Toulouse is friendly, fun and easily and cheaply accessible by budget airline. I went expecting industrial functionality from the hi-tech centre of modern France, but wandering down cobbled streets, I was enchanted by the elegant architecture, although my attention was torn between the buildings and the abundance of attractive goods displayed in their windows. Known as La Ville Rose or the "pink city" because of its distinctive red-brick buildings that change from pale pink in the morning to deep purple at dusk, the centre of old Toulouse is beautiful.
Its proximity to Spain may account for the city's laid-back vibe, but it's the students who give the city its happening edge. As a university hotspot, the second biggest in France, Toulouse has a vibrant cultural life, and there's always something going on.
With so many restaurants, cultural sights and tempting shops, my three-day break seemed far too short, and boarding the plane for the return journey on Sunday, I couldn't believe how much I'd done in a weekend. I'd gone from outer space to the middle ages, via some great shops and restaurants. Who needs Paris?
What to see Cité de L'Espace
Packed with hands-on exhibits and genuine space artefacts, the science park is a fascinating insight into the universe and our attempts to explore it. There's a life-size model of the Mir space station, complete with gravity-defying space toilets, and you can test your astronaut abilities with a range of interactive exhibits.
The Airbus factory
A plane spotter's heaven, guided tour parties are a bombarded with facts and figures. This vast site is a working factory so visitors are restricted to looking at partly assembled planes from a distance as workers move around the massive carriers on golf-style buggies and bicycles.
Churches
The Basilique St-Sernin is one of the biggest and most beautiful Romanesque churches in southern Europe, but the lesser-known Eglise des Jacobins is also worth a visit. Founded in 1215, the church suffered under Napoleon, who used is to stable 300 of his horses, but the ceiling is still a riot of ribbed red and green bricks. The artist Salvador Dalí was so taken with the ceiling that he used the pattern in his Santiago El Grande painting. Outside in the courtyard and restored cloister, you can hear concerts from July to September.
Canal and boat trips
A walk, run or cycle along Toulouse's peaceful canal and riverside paths is especially romantic when the city is lit up at night. There are plenty of operators running sightseeing trips on the canal and the Garonne. Most leave from the Quai de la Daurade or Ponts Jumeaux. Prices start from €8 for a 75-minute cruise.
Where to shop
Rue de Rome is Toulouse's main shopping drag, and the area is rife with cheap and cheerful shoe, handbag and faddy fashion shops as well as a sprinkling of designer boutiques, kitsch speciality shops and second-hand jewellery shops where the exchange rates can mean discounts of up to 20%. Rue de Rome and the other roads that run parallel to the river have yellow street signs, while all streets perpendicular to the river have white street signs, all of which makes navigation simple.
For a real flavour of Toulouse, visit the covered market at Place Victor Hugo, which locals will tell you is no ordinary market but a religion. My senses were bombarded by the smell of ripe cheese, freshly-caught fish, fruit, veg and garlic as I passed each mouth-watering stall. Open every morning except Mondays, the restaurants in the food court upstairs are excellent value.
The region is famous for woad which yields a fabulous blue/indigo dye. There are woad shops dotted around the city selling everything from chiffon scarves to baby boots in a range of beautiful blue hues. Keeping in with the purple theme is the city's other trademark souvenir - violette liqueur.
Where to eat L'Amphitryon
One of Toulouse's four Michelin-starred restaurants; don't be put off that this culinary powerhouse looks like a motorway service station from the outside. Inside it's understated, upmarket chic, inventive food and excellent service.
Chemin de Gramont (tel: +5 61 5 5555). Lunch menus from €29.75.
Restaurant Emille A cosy little place that is centrally located and has a great selection of fish, meat and cassoulet dishes from €17 each. 13 Place Saint-Georges (tel: +5 6121 0556).
Bateau Restaurant La Daurade Housed on a boat on the Garonne river, the restaurant serves fabulous fish platters ( la parillade de poissons ) with a sparkling river view.
La Paridillade de la Mer (tel: +5 6122 1033). Menus from €28.
Where to drink
Being a student town, almost every square in the Vieux Quartier of Toulouse has cafes that are buzzing day and night. Try place St-Pierre beside the Garonne for a young crowd, or rue des Blanchers for the alternative scene.
La Tantina de Burgos (27 ave de la Garonnette) and Bodega Bodega (1 rue Gabriel Péri) are popular wine bars that play live music on the weekend.
Toulouse also has a thriving gay scene and, whatever your orientation, the Shanghai Express (12 rue de la Pomme) is a fun and friendly club where you can dance till the small hours.
Where to stay
Hotel Beausejour This small and exceptionally friendly hotel is right in the centre and a bargain to boot. Make sure you book ahead though - it only has 14 rooms.
4 rue Caffarelli (+5 6162 7759). Rooms from €14.
Holiday Inn Toulouse Centre This three-star hotel situated in the centre of town (formerly the Grand Hotel Capoul) has a lovely glass-roofed reception and lounge area with art deco furnishings and chandeliers. The rooms are comfortable, and most are decorated in pretty woad-inspired violet shades.
13 place Wilson (tel: +5 6110 7070). From €113 B&B.
Way to go
Getting there:
Flybe (08708 890908,flybe.com) flies daily between Heathrow and Toulouse from £113 return including tax.
Further information:
Maison de la France, 178 Piccadilly, London W1J 9AL (tel: 09068 244123, calls cost 60p per minute, franceguide.com). Office de Tourisme, Donjon du Capitole, Toulouse (+5 6111 0222, ot-toulouse.fr).
Country code: 0033.
Time difference: +1hr.
Flight time London-Toulouse: 1hr 55.
£1 = 1.40 euros.
