First impressions: Wedged between the roadside and the river with great views across the Fal estuary. Imposing stone-floored lobby with sweeping staircase and wrought-iron banisters. It plays on a 360-year history: the guest book signed by Florence Nightingale is on show in reception, and Kenneth Grahame was inspired to write Wind In The Willows here.

What are the rooms like? The hotel is an amalgam of buildings of different eras. A recently restored suite has terracotta coloured walls, deep-pile carpet and a telescope. We stayed in a room of pastel colours and wood with Wind In The Willows decorations. Most rooms, but not all, have a balcony with views across the harbour. Make sure you get one that does.

The bed test: Big and firm double that turned out to be two mattresses pushed together. Sheets and blanket rather than duvets.

The restaurant: Terrace dining. Quality ingredients; dishes predominantly fish based - the plaice with lime was perfectly grilled. Wine reasonably priced, too. No children's menu but the chef is willing to rustle up something for the kids.

The bar: In the early 19th century, this was a 'gentlemen's residence' and the bar recreates that clubby feel: leather armchairs, sofas and colonial decor.

What is there to do nearby? Ten minutes' walk to the town centre and the new National Maritime Museum Cornwall. Beaches, gardens and the Eden Project are close by.

How much a night? Standard double room with harbour view from £115 per night B&B. Until the end of March, there's a special weekend deal of three nights for the price of two.