There is nothing like a sweeping drive to give a real sense of arrival. At the end is a house of indeterminate age. A besuited man emerges just as I park near a BMW. It's like a shoot for an executive homes brochure.
Do I need a hand, asks George Reid, who lives here with his wife Linda, and can I hear the owl, he wants to know? He starts calling, "woo hoo", and walks off towards some trees. Wow – here's a giant cage. And there's his pet eagle owl, called (of course) Merlin.
Merlin sounds just like my Mum when she used to call us in for tea and that's exactly what I'm gagging for right now. Once indoors, George shows me into the breakfast-sitting room, a massive space dominated by two unlaid tables and a pair of black sofas by a flueless fire set into a wall.
Glangwili Mansion once had four turrets and part of it dates back several hundred years but now, apart from one surviving tower and a few flagstones, "There's not a thing that's original," says Linda who comes from Llanelli. (George is from Dundee, where he was commercial manager of Dundee FC and director of Dundee zoo - hence the interest in owls.)
Glangwili was in such decline when the Reids bought it in 2006 that they have practically rebuilt the house. The interior is a blank canvas and that is exactly how the Reids use it – to display a collection of paintings – mostly by Laugharne-based Prudence Walters, a former make-up artist, whose arresting and intensely coloured acrylics lend drama everywhere I look. The art is for sale – but the Reids are subtle about it. You won't find a price list in your room.
"It was such an ugly house, even the estate agent said 'You don't want to see that'," says Linda, laughing, "But we fell in love with the location."
It is indeed a magnificent spot. The wooded slopes of the Brechfa forest rise up around it and there are views from all three guest rooms – which are totally separate from the Reids' part of the house.
Every room looks plush (no one else is staying) but I plump for Chartreuse since it has a bath. Everything is so new and smart, lights, power points and mirrors exactly where needed, and in the big tiled bathroom, mini toiletries slotted into their own plastic stand. The tea tray could offer something more glamorous than chocolate wafers and instant coffee though, and there is something of the Travelodge about a desktop No Smoking sign.
I'd happily pick one of the DVDs off a shelf, but there's an invitation to join George and Linda at their local and I'm not one to miss the pub. At The Railway Inn at Llanpumsaint I order "slices of Welsh lamb on colcannon" and that's exactly what I get, for less than a tenner. Brilliant.
I know what this B&B is all about, I ruminate, when I wake on a mattress like air and listen to birdsong. It's as close as a B&B can get to feeling like a hotel, at a fraction of the price. There is character in spades, but it comes from the owners, not courtesy of personal knick knacks everywhere. When I open a window and lean out, I spot George heading towards the trees, calling out to Merlin. Woo hoo.
• Llanllawddog (+44 (0)1267 253735, glangwilimansion.co.uk). Three guest rooms, from £95 to £110 B&B. When booked for exclusive use, you also get use of dining hall and kitchen-cum-sitting room. Further info on the area from discovercarmarthenshire.com.
What to do in the area - by the locals
Where to get on your bike
Mountain biking in Brechfa woods is perfect for everyone from complete novices to experienced mountain bike fans. The Brechfa mountain bike centre has hundreds of miles of trails all graded in a similar way to ski slopes.
Brechfa is one of those very remote areas in Wales where you can enjoy actually being on your own and in tune with yourself. My favourite times of day to head out into the hills are early morning and late evening, when it is possible to witness those small creatures making their way back to the burrow.
Phil Edwards, Merlin Cycle Tours
Where to get active
Millennium Coast Park and Pembrey Country Park are located together on the Carmarthen Bay coast near Llanelli. The parks have miles of beautiful coastal walks and beaches. During the summer months you can take a donkey ride, go pony trekking, hire a bike, go kite surfing, beach carting or rib riding. The area also has a first class motor racing circuit with motor racing most weekends.
PE
Where to eat
Carmarthenshire has many first class eating establishments from the award winning Y Polyn, owned and run by Simon Wright who rears all his own products for the restaurant, to The Angel Vaults in Notts Square, Carmarthen. The Angel Vaults is steeped in history and together with its tapas bar Diablos serves first class food in the middle of town. Also, don't forget to call in at Albert Rees, the butcher in Carmarthen Market whose salted ham is in my opinion the best in the county!
PE
Where to take the family
Aberglasney Gardens is a fabulous day out for all the family. The gardens were largely lost due to overgrown vegetation, but when this was removed it revealed the Cloister Garden which dates back to the early 16th century. A 10-year restoration program has now returned Aberglasney House and Gardens to their former glory. A gift shop and award winning cafe provide local dishes for visitors to enjoy.
George Reid, owner of Glangwili Mansion
What to do if it rains
Gwili Steam Railway is about five miles from Glangwili Mansion. Run by volunteers, it is open on selected dates throughout the year , there are special weekends when Thomas the Tank Engine makes an appearance or a Jazz Band entertains. The railway also operates Drive a Steam Engine experiences.
