Annabelle Thorpe 

10 of the best agroturismos in Mallorca’s Tramuntana mountains

Mallorca's dramatically beautiful Tramuntana mountains have just been awarded Unesco World Heritage status. Annabelle Thorpe picks 10 agroturismos for walkers, foodies or those who just want to enjoy the stunning views
  
  

escastell
Underneath the arches … thick stone walls at Es Castell Photograph: PR

Es Castell, Caimari

The welcoming feel of Es Castell is in no small part down to the warmth of British owner James and his wife Paola, who run this beautifully converted finca with love and flair. Behind the thick stone walls lie 12 traditionally furnished rooms overlooking a cobbled courtyard dotted with terracotta urns brimming with geraniums and bougainvillea. Dinner here is the real treat – a four-course set menu that often includes a pasta course (thanks to Paola's Italian roots) and which will be happily adapted for veggies. Fish features heavily, and guests are welcome to join the chef on his weekly trip to the S'Olivar fish market in Palma.
Doubles from €130, +34 971 875 154; fincaescastell.com

Sa Màniga, Bunyola

Sa Màniga, a traditional manor house surrounded by fruit orchards, is ideal for walkers. Routes start from the door of the hotel, leading up the nearby peak of Mount Teix, or across the plain into the pretty village of Bunyola. Sa Màniga doesn't try to be hip but instead makes the most of its rural location; the four bedrooms are named after the trees that grow outside the windows, and breakfast is a traditional Mallorcan affair – juice from the estate's orange trees, home-made panades (local pastries) and pa amb oli – home-made bread and olive oil.
• Doubles from €95, +34 971 613428, fincasamaniga.com

Es Mirabo, Valdemossa

Es Mirabo has the kind of views that make you sit, unmoving, for hours. This beautiful finca lies on the opposite hill to Valdemossa, and when the sun begins to set, the whole town glows gold in the last of the light. Owned by the same family since the 19th century, Es Mirabo feels wonderfully laid-back – guests can potter into a help-yourself kitchen for drinks and snacks, and a fantastic buffet breakfast is served on the shady terrace. Dinners - which must be booked in the morning – are informal but tasty; slow-roasted lamb or paella to share – with a good selection of Spanish wines.
Doubles from €140 B&B, +34 661 285215, mirabo.es

Muleta de Ca S'Hereu, Port de Soller

Perched high up in the Sierra de Alfabia, but just a short drive from the ritzy promenade at Port de Soller, this grand old finca retains a traditional Mallorcan feel. The eight bedrooms have beamed ceilings and tiled floors, while outside the pool area and shady terraces are surrounded by old olive trees. Fifty metres from the hotel lies a footpath leading from Port de Soller to Deia, which links into a network of tracks running through the Tramuntana.
Doubles from €140, +34 971 186018, muletadecashereu.es

Son Pont, Puigpunyent

Situated close to the Puig de Galatzo nature reserve in the southern end of the Tramuntana, Puigpunyent is a sleepy village, with a couple of cafes usually filled with locals and walkers, downing a cerveza or two after a hike along the waymarked trails that lead past waterfalls, springs, caves and olive groves. Dating back to the 15th century, Son Pont is an elegant rural estate with its own mill, oil press and chapel and 140 hectares of gardens. By day, the views over the carob and almond orchards are lovely, and at night the starry skies are spectacular.
Doubles from €98 B&B, +34 971 71 95 27, sonpont.com

C'an Simo, Alcudia

If you've got the kids in tow but don't want to stay in one of the hectic beach resorts, C'an Simo is a great choice. It's a short drive from the beaches of Port d'Alcudia and Puerto Pollensa, but tucked away in the northernmost tip of the Tramuntana. The finca has been converted to keep the feel of a traditional Mallorcan home, with luxy touches including a sauna, Jacuzzi and indoor pool behind the thick walls. The pretty courtyard becomes a restaurant in the evenings, serving traditional dishes such as roasted pork loin and tumbet, a rich vegetable casserole.
Doubles from €98, +34 971 549260, cansimo.com

Can Isabel, Soller

One of the island's prettiest towns, Soller is surrounded by orange groves and encircled by the peaks of the Tramuntana. On sunny mornings the town converges on the cafes in the main square, dominated by the cathedral; a great place for glimpse of traditional Mallorcan life. Can Isabel is a 19th-century townhouse in the heart of the town, with six sleek bedrooms and a pretty courtyard garden perfect for late-morning breakfasts.
Doubles from €115 B&B, +34 971 638 097, canisabel.com

Can Calco, Moscari

Simple and chic, but without any minimalist chill, Can Calco is the kind of place you mean to use as a base, and then end up not leaving for days. Surrounded by the peaks of the Tramuntana, it has cool and uncluttered bedroomsd, while outside there are two pools. But the real joy is not having to get in the car for dinner: come evening the pool terraces morph into a candlelit restaurant, serving grilled seafood, sizzling lobster and the day's catch from the hotel's own fishing boats that sail from Port d'Alcudia each morning.
Doubles from €105 B&B, +34 971 515260, cancalco.com

Son Pons, Buger

Dating back to the 16th century, Son Pons combines exposed brick walls and Mallorcan antiques with mod cons – from Wi-Fi to in-room massages. The house is surrounded by lush oak woodland and olive groves, which provide the hotel with oil. The oil is an integral part of all meals, which are taken on the pretty terrace. Son Pons lies in one of the most tranquil areas of the island, by the foothills of the Tramuntana and close to the small untouristy village of Búger.
Doubles from €114, +34 971 877142, sonpons.com

Son Borguny, Banyalbufar

The village of Banyalbufar has a spectacular location, perched on terraced slopes that run down to the sea. Located in the south-east of the Tramuntana region, the village makes a tranquil base – ideal for popping into the nearby tourist honeypots of Valdemossa and Deia before retreating back to the peaceful medieval streets. Son Borguny has eight simply furnished bedrooms and a vaulted breakfast room housed in a building that dates back to the 15th century, while the outdoor terraces offer plenty of shady corners for lazing with a book.
Doubles from €95 B&B, +34 971 148706, sonborguny.com

 

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