Distance 10 miles (16km)
Classification Challenging
Duration 5 hours
Begins Llanwrthwl church
OS grid reference SN977638
Walk in a nutshell
An exploration of the eastern side of the wild Abergwesyn Commons along an imposing horseshoe of mountains. Starting at the small village of Llanwrthwl, the route follows a path up to the summit of Trembyd mountain. It crosses a saddle to Drum Ddu before heading downhill to Rhos Saith-maen (Seven Stone Moor). It gains height once more to take on Y Gamrhiw mountain before following a long ridge and dropping down into Llanwrthwl again.
Why it's special
The majority of the walk is on narrow mountain paths heading out bravely over moorland and occasional areas of peat bog (so bring those waterproof boots). Along the way it offers up some truly spectacular views of the Cambrian mountains, the so‑called "Roof of Wales".
Keep your eyes peeled for
Trembyd mountain – it's large and it's the first mountain you'll climb, so there are no points for spotting this one. Trembyd is the Welsh for "View of the world" and as you walk up the bridleway to the 475-metre summit, feel free to take as many breaks as you like to appreciate the vistas of the Wye Valley below and beyond. However, hold on to that picnic until you've reached the cairn on the top of Drum Ddu – it's an ideal location for lunch since it protects you from the prevailing south-westerly wind. There are three cairns on the summit of Y Gamrhiw – the largest of these was used by the home guard as a lookout point and shelter during the second world war.
Recover afterwards
Head for Llandrindod Wells and Jules Restaurant and Wine Bar where there's a good selection of food, from light bites to more substantial offerings and, more importantly, cocktails with which to celebrate the day's hiking. It's not always about the ale …
If it's tipping down
Try the National Cycle Collection at Llandrindod Wells. It has around 250 bikes on display, including a "reversible velocipede" from 1870 (pictured), boneshakers, hobby horses, penny-farthings and 21st-century carbon-fibre racing machines.
How to get there
Take the train to Llandrindod Wells station then catch the 47 bus to Llanwrthwl.
Step by step
1 Starting from the church in Llanwrthwl, follow the minor road that runs down the left-hand side of the graveyard. Carry on for about 2 miles until you reach a fork in the road. Take the right-hand fork and go through the wooden gate. You'll see the National Trust sign for Trembyd mountain on the right.
2 Follow the gravel track for about 1 mile. Take the bridleway cutting up and across the hill on your right until you reach a dry-stone wall and gate at the top. Turn right and head for the summit of Trembyd mountain.
3 From here head towards Drum Ddu. Once across the saddle, cut diagonally left up the hillside until you reach the top, and walk along the path to the cairn at Drum Ddu. Follow the path along the ridge for about 400m then take the track heading off to the right down towards Rhos Saith-maen.
4 Cross the track that runs over Rhos Saith-maen and follow the path to the bottom of Y Gamrhiw, then take the track that cuts left across the hill to the old building at the top. From here turn right and take the path to the summit that goes from the left-hand side of the building. The summit cairn is on the right, just before the trig point.
5 From there follow the ridge towards Llanwrthwl. As you reach the end of the ridge you need to pick up the zigzag path that goes down to and through the woodland above Dol-lago Farm. Then follow the signs that take you right and down to the farm track that leads to the road. Turn left then at the T-junction turn right and follow the road back to the church.
