The way they tell it, Neil and Jane McNair became guesthouse owners on a whim. Visiting Wensleydale from London, they fell in love with a neglected water mill, bought it, then had to decide what to do with it. They had no previous with Bainbridge, a remote village in the Yorkshire Dales, no history in hospitality. It could have been a disaster.
Except that Neil, a carpenter, is experienced at renovating houses (very useful), and both have strong opinions about hotels. This is not an attempt to butter up Guardian Travel, they insist, but they used to regularly have weekends away following Sally Shalam's advice. In other words, they have been training for this for years.
It shows. Opened in September, Low Mill is a destination of memorable warmth and character. The building itself has huge charisma. This old flour mill's grindstones, for instance, form a centrepiece in the guests' lounge. Neil has restored the water wheel too, repainting it in West Ham colours. It all works. The cogs and pulleys run up into the exposed eaves in the huge Workshop bedroom, where I stayed.
The mill backs on to the River Bain, reputedly Britain's shortest. In January, the riverside garden was decorated with gnarled icicles. Beyond, the almost lunar Dales stretch into the distance. It is prime walking country, if not the liveliest destination. On a Monday night, the local pub had shut by 10pm. It was worth venturing out, however, on a clear night, just to see the stars.
The Workshop is the most expensive of Low Mill's rooms, but all three are sizable and smoothly marry style, wit and practicality. A proper kettle that boils promptly; a flask of fresh milk and homemade biscuits; a log burner primed with paper and wood. Such details turn a good-looking room into a great place to stay. There are even sheepskin rugs beside the bed (a superb six-footer with crisp cotton sheets), so you don't step directly on to the wooden floor. On a subzero night, vintage cast-iron radiators keep it seductively cosy.
Not only does the room "work", it also looks fantastic. A handsome canvas of exposed stone walls and old mill gearing has been judiciously dressed with antique pieces, including a freestanding copper bath, and humorous modern objects. A large pottery bulldog guards the fire.
Crucially, the McNairs are easy-going, affable hosts. A guesthouse is an intimate space, impossible to enjoy if the vibe is stiff and diffident. After my evening meal (two courses, £17.50; impressive dinner-party cooking), I settled down in the lounge with a beer from nearby micro the Yorkshire Dales Brewing Co (£2.50), and watched Man City beat Wigan. It was like being at home, only better.
Breakfast seals the deal: greaseless, great local ingredients, the flavours (plain pork sausage, moderately spiced black pudding) correctly modulated for the morning. I left, but reluctantly. Low Mill is a truly great escape.
• Tony travelled from Manchester to Garsdale with Northern Rail (0845 000 0125, northernrail.org)
• For more information on Yorkshire, visit yorkshire.com
