The Ritz has altered its dress code of 100 years to allow guests to wear jeans. But only to breakfast, mind, in the hope that the hotel will "see more bookings", a spokesperson explained. This is the latest proof that when it comes to hotels, all the innovation is taking place around the breakfast table. Until recently the choice was simple: full English or continental. But the first meal of the day has taken centre stage. "Breakfast used to be eggs done three ways. But lately there's been a shift towards more interesting ingredients," says Guy Dimond, food and drink editor at Time Out.

It started, in London anyway, with breakfast bento boxes, available on request for Japanese guests at Claridge's, The Berkeley and The Dorchester. Last summer, the revamped Langham Hotel put morning miso soup on its regular menu. Rival hotels followed and the breakfast race began – some Marriotts now offer tofu at dawn.

For hearty appetites, The Lancaster's brekkie-behemoth includes lobster club sandwiches, burritos and a "breakfast dessert trolley". The Connaught's cult Sunday brunch opens with an egg-based appetizer, followed by a main and, finally, treats from the waffle station. Those of a more delicate constitution should sample The Montcalm's Canape Breakfast – a banquet of fried quails eggs, hash brown petit fours and bloody mary shots.

Details are all important – Claridge's offers a seasonal "jam list", while Gleneagles in Scotland gussies up its porridge with Drambuie-soaked raspberries. At Peckforton Castle in Cheshire, bespoke muesli is mixed daily by the chef – you can follow it with a sirloin steak at 8am.

It's the decadence that appeals, says Ben McCormack, editor of Squaremeal.co.uk. "Breakfast offers the chance to eat things you'd never dream of making at home, for health reasons or laziness."

Breakfast is also the perfect recession treat. The Lancaster's feast weighs in at £28 for three courses, The Montcalm charges £19.95 for all the canapes you can eat, and breakfast dishes at new Soho hotspot Dean Street Townhouse start at £2. If it all sounds like too much trouble, The Berkeley delivers Sunday breakfast to London homes – £60, but it will probably keep you going until mid-afternoon.