"Do you think we're nearly there?" This question is not from my son, who is only 14 months old, but from my partner who has pointed out several times that we would have arrived at our destination by now had we flown rather than take the train down to the south of France.

At the time, Eurostar seemed like a good idea: more relaxing, more comfortable and more in keeping with our destination – a family-run, eco-friendly glampsite. The reality is we have to take turns monitoring our son Ossian's mission to set a new world record for the number of circuits a small child can make of a train carriage. So we are a teensy bit frazzled by the time we finally arrive at La Pierre Verte, exactly 12 hours after leaving our house, wondering whether we should have chosen to go glamping in Kent, instead of the Languedoc.

However, all three of us brighten up instantly on our arrival – Ossian at the sight of a cat he can chase; me and my boyfriend on hearing the words cold beer and honesty bar.

La Pierre Verte is a three-acre woodland in the Languedoc, run by twentysomething Brits Ella and Ed Cade, who live on site with their five-year-old daughter, Lily. Alongside their own house, designed by Ella's architect grandfather, there is a yurt, bell tent and mazet, a former shepherd's shelter converted into a one-bed apartment, all spaced out enough to feel private but with shared use of a pool surrounded by lavender and rosemary bushes, an organic garden and a chicken coop.

It's easy to mock glamping. Originally favoured by a hippy minority, it soon became a hit among the yummy mummy set with the launch of Feather Down Farms' faux-vintage tented cottages in 2006. With the latest trend for glampsites in the grounds of five-star hotels, complete with hot tubs, bathrobes, flatscreen TV, Wi-Fi and freestanding baths, it's lost all vestiges of being alternative: check out the Hot Tub Safari at Pentre Mawr Country House, in north Wales (pentremawrcountryhouse.co.uk). Glamping has become as cliched as holidaying in a Tuscan villa.

But there's a reason glampsites have mushroomed across the UK and Europe – they are brilliant compromise holidays for families. Ossian loved having a posse of playmates by the pool. I loved the peace and quiet, and eating breakfast outside after a decent night's sleep. My other half enjoyed swearing at the barbecue. The camping purists can sneer all they like, I'll take glamping over a damp two-man any day.

And anyhow, not all glampsites look like a Cath Kidston photo shoot. Some, like La Pierre Verte, strike just the right balance between getting back to nature and comfort. The tents have proper beds, and Ella will knock up a G&T for you from a garden shed that doubles as a bar, but you don't feel like you've copped out completely. There's nothing glamorous about the outdoor compost loo that the two tents share or the kitchen shack where they cook. Despite the mazet (where we were staying having booked too late for the tents) providing the option of a stay in (hemp) bricks and mortar, the emphasis is on the simple life.

The ecocredentials include solar energy for the tents, composting all food waste and a certified organic garden, and there are plans to open a vegetarian restaurant on the site, too. It's back to basics with some simple luxuries – you can get a takeaway coffee and freshly-baked bread from the Shed every morning.

For a touch of glamour you only need to drive five minutes past fields of sunflowers and wheat to the sophisticated town of Uzès. Strolling across the main square, place aux Herbes, feels like stepping on to the set of Chocolat, painted by Farrow & Ball. An accordion player provides the soundtrack. In one corner is a clothes shop that sells only white garments, in another La Maison de la Truffe is a temple to decadent, truffle-infused foods from oils and vinegars to risotto and chocolate. Perhaps the most indulgent of all are the foie gras and truffle macaroons, which I imagine the women of Uzès eat as they lounge about in their elegant white clothes.

At the other end of town, near the cathedral, a handful of antique and bric-a-brac shops are stuffed full of gorgeous vintage furniture, lighting and clothes. Not cheap, but lovely places to browse – and drink. Several of them have bars or patios.

There are plenty of easy excursions you can make from La Pierre – even with a baby in tow. We managed to tick off the Pont du Gard, near Remoulins, part of a 50km-long Roman aqueduct that runs between Uzès and Nîmes. There's a museum but we paddled, or in Ossian's case sat, in the cool shallows of the Gard river admiring the magnificent three-tiered aqueduct towering above us. On another day we drove to Nîmes and toured its crowd-free Roman ruins and the Carré d'Art, a Norman Foster-designed contemporary arts museum. We ate our best meal of the week at Le Vintage (7 rue Bernis, +33 4 6621 0445), where thanks to our friendly fellow diners and waiter who entertained Ossian, we managed to sit down long enough to eat three delicious courses.

The town of Saint-Quentin la Poterie, renowned for its ceramics, was also worth a visit. At least a dozen artists have studios here, many producing fairly chunky rustic work in earthy colours.

Most nights we barbecued on our little terrace, but we did venture into Uzès one evening when the whole town was en fête. Families gathered in the main square to listen to a band playing Gypsy Kings covers. The atmosphere was fantastic – the whole square twinkling with fairy lights and kids haring about excitedly, all set against the backdrop of golden-hued medieval buildings. As we drank our beers, Ossian had a ball, following other children around and dancing in front of the stage. Now we wouldn't have had that in Kent.

• La Pierre Verte (lapierreverte.eu) has a bell tent for €450 per week, yurt €550, mazet €795. Prices are based on two sharing. Extra beds €15 per week, travel cots provided free. At the time of going to print there was still availability in the mazet for August and September, and the tents for September. Eurostar (08432 186186, eurostar.com) runs direct trains from London St Pancras to Avignon in summer, otherwise you have to change at Lille. Returns from £109pp. Carrentals.co.uk has a week's car hire, from Avignon train station, from £151