The origins of Denmark kro inns date back to the 13th century when King Erik Klipping grew weary of finding food and lodging for his men, and decreed that for every mile of land travelled, there should be an inn as a staging post to provide decent food and drink and a place to rest.
Many still exist, easily spotted by their downy thatch roofs and often half-timbered walls, and are nestled away in some of the country's more remote areas – making them a good choice of accommodation if you're planning to explore the remarkably flat Danish countryside independently.
Some kro still offer no-frills accommodation and rustic, carb-heavy cuisine. But for many, a transformation has taken place. Interiors have been upgraded to take advantage of the country's world-famous furniture. And with Denmark currently in the grip of a gastronomic renaissance, for many kro it's all about the food. I visited some of the best.
Henne Kirkeby Kro
Hidden among the heathlands of west Jutland, this boutique-style inn was recently updated to appeal to hip, young urbanites. With its redbrick walls and hobbit-like doors, from the outside it resembles a quaint but ordinary farmhouse. But step inside and prepare to be wowed; in each of the five individually designed rooms, you'll find plush beds, moody lighting and mirrored glass sliding doors that conceal ultra-modern washrooms. Run by Michelin-starred, ex-pat Brit chef and local celebrity Paul Cunningham, the kro houses an impressive collection of contemporary photography. In the enormous back garden, resident chefs gather herbs, vegetables and roots to be used in fancy Nordic-inspired dishes such as Fænø pheasant with herbs, corn and barley.
• +45 7525 5400, hennekirkebykro.dk. Open from 24 March to end of December, doubles from around £145 B&B, closed all year Sun-Tue. Four-course lunch around £45
Nørre Vissing Kro
After 10 years of working in some of Copenhagen's most prestigious restaurants, chef Morten Mygind decided to move to the country to create a kro that would be as famous for its food as its accommodation. Modernised in 2008, the inn is on the edge of the stunning Danish Lake District in central Jutland. Recipes are created from ingredients sourced from the surrounding forests and lakes as well as flowers plucked from his own back garden. I sampled a four-course menu which included crab with fennel and green pea stack and salmon with sour cream, melon and lavender oil. Each dish looked like a work of art.
• +45 8694 3716, nr-vissing-kro.dk. Doubles from £100. Four-course lunch around £55
The Nørby Kro
Set within a 300-year-old parish farm on the sleepy, windswept island of Fanø, the emphasis at Nørby Kro is on tradition and quality, with the simple white and olive coloured complex housing an impressive-looking restaurant and a wine cellar with up to 3,000 bottles of wine. I stayed in a suite – an extremely comfy two-room apartment with squishy white sofas, a spa-like bathroom and an open fireplace.
• +45 7516 3589, noerbykro.dk. Doubles £106, including breakfast
Sønderho Kro
Sønderho was founded in 1722, and the owners told me proudly that this kro, at the southern end of the island of Fanø, is the oldest in Denmark still in its original building. Everything from the imposing grandfather clock to the original 18th-century decorative tiles that line the restaurant walls serve to give this place the snug and cosy ambience of a ship's cabin. The restaurant has a long tradition in offering gourmet cuisine and its four-course menu – which includes lightly salted codfish, glazed fennel and marcona almonds – all make full use of the island's raw ingredients. At the time of my visit, the restaurant was heaving with locals and tourists. Especially entertaining was the raucous group of sixtysomethings celebrating 25 years of playing bridge together with a lavish meal accompanied by wine-fuelled song.
• +45 7516 4009, sonderhokro.dk. Half-board from £117pp
The trip was provided by the Danish tourist board. Find out more about kros inns on its website, visitdenmark.com. The flight was provided by Ryanair (ryanair.com), which flies to Billund from Stansted and Edinburgh. Stansted Express (stanstedexpress.com) provided rail transfer from London
