The Good Hotel Guide, published next week, includes 1,000 hotels of character, all of them tried and tested by our writers and readers.
The guide is truly independent: unlike many hotel guides, it takes no money, no hospitality and no advertising from hotels, so it can give warts-and-all descriptions. It specialises in places of character, many of them small, most of them run by resident owners. They vary from modest B&Bs and guest houses to luxurious hotels, some in converted palaces and castles. All of them give value for money in their category. Here is a selection from the 2004 edition.
Capital ideas
Hotel Rembrandt, Brussels, Belgium
Amazing value: Grasset-Gallais family's modest, well-run B&B, off Avenue Louise. Old photographs and jigsaws of Old Masters on walls. Simple breakfast.
· 42 rue de la Concorde, 1050 Brussels, Belgium (00 32 2 512 71 39). 13 bedrooms. B&B: single €39-€65; double €65-€90.
Hotel 16, Prague, Czech Republic
Newly renovated B&B hotel near botanical gardens. Small atrium; pleasant rear garden.
· Katerinská 16, 128 00 Prague 2 (00 420 2 2492 0636, hotel16.cz). 14 bedrooms. B&B: single K2,300, double K2,400-K4,200.
Hôtel de Vigny, Paris, France
Small, luxurious hotel near Étoile. Chic English decor. Lobby, small salon.
· 9-11 rue Balzac, 75008 Paris, France (00 33 1 4299 8080, hoteldevigny.com). 36 bedrooms: €395-€725. Breakfast €21-€28.
Bleibtreu Hotel, Berlin, Germany
Funky designer hotel near Kürfurstendamm, yet quiet. Good organic restaurant; good breakfast.
· Bleibtreustrasse 31, 10707 Berlin, Germany (00 49 3088 4740, bleibtreu.com). 60 bedrooms: single €142-€222; double €152-€232. Breakfast €15. À la carte meal, €25-€36.
Hotel Astra Vendégház, Budapest, Hungary
Below Castle district of Buda: stylish little B&B, quiet, clean, comfortable. Airy sitting rooms; cellar bar; courtyard.
· Vám utca 6, 1011 Budapest, Hungary (00 36 1 214 1906, hotelastra.hu). 11 bedrooms. B&B: single €80-€90; double €95-€135.
Hotel Barocco, Rome, Italy
At foot of Via Veneto: historic building recently renovated. Luxurious, spotless; managed by Franco Caruso.
· Via della Purificazione 4, 00187 Rome, Italy (00 39 06 4872001, hotelbarocco.com). 37 bedrooms, some overlooking Piazza Barberini. B&B double €210-€516.
Canal House Hotel, Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Irish owned, with a mainly Irish staff: unassuming B&B in bohemian Jordaan district. Attractive decor.
· Keizersgracht 148, 1015 CX Amsterdam, The Netherlands (00 31 20 622 5182, canalhouse.nl). 26 bedrooms: quietest ones overlook garden. Large breakfast room; bar for tea and drinks. B&B: single/ double €140-€190.
As Janelas Verdes, Lisbon, Portugal
Former 18th-century palace near Museu Nacional de Arte Antigua. Walled garden for breakfast. Lounge, library.
· Rua das Janelas Verdes 47, 1200-690 Lisbon, Portugal (00 351 21 396 8143, heritage.pt). 29 bedrooms: single €170-€295; double €182-€330. Breakfast €12.50.
Hotel Residencia Galiano, Madrid, Spain
Central, off Plaza de Colón, old-world charm: ornate furniture. Continental breakfast in room with rococo paintings. Air-conditioning.
· Alcalá Galiano 6, Madrid 28010, Spain (00 34 91 319 20 00, hotelgaliano.com). 29 bedrooms: single €90; double €175. Breakfast €6.
Lady Hamilton Hotel, Stockholm, Sweden
Bengtsson family's hotel filled with Nelson memorabilia. In pedestrianised old town (Gamla Stan). Self-service breakfast; salads, sandwiches available; sauna, plunge pool.
· Storkyrkobrinken 5, 111 28 Stockholm, Sweden (00 46 8 506 40100, lady-hamilton.se). 34 bedrooms. B&B double Skr1,690- Skr2,690.
Best for food
There are many luxurious and expensive restaurants-with-rooms on the continent, and also plenty of modest places offering outstanding cooking. Here are some of the best of both types.
Schloss Leonstain, Pörtschach am Wörthersee, Austria
Christoph Neuscheller's sophisticated hotel/restaurant in fashionable lakeside resort. Modern cuisine in formal restaurant and arcaded courtyard with fountain. Private beach across road.
· Hauptstrasse 228, 9210, Pörtschach am Wörthersee, Austria (00 43 4272 28160, leonstain.at). 37 bedrooms. B&B €63-€139pp. Set dinner, €35.
Hotel des Ardennes, Corbion sur Semois, Belgium
Maqua family's Logis de Belgique, in beautiful part of southern Ardennes. Welcoming, unpretentious. Garden, tennis.
· Rue de la Hate 1, 6838 Corbion sur Semois, Belgium (00 32 6125 0100, hoteldesardennes.be). 29 bedrooms. D, B&B €67-€82pp.
La Ferme St-Michel, Solérieux, France
Old farmhouse amid vineyards and lavender fields. Try the truffle menu in season (ending with crème brûlée with truffle). Friendly atmosphere. Dinner under the stars or in vaulted room.
· Route de la Baume (D341), Solérieux, 26130 Drôme, France (00 33 4 7598 1066, fermesaintmichel.com). 14 bedrooms. D,B&B €114-€124pp.
Georges Blanc, Vonnas, France
M Blanc's famous hotel/restaurant (three Michelin stars) near Mcon. Amazing wine list. Winter garden/ river terrace.
· Vonnas, 01540 Ain, France (00 33 4 7450 9090, georgesblanc.com). 48 bedrooms: €150-€450. Breakfast €23. Set meal €79-€140 (cheaper meals in associated auberge).
Residenz Heinz Winkler, Aschau im Chiemgau, Germany
Herr Winkler's smart, formal hotel/restaurant (Michelin three stars) in unspoilt little town, at foot of Chiemgau Alps. Huge wine list; large staff. Spa, garden.
· Kirchplatz 1, Aschau im Chiemgau, 83229 Bavaria, Germany (00 49 8052 17990, residenz-heinz-winkler.de). 32 bedrooms (most are large): €160-€260. Breakfast, €20. Set meal, €105-€130.
Relais San Maurizio, Santo Stefano Belbo, Italy
Beautiful conversion of old convent (heavy beams, frescos, antiques, works of art), on hilltop between Asti and Alba. Indoor swimming pool; garden with ancient trees.
· Località San Maurizio 39, Santo Stefano Belbo, 12058 Cuneo, Italy (00 49 0141 841900, relaissanmaurizio.it). 20 bedrooms: B&B €185-€320. À la carte meal €56-€73.
Hotel Hvala and Restauracija Topli Val, Kobarid, Slovenia
In small market town: Hvala family's spruce modern hotel with restaurant specialising in fish. Picturesque surroundings.
· Trg svobode 1, Kobarid, 5222 Primorska, Slovenia (00 386 5 3899 300, topli-val-sp.si). Garden (summer meals). 31 bedrooms. D, B&B €42.50-€70.50pp.
Hotel Ses Rotges, Cala Ratjada, Mallorca
French owner/chef Gérard Tétard's restaurant-with-rooms (Michelin star) in old mansion in a small fishing resort on the north-east tip of island. Shady courtyard for summer meals; beamed dining room. Beaches nearby.
· Calle Rafael Blanes 21, Cala Ratjada, 07590 Mallorca (00 34 971 56 3108, sesrotges.com). 24 bedrooms. D, B&B €89-€123pp.
Hotel Restaurant Can Borrell, Meranges, Spain
Forn family's rustic restaurant-with-rooms: old farmhouse in beautiful village in Pyrenean valley. Local specialities: rabbit, kid, etc. Nine bedrooms.
· Calle Retorn 3, Meranges, 17539 Girona, Spain (00 34 972 88 0033, canborrell.com). B&B double €73-€85. Set meal (residents only) €24.
Waldhotel Doldenhorn, Kandersteg, Switzerland
Maeder family's smart chalet-style hotel in mountainside village. Light, modern decor. Three restaurants, winter garden, terrace for summer meals; wellness centre. Children welcomed.
· Kandersteg, 3718 Bern, Switzerland (00 41 33 675 81 81, doldenhorn-ruedihus.ch). 33 bedrooms. D, B&B, Sfr155-Sfr220pp.
Cheap flight hotels
You can fly to some European cities for as little as £1. Once there, you can opt for modest accommodation or blow the money saved on the journey on somewhere luxurious.
Schlossberg Hotel, Graz, Austria
Old building, painted blue, on edge of Altstadt, now a stylish B&B hotel. Beamed, vaulted ceilings, rambling corridors, country-style antiques, paintings, inner courtyards, gardens, rooftop terrace with small swimming pool.
· Kaiser-Franz-Josef-Kai 30, Graz, 8010 Steiermark, Austria (00 43 316 80700, schlossberg-hotel.at). 54 bedrooms. B&B double, €146-€375. Getting there: Ryanair (0871 2460000, ryanair.com).
Altstadthotel Weisse Taube, Salzburg, Austria
The Wollner family's B&B hotel is a converted 14th-century Burgerhaus near Mozartplatz. Good breakfast (not a buffet).
· Kaigasse 9, 5020 Salzburg, Austria (00 43 662 842404, weissetaube.at). 31 simple bedrooms. B&B double, €95-€165. Getting there: Ryanair, FlyBE (0871 700 0535, flybe.com).
Domaine d'Auriac, Carcassonne, France
Luxurious hotel: 19th-century mansion with Michelin-starred restaurant. Large grounds (18-hole golf course, swimming pool, tennis).
· Route de St-Hilaire, Carcassonne, 11009 Aude, France (00 33 4 6825 7222, relaischateaux.com/auriac). 26 bedrooms. D, B&B from €130pp. Getting there: Ryanair.
Casa Païral, Collioure, France
Twenty-nine kilometres south-east of Perpignan airport: B&B in 19th-century demeure (Relais du Silence) near port. Walled garden with swimming pool.
· Impasse des Palmiers, Collioure, 66190 Pyrénées-Orientales, France (00 33 4 6882 0581, hotel-casa-pairal.com). 28 bedrooms: €70-€165. Breakfast, €10. Getting there: Ryanair.
Hostellerie des Ducs, Duras, France
Blanchet family's restaurant-with-rooms: converted 18th-century convent in small wine-growing town south of the Dordogne and west of Bergerac airport. Garden with swimming pool.
· Boulevard Jean Brissau, Duras 47120 Lot-et-Garonne, France (00 33 5 5383 7458, hostellerieducs-duras.com). 15 bedrooms. D, B&B, €58-€73pp. Getting there: Ryanair, FlyBE.
Le Corps de Garde, St-Martin-de-Ré, France
Stylish maison d'hôtes in the picturesque old town of Ile de Ré, offshore from La Rochelle airport. Harbour views. Charming decor. Large breakfast salon.
· 1 quai Georges Clemenceau, St-Martin-de-Ré, 17410 Charente-Maritime, France (00 33 5 4609 1050, lecorpsdegarde.com). 5 bedrooms: €90-€180. Breakfast, €10. Getting there: Ryanair.
Hotel dei Commercianti, Bologna, Italy
Off main square but reasonably quiet. Attractive hotel near cathedral. Bicycles for use of guests.
· Via de' Pignattari, 40124 Bologna, Italy (00 39 051 233052, bolognahotel.net). Thirty-four bedrooms. B&B double, €235-€454. Getting there: Ryanair, easyJet (0871 7500100, easyjet.com) to Forlì.
Schimmelpenninck Huys, Groningen, The Netherlands
Patrician house (historic monument), near market square. Grand Jugendstil lounge, two restaurants.
· Oosterstraat 53, 9711 NR Groningen, The Netherlands (00 31 50 318 9502, schimmelpenninckhuys.nl). 52 bedrooms in five buildings around courtyard: double, €85-€150. Breakfast, €12. Set dinner, €37.50. Getting there: Ryanair.
Villa Jerez, Jerez de la Frontera, Spain
Old mansion, in old part of town, newly opened as luxury hotel. Garden: saltwater swimming pool and tennis; gym, sauna.
· Avenida de la Cruz Roja 7, Jerez de la Frontera 11407 Cádiz, Spain (00 34 956 15 3100, villajerez.com). 18 bedrooms in three buildings. B&B double, €272-€403. Set meal, €31. Getting there: Ryanair.
Hotel Restaurant Can Barrina, Montseny, Spain
Catalan restaurant-with-rooms housed in a converted 17th-century farmhouse, 60km from Gerona airport. Lovely setting: views across Montseny national park. Terrace: swimming pool.
· Carretera Palautordera, Montseny 08640, Spain (00 34 93 847 30 65, canbarrina.com). 14 bedrooms. D, B&B, €84pp. Getting there: Ryanair.
Ferry stopovers
Stung by the competition from the low-price airlines, many ferry companies are now offering good deals to travellers wishing to take their car to mainland Europe. Here are some hotels that are good for the first or last night of the holiday.
Hostellerie Le Fox, De Panne, Belgium
In a seaside town 40 minutes' drive from Calais: restaurant-with-rooms. Michelin star for classic cooking by owner/chef Stéphane Buyens.
Walckierstraat 2, De Panne, 8660 West-Vlaanderen, Belgium (00 32 5841 2855). 14 simple bedrooms. D, B&B, €100-€135pp.
La Matelote, Boulogne-sur-Mer, France
By harbour and Nausicaa marine life centre: Tony Lestienne's Michelin-starred restaurant, with 29 bedrooms in adjacent houses. Safe parking.
· 7080 boulevard Ste-Beuve, Boulogne-sur-Mer, 62200 Pas-de-Calais, France (00 33 3 2130 3333, la-matelote.com). Double room €92-€185. Breakfast, €10-€12. Set meal, €35-€75.
Château de Montreuil, Montreuil-sur-Mer, France
Luxurious hotel in walled garden, in medieval hilltop town 38km south of Boulogne-sur-Mer. Owner/chefs Christian and Lindsay Germain have one Michelin star. Children welcome.
· 4, chaussée des Capucins, 62170 Montreuil-sur-Mer (00 33 2181 5304). 18 bedrooms. D,B&B double, €330-€395.
Le Brittany, Roscoff, France
In pleasant harbour town, 17th-century house by sandy beach. Good food in sea-facing restaurant, Le Yachtman. Garden, swimming pool.
· Boulevard Sainte-Barbe, Roscoff, 29681 Finistère, France (00 33 2 9869 7078, hotel-brittany.com). 25 bedrooms (avoid those in annexe). D, B&B double, €192-€260.
Le Valmarin, St-Malo, France
Françoise and Gérard Nicolas's B&B: 18th-century house, elegantly renovated, in small park near beach in St-Servan.
· 7 rue Jean XXIII, St-Malo, 35400 Ille-et-Vilaine, France (00 33 2 9981 9476, levalmarin.com). 12 bedrooms: €95-€135. Breakfast, €10.
Garden Hotels, Hamburg, Germany
Modern hotel in three houses amid trees and gardens, in quiet street in trendy Pöseldorf district on the west bank of Alster lake. Good breakfast, available all day.
· Magdalenenstrasse 60, 20148 Hamburg, Germany (00 49 4041 4040, garden-hotels.de). 59 bedrooms: single €125-€205; double €145-€280. Breakfast, €9-€11.
Hotel New York, Rotterdam, The Netherlands
Lively waterfront hotel, former head office of Holland America Line. Oyster bar, tea room, cafe/restaurant; winter garden, observation tower.
· Koninginnenhoofd 1, 3072 AD Rotterdam, The Netherlands (00 31 10 439 0500, hotelnewyork.nl). 72 bedrooms, many large, most with view of river Maas: €91-€208. Breakfast, €10-€12; à la carte meal, €25.
Hotel Park Pension, Bergen, Norway
Owned by Julie Helene and Fredrik Klohs: B&B hotel in two late 19th-century gabled houses, filled with antiques and paintings, in residential quarter.
· Harald Hårfagresgate 35, 5007 Bergen, Norway (00 47 5554 4400, parkhotel.no). 22 bedrooms. B&B: single Nkr600-Nkr840; double Nkr880-Nkr1,040.
Iturrienea Ostatua, Bilbao, Spain
Simple pension, filled with Basque paintings and curios, near cathedral. Very reasonable prices. Good breakfast. Small patio.
· Santa María Kalea 14, Bilbao, 48005 Vizcaya, Spain (00 34 94 416 15 00). 21 bedrooms: single €45; double €57. Breakfast €3.
Siglio XVIII, Santillana del Mar, Spain
Family-run B&B hotel 25km west of Santander on edge of medieval town. Old stone house with tiled floors, beams, swimming pool in well-tended garden.
· Revolgo 38, Santillana del Mar, 39330 Cantabria, Spain (00 34 9 4284 0210). 16 bedrooms: €60-€66. Breakfast €4.
Romantic escapes
The Guide contains many hotels in wonderfully romantic settings, often converted from remarkable buildings. The following are particularly recommended.
Château d'Hassonville, Marche-en-Famenne, Belgium
Rodrigues family's 17th-century chteau in huge park with formal gardens, peacocks, woods, lake.
· Route d'Hassonville 105, Marche-en-Famenne, 6900 Luxembourg Belge, Belgium (00 32 8431 1025, hassonville.be). 20 bedrooms (best ones in annexe). B&B double, €130-€280. Set dinner, €55-€85.
Stancija Negricani, Marcana, Croatia
Beautiful old house in rural north-west Croatia. Homely atmosphere created by Mario ("Jumbo") and Mirjana Modrusan. Swimming pool, tennis. Good local cooking.
· Divsici, Marcana, 52206 Istria, Croatia (00 385 5239 1084, stancijanegricani.com). 9 bedrooms. B&B from €30pp. À la carte meal from €20.
Steensgaard Herregårdspension, Millinge, Denmark
14th-century moated manor house on Funen island, in park with lake and deer reserve. Modern French and Danish cooking in large candlelit dining room.
· Steensgaard 4, Millinge, 5642 Funen, Denmark (00 45 6261 9490, herregaardspension.dk). 20 bedrooms: B&B double Dkr990-Dkr1,600. Set dinner, Dkr380.
Relais Sainte-Victoire, Beaurecueil, France
Near Cézanne's mountain; Bergès family's restaurant-with-rooms. Lovely views. Provençal decor and cooking (Michelin star). Large grounds, swimming pool.
· Beaurecueil, 13100 Bouches-du-Rhône, France (00 33 4 4266 9498). 15 bedrooms: D, B&B €92-€140pp.
La Commanderie, Loison-sur-Créquoise, France
On the banks of the river Créquoise, near Montreuil-sur-Mer: Marie-Hélène Flament's chambres d'hôtes with origins in Knights Templar fort.
· 3 Allée des Templiers, Loison-sur-Créquoise, 62990 Pas-de-Calais, France (00 33 2186 4987). 4 bedrooms: B&B double, €54-€61.
Les Deux Abbesses, St-Arcons-d'Allier, France
Stunning setting above the river Allier (with beach): old village perché: salons and restaurant in 9th/11th-century chteau; accommodation in village houses. Swimming pool.
· Le Chteau, St-Arcons-d'Allier, 43300 Haute-Loire, France (00 33 4 7174 0308, les-deux-abbesses.fr). 14 bedrooms: double €140-€350. Breakfast, €20-€25. Set dinner, €45.
Villa Crespi, Orta San Giulio, Italy
Amazing Thousand and One Nights fantasy (minaret, tiles, mosaics, frescoes, etc), on Lake Orta. Lovely dining terrace and restaurant. Fitness centre.
· Via G Fava 8-10, Orta San Giulio, 28016 Novara, Italy (00 39 0322 911902, lagodortahotels.com). 14 sumptuous bedrooms: D, B&B €128.50-€216pp.
Villa di Piazzano, Tuoro sul Trasimeno, Italy
Small country hotel near Cortona, nicely restored by the Wimpole family. Pleasant garden, swimming pool. Good organic cooking.
· Località Piazzano 7, Tuoro sul Trasimeno, 06069 Perugia, Italy (00 39 075 826226, villadipiazzano.com). 16 bedrooms: B&B double, €155-€230. Set dinner, €35.
Convento de São Saturnino, Azoia, Portugal
Restored 12th-century convent near Sintra, in remote valley (nature reserve) running down to sea. Eclectic decor. Garden, swimming pool.
· Azoia, 2705-001 Sintra, Portugal (00 351 219 28 3192, saosat.com). 9 bedrooms: B&B double €145-€160. Set meal, €25-€30.
Hospedería la Cartuja de Cazalla, Cazalla de la Sierra, Spain
Carthusian monastery (national monument), now a centre of contemporary art and culture. Good, simple food.
· Cazalla de la Sierra, 41370 Sevilla, Spain (00 34 954 88 4516, skill.es/cartuja). 8 modestly furnished bedrooms in gatehouse; 4 suites in cloisters. Double room, €70-€120. Set meal, €20.
· The Good Hotel Guide: Continental Europe 2004, edited by Adam and Caroline Raphael, is published by Ebury Press next Thursday. Price £16.99.
