When the dazzling new Centre Pompidou-Metz museum opens its doors on 12 May, this little-known city in the north-east of France will suddenly become a hot new weekend destination. Only an 80-minute TGV ride out of Paris, Metz is a friendly, utterly untouristy place, not at all geared up for the arrival of visitors from around the world. But like Lille, which was suddenly "discovered" when it became European Capital of Culture, Metz is something of a hidden secret, with a host of great bistrots and gourmet restaurants, bars and clubs, shopping and markets.
1. Hotel de la Cathedrale
This is the ideal place to base yourself, perfectly located opposite the landmark 13th-century Gothic cathedral. It's a friendly rabbit's warren of rooms all decorated with vintage pieces and bric-a-brac from the city's twice-monthly antiques fair. Locals haven't yet jumped on the bandwagon of cashing in by opening chic B&Bs (apart from a fun houseboat), but frankly the rates at the Cathedrale could not be more reasonably priced. For wine lovers, there is an excellent bar à vin just next door, the Strapontin.
• 25 place du Chambre, tel: +3 3(0)38 77 50002, hotelcathedrale-metz.fr; doubles from €58 (£52).
2. Cafe Mathis
This typically French bistrot is one of the most popular hangouts in town and the ideal place to immerse yourself in Metz local life - whether you pop in for café and croissants at the bar, a hearty plat du jour at lunchtime or early evening aperitifs. There are always animated discussions going on, and don't be surprised if you get pulled into the conversation, as tourists are still a relative rarity. In summer, the owners also take over a sunny garden up the road, in front of the mansion where François Rabelais once lived, staging concerts, theatre and poetry readings.
• 72 en Fournirue, +33 (0)38 71 89467.
3. Chez Mauricette
Right next to the cathedral, the Marche Couvert is one of the oldest, most grandiose covered markets in France. It was originally built in 1785 as the palace for the Bishop of Metz. Sadly for him, the French Revolution broke out before he could move in and afterwards the citizens decided to turn it into their food market.
The fiesty Madame Mauricette is a well-known Metz personality. The half-a-dozen tables outside her market stand are an institution for sampling delicacies from the surrounding Lorraine region. A copious "assiette" of regional products costs €5-7 and includes pate with Mirabelle plums, saucisson, cured ham, pork brawn, local cheeses and a fresh salad. Next door is the equally genial Le Temps, des Soupes, where another character, Patrick Grumberg, serves a choice of 20 different homemade soups every day.
• Marche Couvert, place Jean-Paul II, +33 (0)38 73 63769, chezmauricette.eu.
4. Rue des Jardins
Metz is not exactly a shopping paradise, but the quaint Rue des Jardins, in the heart of the old medieval city, is worth checking out. There are a couple of bargain antique shops, and Gibus (N°5) is a hip vintage store specialising in handbags, other accessories and 1960's and 70's items collected from all over Europe by owners Karine and Pierre. Across the road, the newly opened Except (N°20) is a split-level concept store that combines the clubbing clothes of local design label 3dx, a futuristic coffee bar, interior design, and changing exhibitions showcasing young artists.
5. Claude Bourguignon
The Lorraine region is famed for its sweet mirabelle plums and no visit is complete without tasting the famous "tarte aux mirabelles". There seems to be a patisserie on every street corner, the windows filled with tempting cakes, meringues, eclairs, macarrons, gateaux au chocolat and the odd-looking "kugelhopf" from nearby Alsace. But the one to track down is Claude Bourguignon, who has a quiet salon in the back where you can indulge in a calorific afternoon tea, or savour the other local speciality, a Quiche Lorraine, which strictly follows the traditional recipe of cooking with eggs, mild and smoked bacon, but never adds cheese.
• 31 rue de la Tete d'Or, +33 (0)387752352.
6. Le Pop White
Ask any local where people meet in the early evening for an "apero" and the unanimous reply will be the place Saint Jacques. This charming square by the cathedral quickly gets filled with a dozen different bar terraces as soon as it's warm enough to sit outside. A popular rendezvous for students is Cafe des Arts, but Metz now has Le Pop White, its very own cool lounge bar that could just as easily be in Barcelona, Berlin, or, of course, Paris. While local fashionistas make sure they're seen here sipping exotic cocktails, there is also a bar upstairs that livens up later at night when it turns into a clubbing venue.
• 4 place Saint Jacques, +33 (0)38 73 50646.
7. Le Magasin aux Vives
There are a host of gourmet restaurants in Metz, but this stands out from the rest. Christophe Dufosse, the only chef in town to have a Michelin star, succeeds in highlighting local products while inventing original, creative recipes. His daring quiche lorraine is a "deconstruction" with all the ingredients presented separately; in a creamy risotto he uses pungent black truffles found in the surrounding countryside. The vineyards of the Moselle and the local Gris de Toul are well represented on an extensive wine list. The restaurant is part of a vast 16th-century military citadel that Christophe and his wife Delphine have renovated into a four-star hotel. Plush but reasonably priced (from €185 for a double), it's bound to become a favourite address for art lovers drawn here by the new Pompidou.
• 5 avenue Ney, +33 (0)38 71 71717, citadelle-metz.com.
8. Les Trinitaires
Hidden away on the St Croix hill that overlooks the town centre, this multi-media arts complex is housed in an ancient convent, whose vaulted cellar and chapel have been the city's prime venue for concerts by jazz greats like Sonny Rollins and Archie Shepp for over 45 years. In summer, the cloisters are converted into an open-air stage, while a new pop art bar is open every evening. Just across from the entrance to Les Trinitaires is another popular venue, the Cafe Jehanne d'Arc, which showcases local bands most evenings, often performing free of charge.
• 12 rue des Trinitaires, +33 (0)38 72 00303, lestrinitaires.com.
9. Bar Le Flamenco
Delightfully louche and sleazy, with table football (or baby-foot as it's called here) and live rock and punk bands at the weekend. The drinks are cheap too - cocktails €3-5 and a baron (Metz's term for a pint) is only €3, probably the lowest price in town. It's open till the early hours if there's a crowd. Nearby, L'Emile vache (77 rue des Allemands), exhibits eccentric artists and is a concert venue for eclectic music like Luxembourg hip-hop, Metz electro and rockabilly, plus punk bands from across the nearby German border.
• 4 rue Mazelle.
10. Bar Latino
A pulsating salsa club is the last thing you'd expect to discover in sleepy Metz, but turn up at Bar Latino after midnight at the weekend and the dancefloor is jammed with a couple of hundred clubbers. The barmen mix €5 mojito and caipirinha cocktails, while the DJ mixes Cuban, Columbian and Mexican tracks. The night doesn't end here either, as just down road is Tiffany, a cavernous disco that blasts out house and techno, ragga and R'n'B till 6am.
• 22 rue Dupont des Loges, +33 (0)38 77 57257, barlatino.fr.
• All photographs by John Brunton
