Sarah Stewart 

10 of Edinburgh’s best hangover cafes

A trip to the Edinburgh festivals usually means burning the candle at both ends, so here are the best cafes and restaurants for a slap-up, morning-after hangover buster
  
  

Word of Mouth
Mouth-watering ... Word of Mouth cafe in Edinburgh Photograph: PR

Word of Mouth

Despite its less-than-dazzling surroundings (it has a first-class view of a disused building) Word of Mouth is a cute little bolthole catering for hungry locals in search of comfort food and good coffee. Shelves of paperbacks and Coke in proper glass bottles lend the place a retro feel, and the highlight of the menu is a croque monsieur made using one of the owners' French family recipes. The staff are famously unsmiling, but, hey, who cares about effusive service when your establishment is home to the Antisocial Writers Group?
• 3a Albert Street, 0131-554 4344, wofmcafe.com. Open Mon–Thurs 8am-5pm, Fri-Sat 9am-5pm, Sun 10am-6pm. Average price £6

Palmyra

It may look like a late-night kebab joint – in fact it is a late-night kebab joint – but Palmyra is where Edinburghers in the know head for their morning-after falafel hit. It doesn't open until noon, so this is one for a slow morning. It's not the most atmospheric place – plastic tables and laminated menus – but for phenomenal falafel and baklava served at the speed of light, Palmyra is king. Long beloved by staff from the nearby Festival Theatre and once the subject of a not-entirely-ironic Facebook group called Palmyra is Better Than Life, this little joint should be on any hungover festival visitor's list.
• 22 Nicolson Street. Open Sun–Thur noon-2am, Fri-Sat noon-3am. Average price £4

Roseleaf

In the evenings, Roseleaf is known for serving great cocktails in vintage teapots, but this quirky little bar in deepest Leith also does a brunch that will knock your socks off. Nothing beats a whisky hangover like the uber-Scottish Tattie Stack – a pile of double potato scone and smoked bacon topped with Stornoway black pudding and a fried egg. Try not to think about the health repercussions as you linger over every greasy mouthful. Booking is recommended, as this place is always busy with hipsters ingesting carbs without removing their sunglasses. Don't hold that against it, though – it's lovely.
• 23/24 Sandport Place, 0131-476 5268, roseleaf.co.uk. Open daily 10am-1am. Average price £7

Sprio Deli and Latteria

Apparently the Velvet Underground's Nico used to live in the Stockbridge area of the city in more bohemian times, before it became all leafy and gentrified. Although that claim lacks hard evidence, we're willing to bet she'd have liked Sprio, a tiny Italian cafe tucked away down a side street – all fairylights, white walls and dinky tables. Replace your usual bacon buttie with its warm potato scone and pancetta – trust us, you'll never look back. Great espresso and a few outside tables, too.
• 37/39 St Stephen Street, 0131-226 7533, sprio.co.uk. Open Mon-Sat 8.30am-5.30pm, Sun 10am-5pm. Average price £5

The Edinburgh Larder

Despite its situation just off the tourist-magnet Royal Mile, The Larder remains a peaceful hideaway, with six wooden tables and a few deli shelves full of locally sourced and organic produce. There's a wide selection of teas, a kids' menu, gluten-free and vegan options, and the Sunday brunch is legendary – try the veggie haggis on toast for satisfying hangover stodge. The finishing touch? It's licensed, so if a hair of the dog's your thing, try some locally brewed ale, including one from Stewart Brewing and one from Falkirk's Tryst.
• 15 Blackfriars Street, 0131-556 6922, edinburghlarder.co.uk. Open Mon-Sat 8am-5pm, Sun 9am-5pm. Average price £6

Spoon

Often missed by tourists as it's up on the first floor, Spoon is an eclectic mix of vintage furniture, odd chairs and vintage posters – the 1960s tampon adverts in the ladies' loo are worth the trip alone. Loads of space between tables means you can debrief on the night before without shame, and the fresh mint and chilli tea is a definite winner for a morning-after detox. The clientele are as mixed as the furniture, lending the place a relaxed, unpretentious air, and the service, though sometimes slow, is smiley.
• 6a Nicolson Street, 0131-557 4567, spooncafebistro.co.uk. Open Mon-Sat 10am-11pm. Average price £7

Milk

Tucked away in an unglamorous corner of the West End, Milk has just a few small tables, cutlery in old syrup tins and friendly service. It's not in the prettiest location, but as it's just a couple of minutes' walk from Haymarket station, it's the perfect place to grab coffee when you have a train to catch. On weekdays, they'll whip you up a quick bacon sandwich or dish of porridge. At weekends, they somehow magic up an impressive brunch menu from a Tardis-like kitchen. Try the chorizo and Comté cheese breakfast burrito – or if sugar's your medicine of choice, Milk does the best chocolate brownies in town.
• 232 Morrison Street, 0131-629 6022, cafemilk.co.uk. Open Mon-Fri 7.30am-5pm, Sat-Sun 8am-4pm. Average price £5

Loudons

Often mysteriously quiet, this huge airy space tucked between Haymarket and the bustle of Tollcross is a great place to nurse a sore head. Get there earlyish and you can even bag one of the big sofas. Weekday breakfasts are worryingly healthy, but if you have an urge for warm spiced fruit with quinoa or an aloe vera shot, this is the place to be. Otherwise, come by at weekends to indulge in four kinds of eggs benedict, home-made granola and great flat whites. There's also outside seating for those elusive sunny Edinburgh mornings.
• 94b Fountainbridge, 0131-228 9774, loudons-cafe.co.uk. Open Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat-Sun 9am-6pm. Average price £6

Café Ruby

With something of a community centre feel about it, Café Ruby ain't exotic, but it is quiet, welcoming, and excellent value. There's a piano, which customers are encouraged to play (rumour has it that your coffee comes free if the staff are impressed with your keyboard skills) and the menu is simple – pancakes with bacon and maple syrup at just £3.50 is a snip. If you want to make a day of it, they do a high tea for two for under a tenner, and the sweet-but-unobtrusive service will make you feel right at home. Get there early to nab one of the vintage armchairs next to the piano.
• 12 Leven Street, 0131-229 6692, visitcaferuby.co.uk. Open Tue-Fri 11am-7.30pm, Sat 10am-7.30pm, Sun 10am-4pm. Average price £5

The Espy

This Australian-owned pub right on the Portobello seafront comes into its own at breakfast-time, serving a great brunch from 10am, seven days a week. The front bar is perfect for gazing out at the sea, while the red-painted back room is a pleasing jumble of mismatched sofas, tinkly chandeliers and board games, where you'll be tempted to linger with the papers and keep ordering coffee. Give the Aussie Eggs a whirl: poached free range eggs on toast with tomato, garlic and fresh basil.
• 62-64 Bath Street, 0131-669 0082, the-espy.com. Open Sun–Wed 10am-11pm, Thur–Sat 10am-1am. Average price £7

 

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