First impressions
In many ways St Anton has it all. There is a pretty church and traditional village centre, but also raucous après-ski and nightclubs. There are gentle pistes letting you potter around the neighbouring villages, but also huge amounts of challenging off-piste. And though this is one of the world's oldest ski resorts (the ski club here was formed in 1901, with the first downhill race in 1904), in recent years it has also become a cradle for brave modern architecture.
Throughout the village, the dark wood of centuries-old chalets is punctuated by futuristic creations – the Wellness Centre, the rock climbing centre, the new station – many of which have been garlanded with awards. The transformation began when the railway station was moved from the centre for the 2001 Skiing World Championships, which provided space for more experimental buildings. "Our guests look for authenticity and vibrancy and that is exactly what a museum village from the year dot does not offer," says Martin Ebster of the local tourist office. The Hotel Rundeck, bang in the village centre, fits right into the new trend, with clean, bold exterior lines and sleek interiors.
The room
This is the antithesis of the traditional Alpine hotel – the 27 rooms are vast and airy, with floor-to-ceiling windows and big balconies. Walls are white and unadorned with cowbells, carvings or farming implements, but offset by desks, headboards and built-in wardrobes all in the same dark wood veneer. "Times are changing – people don't want to look through small wooden windows anymore," says Klaus Eiter, the effusive owner. "I don't like lederhosen!" Public areas follow the same smart, modern theme. In the small bar there's a fire, and furs to wrap yourself in. Behind an anonymous door in the basement is a stylish spa, three types of sauna, and a garden for you to rush into and throw snow on yourself.
The food
There's no restaurant (there are scores nearby) but breakfasts are served in a big dining room flooded with light, and they are lavish: bircher muesli, fruit, bacon, eggs, frankfurters, croissants, cheese, ham, trays of cute little cakes, and so on. On the tables are tiny vases of pussy willows.
The verdict
The building itself could be too serious and businessy for a jolly alpine ski trip, were it not for the welcome and service. It's very much a family hotel. Klaus, who was born in the village, constantly bounds around, giving tips about where to ski, eat and drink, pumping my hand and telling jokes. The location is unbeatable, central but also set back from the high street, which can be full of singing revellers until 4am. "I want it quiet. I love relaxation!" says Klaus. From the ski room, it's a couple of minutes walk to the two main lifts, the Galzig cable car (winner of the International Chicago Architecture Award 2007 for its valley station) and Rendl (currently being totally rebuilt, ready for the new season). Modern aesthetics, traditional hospitality – the perfect hotel for St Anton.
The Price
St Anton, Austria, +43 5446 3133; hotelrundeck.at. Doubles from €138 B&B. For more on St Anton see stantonamarlberg.com
