One of the most overt signs of the effect of Raul Castro's economic reform programme (which started to gather steam in late 2010) has been the opening of a wave of new private restaurants (paladares) around the country, especially in Havana, as well as the expansion and refurbishment of existing places. These vary from mom and pop operations to stylish new slick restaurants. This has radically altered the food landscape (in Havana at least) to such an extent that going to dinner is now a pleasure and not a chore, with a wealth of options serving decent food with buckets of ambience and good service.
San Cristóbal
This paladar is named after its owner, chef and driving inspiration, Carlos Cristóbal Márquez Valdés. Cluttered and eclectic, this is a lived-in space on the bottom floor of an early 20th-century mansion. Piles of old books are stacked atop beautiful old furniture; black and white photos jostle for space with antique record covers and bullfighting posters, while a selection of clocks, religious artefacts and, even a full-size zebra pelt, add to the mix.
The food is Cuban-Creole: malanga, yucca, cerdo asado (roast pork), lobster, fresh fish, shrimp and other traditional fare. This is not, however, the bland standard cuisine found in many state restaurants. The dessert menu is expansive: pudding San Cristóbal (eggs, fruit, milk and almonds) is excellent while the fruit tart and rice puddings are pretty passable, as well as the omnipresent flan. The wine list is broad enough and reasonably priced.
• Calle San Rafael No 469, between Lealtad and Campanario, central Havana, +537 860 1705
Le Chansonnier
Le Chansonnier used to be a French-themed private restaurant cluttered with antiques, a solid if not spectacular place to eat. Reopened by Hector Higueras in October 2011, its reinvention has left little trace of the old interior of the house, which dates back to 1860. Le Chansonnier is now a haven of contemporary chic that integrates all of Havana's coolest elements: beautiful young staff, great music, sensitive lighting and décor, as well as what must be the coolest toilet facade in Cuba (created by artist Damián Alquiles).
This is quality nouveau cuisine – without the silly small portions – put together by experienced chef Enrique. For starters, try pulpo en tinta de calamar (octopus in squid ink), caviar de berenjena (aubergine caviar) or sopa de cangrejo (crab soup). The best main courses include pato le Chansonnier (duck le Chansonnier), pechuga de pollo con salsa de tamarindo, (chicken breast with tamarind) and pescado a la provenzal (fish provencal). Desserts are reasonable, the coffee is good and our only complaint would be the limited and overpriced wine men.
• Calle J No 257, between Calles 13 and 15, Vedado, +537 832 1576
Café Laurent
The entrance to Café Laurent gives little away. Although it is just around the corner from the famous Hotel Nacional, you have to be guided into the apartment building, where a small antique elevator takes you up to the penthouse. This is not a charming family-run paladar, but a stylish and professional restaurant, foremost in the new wave of private eating establishments in Havana.
The paladar has an updated 1950s feel. Old newspapers with 1950s adverts cover the back wall. Billowing white awnings outside provide shade and a touch of modern Miami.
Dayron Aviles Alfonso is the Cuban chef who, having worked in San Sebastián as well as in Buenos Aires, is comfortable with the Spanish Basque-based menu. The food is excellent. Red snapper with clams and shrimp in green sauce (pargo con almejas y gambas en salsa verde) is fabulous. Shrimps, steak, meatballs and salads are all well done, while the biscotti de chocolate is irresistible. On Sundays, try the lunch special: tasty paella or risotto.
• Calle M No 257, between Calles 19 and 21, Vedado, +537 831 2090
Atelier
Atelier is a contemporary space in an idiosyncratic Havana mansion, with a large main room and two balconies with boundless cushions. An antique hob outside and old sewing and adding machines inside give the place a retro feel.
Atelier is run by Niuris Higueras, who has long nutured her passion for exciting food: the menu changes every day. While Niuris is the inspiration, Enrique is the experienced chef and together they create an eclectic range of dishes, including falafels, pato confitado (duck confit), lomito de res con camarones y espuma de apio al olivo (sirloin steak with shrimp and celery mousse), conejo al vino (rabbit in wine) to cerdo asado (roast pork). Desserts are standard (flan, tarts, ice cream) but good. The food is consistently excellent, if a little unpredictable, as is the service.
• Calle 5, between Paseo y Calle 2, Vedado, +537 836 2025
Doña Eutemia
It would take a hard heart to be immune to the charms of Leticia, the diminutive elderly owner of Doña Eutemia. She wants so much to offer an intimate relaxing place that she hopes you'll linger – even when she has a queue outside. This paladar is opposite an artist's workshop a few metres from state restaurant El Patio, on Cathedral Square. The contrast could not be greater.
Leticia had no formal training but has developed a traditional Cuban menu based on her mother's dishes. She doesn't like to invent new dishes or add a modern touch. So look for tamal, ropa vieja (literally, old clothes, a dish of shredded steak in tomato sauce), and pork, rice and beans. Don't underestimate how well these dishes can be prepared. We loved everything, including an excellent filet mignon and octopus with garlic. If the paladar is full you'll have a long wait: just take your newspaper and a healthy dose of patience.
• Callejón del Chorro No 60c, Plaza de la Catedral,+535 270 6433
La Carboncita
This paladar is run by an Italian, Walter. There is a menu, with pizzas and pastas, as well as some meat dishes, but most regulars simply have whatever Walter suggests. His recommendation is invariably uncomplicated, but this is undeniably the best place for pizza and pasta in Havana. I am not really sure what the secret ingredient is, but I do know that it includes a large dash of Walter's charm, mixed with the freshest ingredients and a newly installed stone pizza oven.
The place is unspectacular in decor and ambience. Pleasant, comfortable, unpretentious with lightning-quick service, this is simply a good place to eat within a 200-year-old former monastery. People in the know return again and again because one hit is never enough.
• Calle 3a No 3804 between Calles 38 and 40, Miramar, +537 203 0261
La Galería
Opened in mid-2011, La Galería is another welcome addition to the city's paladares. Located on the corner of Calles 19 and 12, it has an outdoor terrace as well as a nice indoor, air-conditioned space. This is a place of ambient charm, which would be entirely normal in most cities, but somehow appears notable in Havana. The food really is excellent and the menu is varied and well presented. La Galería is as good for garlic prawns as for filet mignon or fresh fish. The staff are experienced and apparently feel neither an intense need to chat nor abandon you when it gets quiet. I like this place.
• Calle 19 No 1010, Esquina 12, Vedado, +537 836 3603
El Carruaje
El Carruaje (The Carriage) is in the leafy suburb of Siboney. The mansion has an elegant pool and large ranchón. The owners/managers are Mirka and Raúl. Raúl is a builder who has supervised and managed the construction. Mirka trained as a chemical engineer but somehow found her way into tourism, working for 16 years at the Habana Libre Hotel. The restaurant is her dream, with her ideas and menu. The lighting on the terrace may be a little bright, the pictures a little kitsch and the indoor area too pink, but the staff are young, attentive and quick.
Mirka describes the food as Cuban with fusion international. Starters are especially good. Normally, I dislike tamal – ground maize – but the tamal en hoja grille relleno de tomate confitado y envuelto en jamón serrano (grilled tamal filled with candied tomato wrapped in cured ham) is great. There are a lot of good main courses, including excellent lamb with red wine. A range of pizzas is also available. The quality of the place is shown by its popularity: as you leave, you are asked to ring a bell if you enjoyed your meal, and it sounds regularly.
• Calle 200 No 2104, between Calles 21 and 23, Siboney, +537 271 4347, restaurantelcarruaje.com
Castas y Tal
Castas y Tal is on the 11th floor of a large apartment building in Vedado, just around the corner from Hotel Presidente. The restaurant has three areas, a main dining room that can seat eight, an indoor terrace with glass windows and a side area where you can have an excellent caipirinha prepared with eau de vie (fruit brandy), and caipiroska (with vodka). This is not a slick mega-paladar but a homely lounge.
Jonathan Reyes is a young Cuban entrepreneur and chef Ransys Valdés knows and loves her food. With a German grandmother, Chinese uncle and various Spanish relatives, she has plenty of influences.
The food is light, fresh and healthy. Croquettes, tapas and Spanish omelettes are delicious but do not sit like a lead balloon in your stomach. Everything possible is made in house. Several dishes are special recipes of Ransys: cordero casto is boned lamb cooked with masala spices; pollo y tal (boned chicken with vegetables in pineapple juice and ginger); shrimps in rosemary sauce; and roast beef in mushroom sauce. You have to try the Piso 11 dessert – French bread with eggs, red wine, vanilla ice-cream, hot chocolate and ginger. Standard Spanish and Chilean wines should be available.
• Calle E No 158 B, between Calles 9a and Calzada, Vedado +537 833 1425
La Campana
At first glance, chill-out bar and grill La Campana seems more like an upmarket finca (farm) than anything else. This is a swish ranchón beside a nice pool. Depending on the night, you may be able to combine dinner with a concert. Kelvis Ochoa, December Bueno and David Torrens have all played poolside recently. On these nights, starting around 11pm, the place gets packed to the rafters with a trendy young crowd. Sunday lunch is more a family time. The menu, which has received mixed reviews, is extensive and includes tapas (ceviche, carpaccio, papas bravas, gazpacho and so on) and sushi, pizzas and pastas (gnocchi are a speciality), Chateaubriand steak, fish and paella. Everything except traditional Cuban-Creole fare.
• Calle 212 No 2904, between Calles 29 and 31, La Lisa, +537 271 1073
This list was compiled by Cuba Absolutely, an online lifestyle magazine about Cuba
