Bulgaria's countryside of stunning mountains, plains and Black Sea coastline is no longer the preserve of communist dignitaries; it is now more open to western tourists. Rich in history, it contains numerous ruins left over from earlier reigns, including those by the Romans, Byzantines and Turks.
The population of 7.7 million people, over 1.2 million of whom live in the capital, Sofia, is mainly Bulgarian. Owing to the earlier Ottoman domination a sizeable Turkish minority still live there, as do 800,000 Gypsies. Bulgaria's transition to a free market economy did not go smoothly and a succession of different prime ministers and the war in Yugoslavia did nothing to help.
The situation is hopefully now more stable, although environmental problems remain: accidents have occurred at a nuclear power plant north of Sofia, and pollution around Burgas on the Black Sea does the nearby resorts no favours. Bulgaria is also due to join the EU in 2007, but this is far from plain sailing. A series of Mafia-style contract killings highlight the problem of organised crime and corruption which, along with the judicial system, must first be addressed.
Best sites
· Bulgaria Travel. Comprehensive official travel guide.
· Bulgarian music. Information on all types of music from folk to classical, with audio clips.
· Melnik wine. History, locations and how to buy Bulgaria's best known export.
· Bulgarian monastery guide. Advice about visiting some of Bulgaria's monasteries - and the history behind them.
If you only do three things ...
Walk or ski in the Rila mountains not far from Sofia; visit Bulgaria's smallest and most romantic town of Melnik near the Greek border; and peruse the museums and monuments of Veliko Tarnovo.
News and current affairs
Bulgaria's online publications from the world news guide.
Language
Bulgarian, a Slavic language which, like Russian, uses the Cyrillic alphabet. Turkish and Russian are the second most spoken languages; English and German are spoken a little in tourist areas. Note that Bulgarians nod their heads to mean no and shake them to mean yes.
Climate
Lengthy cold winters, especially in the mountains where it is usually possible to ski well into April. Winter temperatures are below zero, but slightly milder on the coast. Summer temperatures average 25-30C (77-86F). Springs and autumns are pleasant, but it takes a foolhardy person to brave the sea in April or October.
Health
Vaccinations against typhoid, tetanus, hepatitis A and polio are advisable. Tap water is chlorinated, but generally drinkable; bottled tastes better and will put your mind at ease.
Food
Like much of south-east Europe, the diet is based around meat, potatoes and boiled or fried vegetables. Food can be very good, especially in summer when ingredients are fresh and meat will be grilled with fresh herbs in front of you. Shopsky salads (like Greek salad, with the Bulgarian version of feta) are tasty; banitsa, a cheese pasty, is delicious when fresh, but vegetarians may overdose on these. Vegans will struggle, but could stumble upon a spicy stew of aubergines, garlic and chilli. For those wanting foreign fare, fast food joints abound in the larger towns, but tend to be pretty dire. Bulgarian beer is drinkable, the spirits of knock-out quality, and the wine is generally better than what's exported.
Events
June-July: Stara Zagora: lively festival of Gypsy music.
August: Pirin: Pirin Pee folklore festival - performances of local dances and songs; Koprivshtitsa: annual folklore festival with musicians and dancers from different regions of Bulgaria; Rila: celebrate the birthday on August 18 of St John of Rila (Ivan Rilski) in the beautiful surroundings of the monastery.
October 18: Melnik: festivities to celebrate the wine harvest.
New Year's Eve: Razlog, Sandanski, Pernik, Petrich: torchlit Kukeri processions in nightmarish costumes through these towns.
What to buy
Wines and spirits: red wines from around Melnik; rakiya, a strong, cheap brandy, and mastika which is similar to ouzo. Attar of roses: scent from the Valley of Roses, near Plovdiv. CDs: Bulgarian folk music - open-voiced harmonies of mainly women's choirs (look out for John Peel's favourite, Le Mystère des Voix Bulgares). Handicrafts: locally made and painted ceramics, woollen rugs or even icons.
Embassies and visas
UK: Embassy of the Republic of Bulgaria, 186-188 Queens Gate, London SW7 5HL (020 7584 9400/9433).
Bulgaria: British Embassy, 38 Boulevard Vassil Levski, Sofia 1000 (359 2 980 1220).
Visa requirements: EU and US citizens do not need a visa; Canadian, New Zealand and Australian citizens should check with their embassy for recent changes in their situation.
Currency
£1 buys 2.9 Bulgarian lev (BGL). The easiest currencies to change are US dollars, pounds sterling and deutschmarks. ATMs can be found in the cities, but beware black market money changers who may fob you off with old currency.
Timezone
GMT +2.
Getting there
The national carrier, Balkan Air (020 7637 7637), flies direct from London Heathrow to Sofia, and there are flights from most European capitals to Sofia or Varna. Many agents operate package holidays to Bulgaria which can work out cheaper. There are train and bus links from the surrounding countries, but lengthy delays are possible on road crossings from Romania.
Related literature
Ballad for George Henig, Viktor Paskov: A Kafkaesque novel about a man of whom there is no official record.
The Truth that Killed, Georgi Markov: Memoirs of life in Communist Bulgaria by its most well-known dissident, famously killed on Waterloo Bridge by a poisoned umbrella.
The October Circle, Robert Little: Cold War thriller set during the Prague Spring, 1968.
