A long-distance walk in the Gower, Glamorgan

Day one provides a pleasant, wooded section that gives way to a bracing walk with broad sea views along beautiful beaches. Day two offers an intriguing mix of secret, woody coves and breezy headlands
  
  

Gower Peninsula
Rhossili village and bay on the Gower Peninsula of South Wales. Photograph: Alamy Photograph: Alamy

Distance 39 miles (64km)
Classification Challenging
Duration 18 hours over two days
Begins Crofty
Ends Bishopston
OS grid refs SS529951, SS578893

Walk in a nutshell
Day one provides a pleasant, wooded section that gives way to a bracing walk with broad sea views along beautiful beaches. Day two offers an intriguing mix of secret, woody coves and breezy headlands. The last section of the walk is on the river bed, so be prepared for a 400m paddle – or wade.

Why it's special
Three varying landscapes: peaceful woodland, brisk beaches, mysterious coves. The secluded coves such as Pwll Du Bay really were used to smuggle tobacco and alcohol in the 18th century.

Keep your eyes peeled for
Where to start? The UK's only cast-iron lighthouse at Whiteford Point; the medieval sea wall known as the Groose; Worms Head island; the 6,000-year-old burial chambers, Sweynes Howes, on Rhossili Down ... You should also watch out for Guzzle Hole, a cave where you can hear the river Bishopston Pill gurgling deep underground.

Stay overnight at
Prop up the bar and sup in the views before traipsing to bed at The Worm's Head Hotel.

Recover afterwards
There are three good local boozers in Bishopston: the Joiners Arms, The Valley, and the Beaufort Arms. After 39 miles, you may wish to sample all three.

If it's tipping down
The Dylan Thomas Centre in Swansea traces the story of Thomas's life from his terraced house in Swansea to his final days in New York. Pore over the memorabilia and don't miss the readings on CD, featuring the inimitable Richard Burton and the voice of Thomas himself.

How to get there
The nearest train station to the start point is Swansea or Gowerton. The Gower Explorer buses 115, 116 and 119 also serve this route.

Step by step

Day one

1 From the centre of Crofty, head west on the coast road, past Wernffrwd on the B4295 to Llanrhidian. In the village bear right at a T-junction, then left, up and to the right of the church into woodland.

2 Follow paths to Landimore, turn right along a lane and bear left to pick up the coastal path again.

3 Just before North Hill Tor take the steep path up through woods, past North Hills Farm and through Cheriton. After the Britannia Inn, turn right down a path below Cwm Ivy Woods to the Groose.

4 At end of the Groose turn right and follow a path through sands and three thickets of conifers to Whiteford Point.

5 Turn south and walk across the beach to Broughton Burrows. Follow the path through Delvid Burrows to the campsite and follow coast path signs for Bluepool, dropping down through Llangennith Burrows to the beach. Walk due south for 1.5 miles. Look for a waymarker pointing across the dunes, which will drop you into a car park by a caravan site.

6 Walk up to Hillend by an entrance to the caravan site. Take the path up Rhossili Down. Keep along the ridge to Rhossili.

Day two

1 From Rhossili take the coast path past Mewslade Bay and Foxhole Slade.

2 Follow a coast path sign south to Overton Cliff. Bear left along the path to the Gower monument on Port Eynon Point.

3 Follow the coast path through Horton (there's no footpath up from the eastern end of Port Eynon Bay), above The Sands and on to Oxwich Point.

4 Keep to the outer path around Oxwich Point, which on its eastern side leads uphill through woods. Follow this path before dropping down a long staircase and past St Illtyd's church.

5 Cross the bay. At high tide you'll need to pick up the coast path behind Nicholaston Burrows via the bridge. Otherwise, walk in front of Little Tor and climb the path to the clifftop from the cove. At the top, drop down, heading north, to the beach.

6 At low tide you can walk across Three Cliffs Bay, otherwise you'll need to climb the steep path to Notthill and then drop down to the beach and cross via the stepping stones. Scramble up the dunes on the other side and follow paths towards the headland above Pobbles Beach and east again, keeping well to the south of the golf course.

7 Follow the headland path past Fox Hole and on to Pwlldu Head. The path contours around the top of the headland, drops steeply down and up to Pennard Farm. Follow a lane downhill from the farm and bear right in front of house, through woodlands to Pwlldu Bay.

8 Head up the valley, keeping to the left bank. Trails are muddy here, sometimes indistinct, but they soon become clear again. Follow paths first for Bishopston and Kittle, then for the church. If you don't fancy the river walk, where the river first disappears and you walk on the dry bed, take any of the signposted tracks for Bishopston via Long Ash Farm.

 

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