Why now? Because you can stay in the Unesco-listed medina following the opening of the city's first boutique hotel.

Getting there Tunisair (020-7734 7644, tunisair.com) from Heathrow, £198.50 inc taxes. Or BA (ba.com) from Gatwick, £99 inc taxes.

Where to stay Tucked away down a narrow street on the edge of the medina, behind a heavy wooden door is the Dar el Medina hotel (darelmedina.com). Winding marble staircases lead to 12 rooms arranged around courtyards. Inside there are antique bedsteads, colourful rugs and intimate alcoves. The dazzling white terrace gives a fantastic view of the rooftops. Doubles from €110 B&B.

Where to eat Dar el Jeld, just off Place du Gouvernement or Dar Belhadj in the medina - for lamb couscous amid tiled walls, intricately carved ceilings and flickering candles.

What to buy Head into the medina. Avoid the tat (furry camels, belly dancer outfits) and plump instead for pretty tea glasses, silver jewellery and leather belts and bags.