The top table
The Bund has several destination restaurants, with interiors to match. Jean-Georges is dark and dramatic and Laris is a marble palace (both are at www.threeonthebund.com). Sun with Aqua (2/F, 6 Bund, Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu; 00 86 21 6339 2779) allows you to sample sushi while exotic sea life glides by in the whale-sized aquarium.
If you want spectacular views, put your taste buds in the hands of Paul Pairet at Jade on 36. Those with slimmer wallets can choose from an array of bustling eateries offering local fare. Dumplings are best at Dong Bei Ren (1 Shaanxi Lu by Yanan Lu; 00 86 21 5228 9898), where servers serenade you with folk songs; and lamb comes no tastier than in the city's Xinjiang restaurants - from China's western Muslim province: try Uighur, 1 Shaanxi Nan Lu by Yanan Lu; 00 86 21 6255 0843.
The place to stay
If you're staying for a week or more and don't have friends in the city with de luxe guest facilities, then rent out an apartment and pretend you live there yourself. Inn Shanghai offers a selection of stylishly renovated French Concession flats starting at £40 a night. A maid service is included, so that leaves you plenty of time for grocery shopping.
The Old House Inn is a compromise for those who want a feel of the busy French Concession area but can't face sifting through dried duck tongues in the market. The villa has been restored with wooden floors and Ming dynasty furniture to create a very zen spot away from the zippy streets. Doubles start at £50.
For wow factor, the Grand Hyatt wins effortlessly. Not surprising for the world's highest hotel (it's in the 420-metre Jin Mao Tower). Check out the atrium, above, which spirals up a dizzying 33 flights from the 54th-floor Patio Lounge. Doubles start at about £250 a night.
Fads and fashions
Western pop culture is on fast forward and the current trend among Shanghai's youth is hip-hop. If this is your scene, head to Pegasus (Golden Bell Plaza, 98 Huaihai Zhong Lu) on a Thursday or Club Bon Bon (Yunhai Tower, 1329 Huaihai Zhong Lu) on a Wednesday.
Perhaps as a backlash against the frenetic consumerism that surrounds them, the city's 30-something high-flyers are embracing Buddhism and vegetarianism with new zeal. You'll find them lighting incense at the Jing'an Temple (1686 Nanjing Xi Lu) before visiting Shanghai's first organic restaurant, Shui Yuan, (One on the Bund, Yanan Dong Lu) for the vegetarian set menu.
Everyone's talking about ...
Money. Shanghai is a city of entrepreneurs. Young hopefuls feverishly learn the corporate languages of French, Italian (they're already fluent in English) and golf. Be prepared for your leisurely city break to turn into a crash course in networking, complete with job offers.
Others are directing their energy at creative enterprises. There's the Younik boutique at Bund 18, which sources locally designed garments; philanthropist Mr Yeung, who recently launched a foundation for budding fashion designers (www.chinafashionfoundation.org); and design collectives such as Eno. Are these efforts paying off? Ask the bohemia at YYs bar (125 Nanchang Lu) and Boona Cafe (88 Xinle Lu).
Here today
1918 Art Warehouse hosts a group photography exhibition, Existence, 17 April to 1 May, featuring six Chinese artists; look out for works by Zhao Hua Sen and Chen Qiu Lin.
Kong Gallery (kong@thesource.cn) is dedicated to UK graffiti next month featuring London Police among others. Not so interesting for the visitor maybe, but check the website for May events; a Chinese graphic art show is in the pipeline.
The big night out
One good thing about being an emerging economy is that brands are happy to offer you free champagne in exchange for a little recognition. So the nightlife revolves around product launches and bar or restaurant openings. If you haven't managed to secure invites to any such events during your stay, hone those networking skills, especially if you fancy sipping a red-berry martini and eyeing up the elite at new members-only club, Volar (99 Nanchang Lu by Yandang Lu). Designed by Philippe Starck, it combines baroque riches with Cold War bleak, but it's all fun really - particularly the jewel-studded Kalashnikov lamp-stands.
Those who prefer guaranteed entry and the taste of Shanghai's swinging Twenties, book tables behind the smoke screens at the Glamour Bar on the Bund. It teems with Shanghai beauties at the weekends. They sip mojitos at the bar and save their energy for all-night dancing at the new mega club Attica, a few doors down.
Neighbourhood watch
Neighbourhoods pop up almost overnight from the ashes of old warehouses or knocked-down terraces and it's all a bit soulless really. Avoid the purpose-built plazas such as Xintiandi and head for the boutique and cafe-lined capillaries that feed the main shopping artery, Huaihai Lu, in the heart of the French Concession. The best strip is on Nanchang Lu between Ruijin Lu and Shaanxi Lu. It's great for local designer gear and quality factory overruns. Head south a block to see the clothes above left, of local fashion designer Li Hong Yan at her new haute couture boutique, LG Design (Building 4, Lane 130, Jianguo Xi Lu).
In Taikang Lu you can poke around the craft shops. To plug into the art scene, head for the converted factories along Suzhou Creek.
Essentials
Virgin Atlantic and British Airways are in a price war with their direct flights on the Heathrow-Shanghai route. This month Virgin is winning by £10 at £408.90 return.
Visit www.smartshanghai.com for all club and bar listings and the latest nightlife events and comment.
Pick up a copy of free lifestyle magazine That's Shanghai in bars and restaurants.
The best guide out at the moment is Time Out's 2006 update on sale for £12.99.
