The first thing you notice about Tux is that it doesn't appear to be a ski resort. There are no dodgy discotheques, the souvenir shops flogging little wooden men on skis are deliberately well-hidden and, crucially, Tux - the collective name for the group of villages leading up to the Hintertux glacier in the Tirol province - is the only resort in Austria that offers year-round skiing. Not that the locals will allow you anywhere near the slopes until they have seen to your 'wellness', as they call it.
In practice, this meant that within minutes of arrival, I found myself smothered in goat butter, wrapped in what appeared to be a sheet of lino and, unable to move my arms, lowered into a hot bath. Though I wondered if I'd said the wrong thing, this is apparently standard practice. The villagers of Tux believe that skiing and spa treatments go hand in goat-buttered hand.
Standing on the top of the glacier the following morning - bewildered, but fully degreased and rather smooth-skinned - the appeal of the resort became obvious. At 3,250m, the glacier offers beautiful powdery skiing conditions, at what appears to be the top of the world, with the surrounding mountain ranges of nearby Germany and Italy jutting out from the clouds below. And not only does Tux offer year-round skiing and snowboarding, but fresh snow has already started to fall again this year, making it an ideal destination for anyone looking to sneak away ahead of the start of the ski season.
The wide variety of slopes cater for downhill skiers and snowboarders of all abilities. Even in July and August, there are around a dozen pistes available and about nine lifts open. However, during the peak season, which lasts from now until around May, there is a huge range of ski slopes on Hintertux, and it is possible to ski onto the adjacent slopes of Eggalm, Rastkogel, Penken and Mayrhofen. These are known collectively as the Zillertal 3000 Skiing and Glacier World, with 227km of pistes, halfpipes and skiing fun parks, all connected together and available to use on the same ski pass.
If you fancy a challenge, the decidedly breathtaking ski tour of the glacier might appeal - 72km of skiing, and a 1,750m difference in altitude from start to finish, including one particularly enjoyable descent of 12km, surrounded by the turquoise-blue ice falls that wind their way down the mountains.
Snowboarders will also find much to keep themselves busy, with Europe's highest World Cup halfpipe (100m), as well as the two Tabletops with four jumps, and a range of funboxes and rails.
Sweet valley highs
Down in the valley there are also plenty of things to do, making Tux an ideal resort if some members of your group are less keen on skiing. Because the glacier is so high up, it can be pleasantly warm down in the villages, yet at the same time snowing on the ski areas up above. There are 250km of marked trails for hiking through the mountain lakes and waterfalls, as well as opportunities for canyoning, climbing, cave trekking and mountain biking. The Tux hotels usually organise these events, providing experienced mountain guides, and equipment where necessary, and they are normally included in the accommodation price.
At around 4pm, the sun sets (actually, it becomes rather spectacularly hidden behind the surrounding mountains) and it is at this time that many skiers descend for a couple of hours to the Hohenhaus Tenne, a large wooden chalet set at the foot of the slopes. The chalet serves drinks - most popularly gluewein and schnapps - to skiers who, once refreshed, usually proceed to dance energetically to loud Europop music. The Hohenhaus does a very popular line in locally produced dance records, the lyrics of which always revolve around the immediate local area, its skiing facilities, and the wide range of drinks available. These are initially, perhaps, an acquired taste, but for a few hours after skiing and a couple of Lumbumbas - hot chocolate with rum and cream - they are impossible to dislike.
The food is typically excellent in the area, albeit with an almost dinosaur-like emphasis on meat. Wiener schnitzel and Tiroler grostl are popular, if weighty, local dishes which will keep you going after a heavy day's skiing. Vegetarians are well catered for however, with dishes based around tofu, barley, polenta, and a wide selection of root vegetables available.
Away from the hotel dining rooms, there are a number of restaurants around the area which offer another view of Tirolean cuisine. Particularly recommended is the Kaisermandl, in Vorderlanersbach, which offers a traditional "cottage dinner" of pretty much every kind of pork-based dish you can imagine, followed by the popular Kaiserschmarren, a thick pancake, chopped up and usually served with plum and apple sauce.
For those who can still move - after the skiing, several huge meals and a couple of glueweins - there are several late night bars and nightclubs further along the valley. The '50 cent nightliner' bus provides regular transport back to the hotels until around 2.30 in the morning.
Out of the cold
Accommodation in Tux is of a high standard, with most hotels offering spa facilities, and typically including saunas and swimming pools which can be used free of charge. Massages and all manner of spa treatments - some of which are goat-butter inspired - are highly recommended as a good way to wind down after a day on the slopes, and typically cost €30 for an hour long treatment.
For skiers with children, a new Play Arena scheme offers a comprehensive childcare facility, which will look after children over the age of 12 months, while providing a broader range of in- and outdoor entertainment for the older ones, up to the age of 16 - and for the whole day, if parents want to spend a full day on the slopes. The childcare scheme can be arranged through the many participating hotels.
As a low-cost alternative, the pensions - bed-and breakfast style facilities, often staying with a family in a private house - offer a good way to see the area on a budget, and guests are still treated to the typical Austrian hospitality.
Tux is not currently on the books of the main UK tour operators, making it a good place to come to if you want to avoid the usual tourist trail. However, it is easy to visit - if you book your flights and a hotel room, the hotels will help to arrange pretty much everything else. They can organise transfer to and from the airport - the closest airports are Innsbruck (approximately 1hr by car), Munich (2hrs) and Salzburg (2hrs) - which is usually best done by minibus-taxi, although it is also possible by bus. Many hotels also operate a shared-taxi scheme, where the driver will collect a number of guests from the same airport, thus reducing the cost.
It is also possible to get almost all of the way to Tux by train from London, changing at Paris, either Munich or Brussels, then connecting to Jenbach. From there, you can either take the light railway or bus to Mayrhofen, then a short taxi or bus ride to your hotel. This journey would typically cost between £200-300, depending on sleeping requirements.
Hotels will help to arrange ski passes and ski lessons if required - or, alternatively, many hotels offer guided skiing as part of their organised activities. A free ski bus is provided, which runs very regularly every day from outside the hotels to the start of the cable car a few minutes away.
Tux is a good all-rounder, offering superb skiing, but with a little more refinement than some of the major resorts in the Alps - and a character and hospitality that will suit anyone looking for an active but relaxing break without having to wait for the start of the ski season.
Way to go
EasyJet fly to Munich from London Stansted with prices from £22.99 one-way (incl. taxes) and return from £43.98 (incl. taxes). Contact easyJet.com or phone 0905 821 0905.
For details of how to get to Tux by train, visit Europerail.com
For information about activities in and around Tux, see www.tux.at, email info@tux.at, or phone 00 43 5287 8506.
Rooms at the Hotel Sport-Vital Central starting at Euro 86/person per day incl. half board with 5 course dinner and free lunch buffet as well; price varies with season (vital-central.at or phone 00 43 5287 8504)
For traditional Austrian food at Kaisermandl, book at 00 43 5287 86882.
Raucous après-ski can be enjoyed at Hohenhaustenne - see hohenhaustenne.com or phone 00 43 5287 8501.
