Today we're north of Aviemore, just beyond Grantown-on Spey, within easy reach of Aberdeen and Inverness. Luxury and organic, says the website for this B&B. The pages are suitably green but I am ashamed to admit that D and I have both printed off very un-eco quantities of paper directions before leaving home.
In the event, this big old Victorian villa is incredibly simple to find. We enter through a tiled porch. Cinnamon scents the hallway, through a doorway there is a dark red glimpse of sitting room, and a canine welcome from somewhere at the back of the house. Then Carol Monteith appears, to take us up the sweep of staircase.
"Sorry about the bird poo – it's the house martins," she laughs, indicating the picture window. We're standing in a large double at the front. There they are, swoop swooping. The sound of summer. Then Carol shows us a twin room next to it, explaining that she and husband James tend to stick to letting just two doubles (the other is already occupied). That's a pity, we say, as soon as she's gone. The twin, with a matching pair of antique beds, is so pale and restful D wants to move in permanently.
True to the B&B's mission statement, much of the decor has been sourced locally, paintwork is eco-friendly and bedding organic cotton, but there is nothing worthy about any of it. Sumptuous is the only word for all the beaded cushions, lamps, quilts, mirrors and furnishings, plus we each have our own separate bathroom.
Padding over rugs on polished oak to reach the stairs we descend to ask Carol for a dinner recommendation. A short drive and we're at Craggan Mill (+44 (0) (1479 872288), a cavernous restaurant whose wooden tables and chairs would lend a pubby atmosphere were it not for lighting more suitable for the KGB. We order, seated on sofas. Perhaps it is the length of the wait which makes what arrives seem so disappointing. A carrot, a cauliflower floret and braised red cabbage sit, unexcitingly, on my plate next to cannon of lamb and garlic mash. This wonderful cut of meat is perfectly cooked, unbelievably soft and tender, but I've seen better presentation on Come Dine with Me. It is D who hits the jackpot. Butternut squash, aubergine and sweet potato curry with basmati rice and sambals look as delightful as they taste.
We drive back through the summer Highland night, along an avenue of pines, low cloud clinging to distant mountain tops.
Breakfast. The main event, I'll be bound, downstairs in the dining room at our organic B&B. Hello – here's something new: a miniature water feature tinkles soothingly on the sideboard next to cereals, berries, seeds and nuts. "It makes me want to pee," jokes James, who appears, like a modern-day laird, in green moleskins, tweed waistcoat and brogues. He used to work for Strathclyde police, Carol says, with young people with behavioural problems (the reason perhaps why she believes so strongly that what we eat affects us on all levels).
"We've fresh duck eggs if you'd like," James tells the walkers at the next table when they order a full cooked. He fetches me organic yoghurt to go with the fruit and nuts, then smoked salmon and an egg, Aga-baked with cream, in a tiny ramekin. For D, salty, Balnafettach Farm outdoor-reared bacon and mushrooms with garlic, red onion and parsley. Mmm, and a smidge of Carol's mum's blackcurrant jam from its ceramic pot. What happy bedfellows conscience and indulgence are here in Cromdale. D is waxing lyrical about her mushrooms even now.
• Doubles at Eden House (+44 (0)1479 872 112) £100-£110pn, or available through laterooms.com (0844 774 1001) from £80 per night for a last-minute deal. EasyJet flies to Inverness from Luton, Gatwick and Bristol from £25.99 rtn inc tax. For further information see visitscotland.com/perfect
WHAT TO DO IN THE AREA: THE LOCALS' TIPS
Where to eat
The Glasshouse in Grantown-on-Spey (01479 872980) offers award-winning cuisine and a special lunch menu. The dishes are imaginative yet simple, allowing the food to speak for itself. Andersons Restaurant in nearby Boat of Garten (01479 831466) uses local seasonal produce, so the menu changes each month. Both are family-friendly.
Throughout the summer, the Cairngorms Farmers Market sells produce such as beef, lamb, smoked fish and cheese direct from the supplier, as well as locally made furniture, things for the home and jewellery.
Pete Crane of the Cairngorms National Park Authority
Adventures
Grantown couple Abby and Patrick Harrison combine mountaineering, massage and yoga in an unusual events programme provided by their company, Beallich.
At Boat of Garten you can hire a bike from Cairngorm Bike and Hike (01479 831745; £12 for half a day), cycle gentle off-road trails to the town of Aviemore and then catch the Strathspey Steam Railway (01479 812220; £26 for a family of five travelling third class) back to your start. PC
Rothiemurchus estate (01479 812345) offers an idyllic location for quad biking, cycling, pony treks, clay shooting, walking, rafting and bushcraft. It has also been voted the best picnic spot in Scotland.
Carol Monteith, owner of Eden House
Walks
The local villages all have great path networks that allow you to discover the area and see the wildlife against the backdrop of the magnificent Cairngorm mountains. There are well-marked paths with plenty of options to suit any age or ability. The paths meander through native pinewoods and offer a real chance of seeing red squirrels and possibly crossbills and crested tits. Fine views are guaranteed.
Check out boatofgarten.com, exploreabernethy.co.uk and glenlivetestate.co.uk. PC
Family attractions
The Cairngorms national park has a fantastic range of activities for all the family, including Cairngorm Mountain Railway, near Aviemore (01479 861261; £28.70 for a family of four); Landmark Forest Adventure Park, Carrbridge (01479 841613; £10.90 adults and £8.70 children); and Highland Wildlife Park, near Kincraig (01540 651270; £43.50 for a family of four). Many other activities can be found on visitcairngorms.com. PC
Art and whisky
The Malt Whisky Trail takes you to seven working distilleries including the Glenlivet (01340 821720; free admission), which was started by local George Smith on his farm near Minmore when distilling was legalised in 1823. Today, the successors to this original distillery have the sole right to call their product Glenlivet.
On the route you can also visit Tomintoul, the highest village in the Highlands, which is home to A'anside Studios and Tomintoul Gallery , both members of Creative Cairngorms , a group of artists inspired by the national park. PC
Wildlife experience
Join the Cairngorm reindeer herd out on the hillside or book a half-day trek (01479 861228; £45 per person), where you can lead your own reindeer across the lower slopes of the Cairngorms. CM
