Heladería La Fiorentina
If there is any place where you can taste Seville, then it is this heladería, which has gained press attention both nationally and internationally for its innovative creations, and was featured in the TV series, Rick Stein's Spain. Joaquín Liria has created ice-creams based on some of the city's most prominent scents: springtime's crema de flor de azahar (cream of orange blossom) and dulce de romero (rosemary), plus the favourite dulce de palmera for Holy Week. There is even one that tastes of sherry – Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda! It's hard to choose a favourite: I love dulce de chirimoya (custard apple), which is only available towards the end of summer when the fruit is most flavoursome, and the caramely dulce de pestiño, based on another sweet typical of Holy Week.
• Calle Zaragoza 16, +34 954 221550, heladerialafiorentina.com
Casa Anselma
The last time I visited Anselma the shutters were down and the mosaics above the door read Comestibles (groceries), not Casa Anselma. People were spilling out onto the road and the faint rociero melody was interrupted intermittently by loud outbursts of "Come back at two, it's full" from a stout, black-clad woman in the entrance way, stopping the hordes from trying to squeeze in. This was Anselma herself.
The crowds realised that there was no space for them and dispersed, heading to bars recommended by Anselma: "They sing as well as we do, but you must come back at two." My friend and I held tight and she eventually beckoned us in.
The room was stuffy, packed with small Gypsy-style, hand-painted tables. In the corner at the front was the choir, a coro rociero, who sing homage to the Virgen del Rocío. They performed upbeat bulerías and sevillanas to which a pair danced.
An hour into the show (at around 1am) Anselma shouted to the audience: "Stop dancing, I want to sing!" and shimmied through the crowds to do what she knows best. She had a powerful copla voice.
The mostly Spanish audience sang along at the end of the show, as Anselma belted out some classic tunes. But even without knowing a word of Spanish, I am sure you would still be blown away by the atmosphere and Anselma's cheeky charm!
• Calle Pagés del Corro 49, Triana, +34 606 162502
La Huerta Mediterranea
Meaning vegetable garden in Spanish, La Huerta, offers just that. Lots of veggie tapas – you can even find croquettes free of ham (choose either cauliflower or pesto). Tapas range between €2-3; three tapas and four drinks (for two people) was about €20. It's a great summer dining option as there's plenty of outdoor seating and other tapas bars nearby (including the infamous El Rinconcillo) should you wish to make a little tour.
• Plaza de los Terceros 9, +34 655 270079
Rancho Pichilín, Matalascañas
A family-run chiringuito (beach-side bar) that's so well hidden it's pretty unknown even to most locals. There's no mains electricity – it runs on a generator – but it serves the freshest fish you can imagine and has view of blue skies and sea. The menu features regular dishes such as tomates aliñados (tomatoes with garlic, drenched in vinegar and olive oil), chips, fried eggs and green peppers but it's best to ask what the fisherman, the father of the family, managed to bag in his net that morning. Be sure to try the choco (cuttlefish) – I can guarantee it will be the biggest you've ever set your eyes on. The coquinas (small clams) are delicious too, and don't forget sardinas when they are in season (any month without "r" in Spanish).
This place is a little tricky to get to. Either park up near the Playa Rocío campsite and trek down the sandy slope, or walk about 2km along the beach from Matalascañas. It's open from April through summer.
Metropol Parasol
It's still not even on the map, but this towering lattice construction has kicked up quite a fuss in Seville.
Locally known as Las Setas (mushrooms), it houses an archaeological museum, the Antiquarium (Roman ruins were found when a car park was constructed some years ago), a regular market and a walkway offering vistas of the cathedral and the Cartuja. Swanky bars and restaurants are set to open shortly.
• Plaza de la Encarnación 18, +34954 56 15 12, espacio-metropol.com. Antiquarium entry and Pasarela (walkway) is €1.20
Hospital los Venerables
I stumbled upon this little gem of a museum/church/gallery, in the heart of the Santa Cruz barrio. Entry is free on Sundays from 4pm-8pm and you can enjoy one of the best preserved examples of a typical Seville patio and fountain. To the left is a small room housing paintings from Sevillano painters, including Velázquez. On the other side of the patio, behind a dark wooden door is the church. Unlike any other I have seen in Spain, it is decorated with ornate, colourful imagery on the walls and ceiling.
• Plaza Venerables 8, +34 954 564595, focus.abengoa.es/ingles/index2.htm. Entrance €4.75
Blanco Cerrillo
Blanco Cerrillo is one of the oldest bars in Seville. Very simple and no fuss – perfect for eating fried fish tapas. It gets very packed and the tables outside (and any convenient space to place a tapa and beer) are usually occupied. Once inside though, you can normally holler your order and then inch your way to the bar. It is equipped with a team of three or four older waiters who are constantly shouting out the orders to the kitchen crew. Something that I loved here before the smoking ban was that one of them had a little ciggy nooky-hole and would serve you and go back for a crafty drag every once in a while – now he swigs from a small bottle of Cruzcampo beer instead. Tapas are well priced at only €1.50 a pop.
• Calle Doctor Jiménez Díaz 16, +34 954 351008
El Rezón for arroz con pato
I really recommend heading 20 minutes away from the city to La Puebla del Río, to feast on their speciality arroz con pato (rice with duck). There are many restaurants that serve it, but the locals love the riverside, family-run El Rezón. The dish costs €8 per head and comes served in a casserole dish. If you are peckish try the tiny shrimps with roasted peppers and fried eggs or mejillones rellenos (filled mussels) for starters.
• Plaza Blas Infante, La Puebla del Rio, +34 955 771806
La Mar de Flores
La Mar de Flores is a small family-run florist/garden centre, literally on the family's doorstep. They have opened their front garden to all who wish to peruse the collection of plants they have on offer. All plants are interestingly presented: in shoes, bird cages, teacups, handbags and kettles.
• Alameda de Hercules 73, +34 954 374685
Bar Garlochí
You couldn't find a more intriguing watering hole than Bar Garlochí. It all starts with its name, which means heart in Gypsy language. The interior is lavish, chintzy and holy all at once. There are figures of the Virgin Mary and images of Christ in every corner. The bar is a popular haunt for the gay community and cheesy 70s Spanish tunes add to the atmosphere. Drinks are quite pricey though: €3 for a small bottle of beer. It's quite a popular tourist spot as it has featured heavily in the press over the years.
• Calle Boteros 26
