Where to stay

The Quatermain

Slap bang in the middle of Sandton, the Quatermain is a more charming version of its sibling property, The Falstaff. The grandiose building is inspired by Sir Edwin Lutyens, taking his attachment to the country house and updating it in a contemporary South African style. The 102 rooms and two suites are warm and genteel in character. Charming gardens surround the swimming pool and a shaded courtyard provides respite from the heat. There is a restaurant on the premises but, to be frank, it would be better to explore a little further afield – the hotel is not far from the central hub of Sandton and all the attendant bars and restaurants.

• 60 West Road South, Morningside, Sandton; +27 (0)11 290 0900, quatermain.co.za. Rates from R1,287 (£114) for a double room.

Best for breakfast/snack

Wild Olive

This little deli is set on the main street in Greenside and has long been a favourite of the city's foodies. There's a wide range of home-cooked takeaway goodies, from rusks and muesli to delicious biscuits, nougats and chocolates. If you want to eat here, you can choose from seats outside on the pavement, inside, or in the courtyard garden. The menu offers simple and beautifully prepared food. For breakfast, wholesome muesli (with either honey, healthy or nuts) costs just R6 (50p) a bowl and the cooked breakfast is definitely worth a try, especially the omelettes. For lunch, there's an extensive buffet, comprising salads, quiches and delicious sandwiches.

• 14 Gleneagles Road, Greenside; +27 (0)11 646 1445. Open: 8.30am-5.30pm (3.30pm Sat/Sun). Closed Mondays

Best for lunch/dinner

Gramadoelas

Established in 1967, Gramadoelas has moved from a basement garage in Hillbrow to the Market Theatre in Newtown. It started life as an essay in inclusion (diners of all colours, backgrounds and financial means were welcomed), and has carved out a niche in the city's affections. Today the menu encompasses true South African fare, with a range of slightly more exotic dishes ranging from mopani worms and crocodile steak to ostrich, and is widely considered one of the best South African restaurants in the country. The décor here is stylish but busy, with little knick-knacks, artefacts and mirrors making for a warm, intimate experience.

• Market Theatre, Bree Street, Newtown; +27 (0)11 838 6960, gramadoelas.co.za. Open: noon-11.30pm Tues-Sat. 6pm-11.30pm Monday. Main course about R210 (£18.50)

Thomas Maxwell

Based in Parkmore in Sandton, the eclectic menu – which ranges from mussels and chips to warthog carpaccio – rarely changes thanks to a local loyal following. What used to be the best-kept secret in Jo'burg has now found wider appeal with diners flocking in their droves. Don't let the fairly unassuming entrance deter you – inside there's chic exposed brick walls and vintage furniture. Thomas, the owner and chef, is passionate about food and cites Brit offal aficionado Fergus Henderson among his influences. His love of wine is reflected in the extensive and international wine list.

• 140 11th Street, Parkmore, Sandton; +27 (0)11 784 1575, thomasmaxwell.co.za. Open: noon–2.30pm, 6–9.30pm, Mon–Fri; 6–9.30pm Sat. Main course about R220 (£19)

Drinks

Espresso Caffe

Despite being more cafe than bar – hence its name – Espresso Caffe is still a cool place to swig a bottle of ice-cold beer or two. Its position on an extended pavement makes for a really relaxed and casual atmosphere. Sunday afternoons are particularly enjoyable, especially when a sporting event is being shown live on the TV and the locals gather round. Breakfast, lunch and dinner menus are also available for those looking to line their stomachs.

• Shop 23, 4th Avenue, Parkhurst. +27 (0)11 447 8700. Open: 8am-10pm (8pm Sun). Closed Mondays

Giles

Having been open for more than 10 years, Giles – named after the famous cartoon strip – attracts a loyal following of locals who come mainly for after-work drinks and chit-chat at the bar. The interiors are festooned with comic strips. For a quick food fix, order a plate of biltong (cured beef) at the bar. Crowds tend to congregate here for the sporting fixtures shown on the TVs, with people spilling out on the street, drinks still in hand. Aside from the buzzing bar, the restaurant is a good spot for dinner with highly attentive waiters and an Anglo-French menu; highly recommended are the granny burger, fish and chips or Kudu pie.

• 9 Grafton Avenue, Craighall Park; +27 (0)11 442 4056. Open: daily, 12.15pm–4pm, 6.15pm– 10.30pm; 12.30pm–2.30pm Sun

Music

The Bassline

One of Jo'burg's better-known clubs, The Bassline is located in the Central Business District and has a simple strapline that sums it up nicely – "In Music We Trust". With a strong affinity to jazz, the venue prides itself on showcasing some of South Africa's best talent, and is packed out with music-loving spectators every Friday and Saturday night. With friendly bar staff and an equally friendly clientele, this is just the ticket for those with a passion for live music. Because of its location, pre-arrange a car back to your hotel before you go.

• 10 Henry Nxumalo Street, Newton; +27 (0)11 838 9145; bassline.co.za. Open: 8pm–2am Weds–Sat

Culture

Constitution Hill

Built on the site of the Old Fort Prison Complex, where Nelson Mandela, Mahatma Gandhi and numerous others were imprisoned and mistreated, Constitution Hill is now home to the democratic Constitutional Court of South Africa. The architecture is spectacular, a juxtaposition of original structures and contemporary additions. Guided tours are available, too, tracing the history of the site back to the Boer War.

• Constitutional Court, between Joubert Stand Kotze, Braamfontein; +27 (0)11 381 3100, constitutionhill.org.za. Open: 9am–5pm Mon-Fri; 10am–3pm Sat

Nature

Canopy tours

Magaliesberg Canopy Tours get you up close with one of the oldest mountain ranges in the world – 2,500 million years old, to be precise. With 11 platforms built against the rock face of Ysterhout Kloof, you'll slide from one platform to another via steel cables, taking in jaw-dropping views of the gorge. Just don't look down.

• Magaliesberg Canopy Tours, Magaliesberg; +27 (0)14 535 0150, magaliescanopytour.co.za

Jo'burg Zoo

Jo'burg Zoo opened in 1904, and is based around four basic principles – education, conservation, recreation and research. Beautifully designed and well maintained, the exhibits and enclosures work to bring visitors closer to many of the animals from all over the world including big cats, bears, monkeys, snakes and all manner of smaller creatures. For a real treat, book an evening tour of the zoo. Guests are driven around by one of the vets in a tractor with carriages behind it, with the idea being visitors will see a different side of the animals, as well as some of the more shy ones, all accompanied by expert commentary.

• Jan Smuts Avenue, Parkview; +27 (0)11 646 2000, jhbzoo.org.za. Open: daily, 8.30am–5.30pm

• Hedonist's guide to Johannesburg costs £12. For details of other Hedonist's guides, go to hg2.com