Six rural Greek koinotitas (communities) have joined forces to create a bold manifesto to protect their local crafts and customs. A handful of tastefully restored buildings are now inns, known as xenonas, and provide an inviting base from which to absorb some fast-disappearing local Greek traditions.
The islands
Oia, Santorini
The tiny clifftop settlement of Oia on Santorini is the undisputed romance capital of Greece. Neoclassical mansions once inhabited by rich sea captains line a marble-paved main drag. But artists prefer to bed down in the jumble of vaulted white cave dwellings carved out of the rock face, with interiors that feel like wine cellars.
Oia wins you over with croissant-shaped caldera hemmed with volcanic islets on the horizon. Below it, two harbours can be reached via a calf-trembling 200 steps. This is where you linger over a good fish lunch in the taverna and hop on a caique back to the capital, Thira.
The big attraction: The sunsets. Crowds gasp in unison over cocktails as the orange globe sinks into the Aegean.
Getting there: Fly to Santorini via Athens.
Where to stay: The Greek government auctioned off the remarkable small houses carved out of rock with domed ceilings, but Katakies is a stylish facsimile of Oia's architectural style and comes with a pool overlooking the caldera and Thira Town. Mediterreanean Experience (020-8445 6000, themed.net) offers seven nights' B&B at stylish Katikies in Oia from £680 per person.
Panormon, Tinos
The northerly Cycladic island of Tinos is the Lourdes of Greece. It's inundated with religious pilgrims who crawl up to the icon of Virgin Mary on August 15. The rest of the year, tourists simply explore its quiet beaches.
Panormon village is laced with dovecotes and belltowers - hewn from the same white marble as many celebrated antiquities. Modern-day sculptors who keep studios here sell their statues direct from as little as £10 each (shipping can arranged for bigger ones).
The big attraction: The icon of Virgin Mary, housed in the church of Megalochori. Temples of Poseidon and Dionysus.
Getting there: Fly to Athens, then hydrofoil from Rafina port.
Where to stay: Stay at Stella's Studios (00 302 2830 31341) with kitchen and courtyard, £32 per night. Or lodge in Pirgos with sculptor Saltamanikas (00 302 2830 31554), who rents out three apartments adjoining his workshop at £24 per night. Alternatively, Filoxenia (01422 375999, escape-packages.com) tailors packages.
Mainland
Papingo
This is arguably the most beautiful mountain retreat in Europe. Papingo is preserved down to the last dry stone wall, and the best-preserved of the 46 ancient villages called Zagorochoria in the mountainous north-west region of Epirus. It sits atop the spectacular Vikos Gorge, surrounded by rare wildlife (elk wander down the main street, bears lurk on the outskirts), birdlife and virgin forest.
The big attractions: It's a walker's paradise. Trek along the (E4) trail, past the turquoise blue Voiidomatis river, or kayak the Aoos river with outdoor specialist, No Limits Paddler in Konitsa (00 302 6550 23777). They organise interesting treks to the Greek/Albanian border; weekends cost about £30 each including food. Visit the World Wildlife Fund centre for full information on the area's unique flora and fauna (located in the old school, Micro Papingo, open all year round). Buy specially produced cheese, honey and tea from local Papingo vendors. Alternatively, Sterna, in Kapesovo (central Zagorochoria), sells tsipouro (Greek grappa), wines and special fruit preserves.
Getting there: Fly via Athens to Yannina.
Where to stay: Guesthouse Papaevagelou (00 302 6530 41135) is the perfect refuge, with 11 rooms built directly overlooking the Vikos Gorge and Mount Smolikas. Charismatic young owner George has carefully constructed the dwellings from local stone; each room has a private bath and fireplace. Eat breakfast on a large terrace or in the ranch-style lounge. €45 B&B per night. Filoxenia (01422 375999, escape-packages.com) tailors packages in the village but request the Koulis because it runs the best taverna in town.
Nymphaion
Wedged against borders of Fyrom, this remote hamlet (winter population, 10) is reached via a breathtaking drive over the mountains. Four wealthy families have restored exquisite mansions alongside immaculate stone houses and a schoolhouse. They have admirably poured their own funds in to Nympahion's attractions, such as the Arcturos brown bear sanctuary and a riding centre with rare Skyros ponies. Treks in surrounding mountain pasture are laid out on free route maps (from the cosy kafenion-cum-taverna).
The big attraction: Tour the nearby Prespes lakes, a protected wetland for pelicans.
Getting there: Fly via Athens to Kastoria, then one hour's drive.
Where to stay: Greek vintners Boutaris run a country hotel set in a large garden on the outskirts of town called La Moara (00 31 2870 626 or 287 401). Each of the eight rooms is furnished with wooden floors, and platform beds, while others have four-posters. The hotel also has its own restaurant and cellar stocked with 130 wines. Doubles £60 per night. Ederne (00 302 3860 31230-351) is an affordable option in the heart of Nymphaion. Doubles £32 per night.
Makrinitsa
This is one of the most popular villages on the lush Pelion peninsula, in central Greece, and is in danger of being loved to death. On weekends, urban Greeks pour in for a dose of nostalgia. The main pastime is to bag a seat in Makrintsa's square and order coffee with spoon sweets (preserved syrupy fruit), taking in the view of the Pagasitic gulf.
The big attraction: A dozen gorgeous beaches are within half an hour's drive.
Getting there: Charter flights to Volos, then a 40-minute drive, or via Thessaloniki airport and a four-hour drive.
Where to stay: Archontiko Karamanlis (00 302 4280 99570) is one of the best-preserved mansions with wall frescoes and antiques. £55 B&B per night. Alternatively, Tapestry Holidays (020-8235 7788, tapestryholidays.com) features the Archontiko Polimieri, in the village of Zagora, for £800pp per week, including car hire.
Ambelakia
This hilltop settlement in the secluded vale of Tempi is an ideal base for Grecofiles to explore the charming forested slopes and springs around Mount Olympus. Old houses retain their heavy oak doors and inner courtyards paved with limestone slabs.
The local claim to fame is that the hamlet's ancestors invented the world's first cooperative in 1778, exporting bright red Rizari dye as far as England and Egypt. Sadly, fortunes have dwindled and descendants of the Ambelakians, who resisted Ottoman rule and plotted the rebirth of the Greek nation, now sip coffee in the main square.
The big attraction: The Schwartz House is a spectacular mansion, full of artefacts.
Getting there: A two-hour drive from Thessaloniki airport, one from Volos.
Where to stay: Filoxenia (01422 375999, escape-packages.com) features the cosy, family-run Ambelakia Hotel (from £387 a week B&B with scheduled flights), which although fairly new has been built to blend in with the old stone buildings in the surrounding village. Rear rooms have panoramic views over the valley below. A roaring fire burns in the lounge, designed for lazy afternoons. Quirkily, all guests must wear slippers to protect their expanse of wooden floors from losing their shine.
Way to go
Getting there: Olympic Airways (0870 6060460, olympic-airways.gr) flies to both Athens and Thessaloniki from Heathrow, starting from £154 return. British Airways (08457 733377, ba.com) flies from Heathrow (and Gatwick from June 1) to Athens from £149. easyJet (0870 6000 000, easyjet.com) flies from Luton and Gatwick from £39 one way. Excel Airways (08709 989898, excelairways.com) operates summer charters to Greece from nine UK airports from £159 return. All fares include taxes.
Car hire: Holiday Autos (0870 4000011, holidayautos.co.uk) offers one week's rental of economy vehicle in July and September from £145 inclusive of all local taxes.
Further information: Traditional Inns in Greece is a detailed countrywide list of accommodation. Available in most bookshops in Greece (approx £3) or by mail order (£5) from: Vertical Publishing, Frakoupoulou 30, Athens 11525 (00 302 10 6719 455) Country code: 00 30.
Flight time London-Athens: 3 hours 45 mins.
Time difference: +2hrs.
£1 = 1.36 euros.
