A larger than life Frenchman has restored a 1920s train to carry guests between his small chain of hotels up and down Benin. Tim E White and Flora King climb aboard for a unique African journey
Three years ago Frenchman Guy Catherine purchased three 1920s railway coaches and refurbished them so that guests could travel from Cotonou, the economic capital of Benin, to Parakou, 300 miles northPhotograph: Flora KingThe "Train d’Ebene" (Ebony Train) was born. It travels on a single narrow gauge track, stopping at sights and villages along the wayPhotograph: Tim E WhiteThe fishing village of Ganvié on Lake Nokoué was established in the 16th century by the Tofinu tribe, fleeing their slave-trading Dahomeyan neighbours Photograph: Flora KingPhotograph: Action imagesGrand Popo, a fishing village near the Mono estuary and the Togo border, is in the heart of voodoo country. Local Fa diviners are very active here Photograph: Tim E WhiteAs the train passes through rainforest and rural villages, children run to the trackside to wavePhotograph: Tim E WhiteA mother and kids at the trackside at Ouagbo stationPhotograph: Flora KingDassa Zoumé station. A short walk north of the town, sacred hills are dotted with shrines to voodoo divinities. Strangely, Dassa Zoumé is also home to the largest Christian pilgrimage site in west Africa Photograph: Flora KingAt top speed the train reaches 50kph. Safety measures consist of a conductor with good eyesight watching out for freight trains hurtling the other wayPhotograph: Tim E WhiteDue to underfunding and lack of demand, passenger rail travel has as good as ceased in Benin. In ramshackle 1920s stations, the billetterie is forever ferméPhotograph: Flora KingThe end of the linePhotograph: Tim E White