Just south of Horsham, on the edge of the South Downs, grows an impressive rhododendron - 25 feet high and more than 30 feet wide. "That is the largest single-stemmed rhododendron in Britain," says Martin, the concierge at the recently extended and refurbished five-star South Lodge Hotel, pulling open the door to the imposing building that stands behind it. The large lobby is filled with charming features and an open fire. Wellington boots of different styles and sizes are lined up along one wall for guests who want to explore the 93 acres of woodland outside.
Throughout, the hotel has fused 19th- and 21st-century styles. A former billiards room with dark-wood panelling has been turned into a bar with trendy light fittings and furniture; an old-fashioned telephone booth stands next to a DVD library; a grandfather clock by the entrance to an über-modern restaurant.
Our room - a deluxe junior suite - also mixes the old and the new. There are elegant fabrics next to exposed brickwork, a huge leather headboard, striking curtains, antique furniture and a Bose stereo system. Best of all are the glass doors that swing open onto a breathtaking view over the Weald.
Here is a hotel that is conscious of its setting: on the coffee table lies a book celebrating the South Downs; the rooms are named after flowers and local beauty spots; and the balconies have silver plaques outlining the features in sight. From ours we read about the myth of the Devil's Dyke - just visible in the distance, where the hills roll up into the horizon.
Back inside, it is the bathroom that is most impressive. There is a free-standing bath, from which you can watch a flat-screen television, and a huge shower - almost a room in itself.
The attention to detail does not stop with the decor. I liked the notes updating guests about the weather forecast, the local produce served at breakfast - and the pillow menu, from which you can choose to sleep on pillows infused with scents (such as lavender and manuka) or made from different materials.
South Lodge Hotel is a great setting from which to walk and cycle, visit local vineyards and gardens, or play golf - guests are offered a discount at a nearby course. But whether you are coming for a romantic break or a business trip - and this hotel will satisfy on both counts - you will pay for the experience. Rooms start at £150 a night - and those are likely to be north-facing. For a suite with views over the South Downs, you can pay up to £630 - though for this you can press a button in your headboard and have a flat-screen television emerge from the base of the bed.
We eat in the new Pass restaurant: a fine-dining experience in which you sit at the edge of the kitchen and watch your meal being prepared, with close-ups on the screens that flank the tables. Our seven-course tasting menu (a hefty £68 each) started with roast scallops and sweetcorn, covered in Jerusalem artichoke veloute. Then there was spiced tuna carpaccio, terrine of ham hock, loin of lamb - all of which were really enjoyable - and a halibut dish that would have been excellent if the fish had not been slightly overcooked. The puddings - vanilla pannacotta followed by chocolate marquise - were delicious; and each course came with an interesting glass of wine.
Overall, we had a lovely evening at the Pass and it is an experience that is certainly worth trying at least once. If you want to do it more cheaply, I would recommend going at lunchtime when there is a five-course menu for £28 a head. Next time, however, I will try the hotel's more traditional Camellia restaurant, which is in a charming, old-fashioned room and on our visit seemed to have more of a buzz.
The verdict: The South Lodge is a charming space, in a beautiful setting, and a lovely base from which to explore the Downs.
The cost: Standard doubles from £150 per night, suites from £380, room-only. Continental breakfast is £13.50; full English £15 .
