This bustling and colourful stall offers more than a dozen huge plates of mouthwatering toppings. Fresh shrimp prepared with tomato and chilli, chicken in brick-red salsa, crab salad, pork in chocolate-y mole, and the list goes on. Start with a succulent lemony ceviche, topped with bright green salsa, then move on to pulpo (octopus), then, perhaps, cochinita pibil, tangy pulled pork from the Yucatán. To drink, order an agua de frutas – literally fruit water– in melon, say, or pineapple, from the stand next door.
• Inside the Mercado Coyoacán, at Calle Malintzin, between Aguayo & Allende, a short walk from Coyoacán's central plaza, open daily 9am-7pm

Seafood: El Caguamo

El Caguamo (the name is slang for a litre beer bottle) is a simple tin shack on the sidewalk in the historic centre of the city, and it's the best place in the city for fresh seafood. It's packed with young fans and old-timers alike, downing deep-fried fish fillets, shrimp cocktails, tostadas and ceviches. Served in a parfait glass or on a crisp fried corn tortilla, ceviches are salads of fish, crab, squid or octopus, marinated in lime juice and white herbal vinegar, then finished off with a little olive oil and a few slices of avocado, chopped tomato, chilli, onion and coriander. The simple dressing compliments the seafood without overwhelming it – a perfect balance of salty, sour, and fishy umami.
• Calle Ayuntamiento, near López, a few blocks south of the Alameda, Centro, open Mon-Sat, approximately 11am-6pm

Tacos al pastor: El Huequito

The most chilango (slang for 'from Mexico City') food of all, tacos al pastor are the perhaps the only dish truly associated with capital itself. El Huequito (which means the little hole-in-the-wall) has been in business since 1959 in the old centre. These tacos, the legacy of the city's many Lebanese immigrants, a variation of shawarma, the grilled marinated meat dish popular throughout the Middle East. Here pork, thinly sliced, is swathed in a chilli sauce, roasted on a revolving spit, sliced off, enhanced with chopped onion and coriander, and rolled up in a small tortilla. The meat is juicy and succulent, the smoky grilled aroma lingering until you take the next bite. These 12-peso morsels are pure corazón Mexicano (heart of Mexico).
• Ayuntamiento 21, a few blocks south of the Alameda, Centro, open daily, 8am-10pm

Tacos de guisados: Taquería El Guero (Hola)

Guisados are saucy stews with a thousand variations. Mexicans love them wrapped in a fragrant soft corn tortilla. This small standing-room-only taquería, identified on its awning with the single word "HOLA", is renowned locally, a favourite of Condesa hipsters. Unusually for Mexico, several vegetarian choices are offered. Try the quelites (cooked leafy greens), acelgas (Swiss chard) or coliflór (fried cauliflower.) The protocol is to order one at a time, and save your plate for more. The aguas frescas (fresh fruit drinks) are very refreshing.
• Avenida Amsterdam 135, near Michoacán, Condesa, open Mon-Sat 11am- 6pm

Tortas: Tortas Been

The torta, Mexico's version of the sandwich, is quintessentially Mexico City. It's a fast food that blends European and Mexican cultures. The story goes that it was invented by one Sr Armando, an Italian immigrant, as his riff on the Italian panino – he adapted it to available ingredients and the locals' penchant for avocado and chilli. Tortas Been is located inside an odd pasaje, or indoor passage, which is also home to several stores selling Mexican folkloric costumes. The tortas de pierna (roast pork leg), pollo (chicken) or pavo ahumado (smoked turkey) are worth the 10-minute walk from the Zócalo. Their secret is the sour cream, applied to the roll, adding extra calories but rich flavour.
• Inside the pasaje at República del Salvador 152, a few blocks east of the Zócalo, Centro, open Mon-Sat until about 6.30pm

Carnitas: La Reina de la Roma

"But eet ees confit!" a French friend exclaimed when shown a pit where carnitas were slowly roasting in their own fat. Appropriately named "little meats", carnitas are tender shredded bits of pork, from all parts of the pig, eaten as tacos. They're unceremoniously served heaped on a plate, with an array of red and green salsas, coriander, onions and lime; and fresh warm corn tortillas, of course. The roasted aroma of these porky treats emanates from La Reina de la Roma, a simple fonda with a few tables spilling on to the street, in the old Colonia Roma neighborhood, near its interesting central market. Ask for maciza if you don't care for the fatty bits.
• Campeche 106 (in front of the Mercado Medellín), Colonia Roma, open Tues-Sun 9am-6pm

Pozole: Pozole Doña Yoli

Pozole is the ultimate Mexican comfort food.  It is a hearty meat broth, laced with chilli and loaded with hominy, known as cacahuazintle in Mexico. A one-dish meal, it is served with sides of tostadas, avocado, onion, radishes, lime wedges, chilli powder and oregano to be sprinkled on as the diner wishes. Doña Yoli, a humble operation, has been doling out luscious red pozole for decades. The rich broth contains pork, maize, all the trimmings described above, and good tostadas are served on the side. It's a great stop before or after a visit to the wonderful Museo de San Ildefonso (sanildefonso.org.mx) next door.
• Calle San Ildefonso 42, (upstairs in the commercial plaza) north of the Zócalo, open Mon-Sat, 12-6pm

Grilled meat tacos: Los Parados 

This corner hangout is open all day but is particularly popular late at night. It does the best tacos al carbon (meats cooked over coals on an open grill) in town. Costilla (ribs), arrachera (beefsteak), chorizo, chicken – they've got it all here. Salsas are homemade, beautiful and powerful. Mexican-style burgers (topped with salsa, bacon, cheese) are sensational. Customers from all walks of life happily devour their succulent char-roasted morsels of goodness, while downing ice-cold beer or horchata, a milky-looking drink made from rice.
• Monterrey 333, corner of Baja California, Colonia Roma, open daily, morning til the wee hours

Late-night tacos: El Borrego Viudo

This legendary end of the party taquería specialises in the aforementioned tacos al pastor, as well as tacos de cabeza (beef head) and suadero (thin-cut beef brisket or breast). They're served with tepache, an old- fashioned, lightly fermented but non-alcoholic pineapple juice drink. If you are driving, there's an enormous garage where you can park and eat – good for a late-night/early morning snack accompanied by other semi-conscious revellers.
• Av. Revolución 241, corner of Viaducto, Colonia Tacubaya, open daily 24 hours

Flautas: Puesto de Flautas

 Flautas are elongated rolled corn tortillas, hence the name, which means flute. They're filled with potatoes, chicken, cheese or barbacoa (roast lamb), deep-fried golden-crisp, topped with sour cream and salsa verde, then sprinkled with grated queso fresco (white cheese) and shredded lettuce. For reasons unknown, flautas are usually served with caldo de gallina, a chicken soup better than any Jewish grandmother could make. Exemplary flautas are put out by the simply named Puesto de Flautas stand in the fashionable art-deco Condesa neighbourhood. Business is so good that they have expanded into the facing storefront. A chilled mango Boing! is the perfect accompaniment.
• West side of Calle Chilpancingo, fourth from the corner of Baja California by the metro Chilpancingo stop, Condesa, open Mon-Sat for lunch

Nicholas Gilman is a food journalist based in Mexico City since 1998. He is the author of Good Food in Mexico City: A Guide to Food Stalls, Fondas and Fine Dining, goodfoodmexicocity.com