Benin’s train journey back in time

A larger than life Frenchman has restored a 1920s train to carry guests between his small chain of hotels up and down Benin. Tim E White and Flora King climb aboard for a unique African journey
  
  


Benin : guy catherine on board his train, benin
Three years ago Frenchman Guy Catherine purchased three 1920s railway coaches and refurbished them so that guests could travel from Cotonou, the economic capital of Benin, to Parakou, 300 miles north Photograph: Flora King
Benin : flora king on train in benin
The "Train d’Ebene" (Ebony Train) was born. It travels on a single narrow gauge track, stopping at sights and villages along the way Photograph: Tim E White
Benin : lake villge, ganvie, benin
The fishing village of Ganvié on Lake Nokoué was established in the 16th century by the Tofinu tribe, fleeing their slave-trading Dahomeyan neighbours
Photograph: Flora King
Photograph: Action images
Benin : voodoo ceremony, Benin
Grand Popo, a fishing village near the Mono estuary and the Togo border, is in the heart of voodoo country. Local Fa diviners are very active here Photograph: Tim E White
Benin : benin, kids running alongside guy catherine's vintage train
As the train passes through rainforest and rural villages, children run to the trackside to wave Photograph: Tim E White
Benin : Benin - a mother and kids on the trackside at Ouagbo Station.
A mother and kids at the trackside at Ouagbo station Photograph: Flora King
Benin : Dassa Station Benin
Dassa Zoumé station. A short walk north of the town, sacred hills are dotted with shrines to voodoo divinities. Strangely, Dassa Zoumé is also home to the largest Christian pilgrimage site in west Africa Photograph: Flora King
Benin : benin train track
At top speed the train reaches 50kph. Safety measures consist of a conductor with good eyesight watching out for freight trains hurtling the other way Photograph: Tim E White
Benin : Ticket Office in Benin
Due to underfunding and lack of demand, passenger rail travel has as good as ceased in Benin. In ramshackle 1920s stations, the billetterie is forever fermé Photograph: Flora King
Benin : train, benin
The end of the line Photograph: Tim E White
 

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