Palma's maze of medieval streets and alleys hides an impressive array of tapas bars and bodegas – from pleasingly ramshackle to gleamingly minimalist. And with pintxos starting at around €2, there's no reason not to try them all.
1. The Tapas Club
Fifteen minutes' stroll out of the centre of town lies the Portixol area; a once run-down fishing quarter that has been spangled up with renovated fishermens' cottages, a smart hotel and a cluster of excellent restaurants around a small beach. In a prime spot at the far end of the beach, the Tapas Club offers cocktails and plates of tapas arranged artfully on the gleaming bar. If it's too hot outside, lounge on the cushioned area inside, while ordering up mojito and mejillones (Spanish mussels) combos.
• Paseo del Portixol, +34 971 248 604, Tapas from €3
2. La Boveda
A perennial favourite with locals and visitors – and it's easy to see why. Boveda combines a busy tapas bar at the front of the restaurant with a slightly more formal dining area behind. Perch at the bar for slices of tortilla, spicy albondigas and grazing plates of local cheeses and hams or reserve a table (necessary) for hearty slabs of veal and pork and simply grilled, locally caught fish. The house plonk is pretty good too.
• Paseo Sagrera, 3, +34 971 72 00 26, mains from €14 (£11.65), tapas from €5
3. Bodega Bellver
Tucked up a side street around the corner from the theatre, Bellver is about as far away from Palma's gleaming 21st- century tapas bars as it's possible to imagine. Dark and shadowy, with shelves lined with dusty bottles and wine barrels, and rickety wooden tables scattered around the small space, it is steeped in history, atmosphere and the smell of spicy pork frying on the tiny grill beside the bar. Order up icy beers and pinchos and settle into a slice of unchanged Mallorquin life.
• Calle Serinya 2, +34 971 247 96, Pinchos from €5
4. C'an Joan de Saigo
If you're after a traditional Mallorquin breakfast, this the place. C'an Joan de Saigo has been serving up ensaimadas – the island's equivalent of a croissant – since its opening in 1700. For something with so much heritage it's unshowy – and pleasingly untouristy - tucked away down a small alley in the heart of the old town. If it's too hot for pastry, they also do pretty good helado.
• Calle Can Sanc, 10, Ensaimadas from €2
5. Bon Lloc
A veggie institution in Palma for 20 years, eating at Bon Lloc is also about what's fresh and available on the day. The set menu is created according to what is available from the market in the morning, with three main choices and two desserts. Chef Juanjo Ramirez uses organic ingredients where possible to create dishes such as spelt and seaweed spaghetti, and polenta with tomato, rocket and coriander. Reservations essential.
• Sant Feliu 7, +34 971 781 617, lunch only, two courses, €13.50.
6. Tast
Popular with locals and always busy, this is an ideal place for a quick refuel if you're on a shopping trip in the centre of town. Plates have coloured rims according to price and you can help yourself to the cold tapas on the bar, or order from the very reasonably priced menu of pintxos, tapas and raciones. Pintxos (small kebabs) are particularly good and the patatas bravas are crispy, hot and smothered in a chile-tomato sauce that is delicious.
• Calle Union 28, +34 971 72 98 78; tapas from €2
7. Cappuccino Grand Cafe
Although there are now several Cappuccinos in Palma, this is one of the oldest and most charming. Situated in a converted Mallorcan palacio, the airy, elegant courtyard has been converted into the main dining area, but the real joy is the shady garden at the back. The strong euro makes Cappuccino a pricy choice for what it is, but order up a plate of pa amb oli to share – a Mallorcan speciality of local bread drenched in olive oil and rubbed with tomato, served with manchego and jamon serrano – and watch Mallorcan ladies who lunch.
• San Miguel 53, grupocappuccino.com; mains from €12
8. Wineing
As the name might suggest, the wine takes precedence here - although the tapas are good, particularly the gambas al ajillo (sizzling prawns). Marketing as itself as La Tapa de Vino, the idea is to try as many different wines as tapas plates. On arrival you are given a card, which you can slot into one of several cabinets each holding around 10 bottles of wine, and select either a taste, half-glass or full-glass of whichever you fancy. The cost is automatically loaded on to the card, so you can settle up at the end. There are knowledgeable staff on hand to offer recommendations.
• Apuntadores 24, +34 971 723 852 Tapas from €4
9. Lizarran
Like Tast, at Lizarran you can help yourself to the pintxos on the bar – slices of French bread pinned to prawns, pates, jamon serrano or roasted peppers on toothpicks. Prices are excellent and the pace is fast – this is not the place for a romantic supper a dos. Stick to the tapas on toothpicks and you'll pay €1.40 for each pick left on your plate – or if you're hungry dive into one of the huge plate of local meats and cheeses.
• Centro Commercial Porto Pi (top floor), +34 971 403 358, tapas from €1.40.
10. Sa Roqueta
Easy to miss, Sa Roqueta is a small wood-panelled restaurant in the Portixol area, which keeps its perfect paellas under the radar, with just a small panel on the wall announcing its existence. The fish is straight out of the sea and the cooking is some of the best in the city. Their arroz marinara - shellfish in a saffron-laced broth – is a delight, and how can you not love a restaurant that has Barry White as their website soundtrack?
• Carre Sirena 11, +34 971 244 658, mains from around €13.
Getting there
Flybe fly from nine UK regional airports to Palma from £55.99 one way. The Hotel Ca Sa Padrina (+34 971 425 300; hotelcasapadrina.com) has doubles from €107.
