I had come to Graz because Ryanair had a flight giveaway and the city, a mere 20 minutes from the airport, seemed like a perfect weekend destination.
As this year's European Capital of Culture, Graz should be firmly on the map as a short-break destination, especially as it is putting together a programme of cultural activities from Lippizan horse shows and music festivals to building a temporary, shellshaped island on the River Mur.
Capital of the Styria region, Graz has an old town with cobbled streets, tempting shops, green parks, red roofs and a snaking blue river. The people are friendly and they speak good English.
The city is remarkably cheap, too. It may be the high percentage of students who drive prices down, or the lack of tourists pushing prices up, but when eating out starts from 2.90 euros for a two-course Schnitzel meal, and a round of drinks costs under 10 euros, you have to work hard to break your budget. And whether in sunshine or snow, Graz is a great place to spend a few days exploring, unwinding and indulging in good food and beer.
What to see
Hauptplatz
At the heart of the old town is the Hauptplatz, or central square. Overlooked by the Renaissance-style Rathaus (town hall), it is a central meeting point buzzing with trams and students.
The Schlossberg
Standing guard over Graz is Schlossberg park. With paths on all sides, it's worth the 30-minute hike (or two-minute lift or train ride, price: 1.60 euros) for the lovely views over the city's rooftops. At the top, there's a military museum, bell tower, pagoda, open-air theatre and cafe as well as the emblem of the city, the Uhrturm clock tower, which is unusual because the larger hand shows the hour, not the minutes. Held to ransom by Napoleon, the locals stumped up 2,987 florins and 11 farthings to keep their clock intact.
Glockenspielplatz
Kitsch, but compulsory. Every day at 11am, 3pm and 6pm, two figures emerge from an upper-floor window to spin in time to glockenspiel music.
Landeszeughaus
This provincial armoury contains enough equipment for more than 30,000 soldiers, most of it dating from the 17th century, and some of it is so huge and unwieldy, it's hard to imagine how it was effective on the battlefield.
Landeszeughaus, Herrengasse 16 (tel: +316 1817 9810); adults: 4.30 euros.
Churches
Even people who don't do churches should visit the Stadtpfarrkirche. Admire the stained-glass panel on the left behind the altar. In the window fourth from the bottom on the right, Hitler and Mussolini look on as Jesus is tortured. The Mariahilferkirche is also worth a peek for its baroque facade.
Stadtpfarrkirche, Herrengasse 23, admission free; open daylight hours. Mariahilferkirchem, Mariahilferplatz 3.
Schloss Eggenberg
A short trip on Tram 1 brings you to the grand 15th-century home of the Eggenberg dynasty. It is riddled with astronomical themes: there are 365 windows, 24 staterooms and a Planet Hall with baroque frescoes of the seven planets that had been discovered at the time. The palace is closed in winter, but go to see the park that looks like the set of a Russian novel as peacocks strut around in the snow.
Eggenbergen Allee 90 (tel: +316 5832 640) admission to park 1 euro, admission to park, staterooms and museums adult/concession/family 5.85/4.40/8.75 euros; staterooms/museums open 9am-5pm Tues-Sun Apr 8-Oct 31).
Austrian Open-Air Museum
Visit all of Austria at once. The 2km 2 complex, 15 minutes from town, showcases regional architecture from all over the country.
Österreichisches Freilichtmuseum, A-8114 Stübing, Mag Egbert, Pöttler (tel: +312 453700, freilichtmuseum.at). Adult/student/child 7/4.50/3.50 euros).
Where to shop
Graz has lots of tempting shops that aren't just the same designer chains that clog up most European high streets. Herreng is the main shopping drag, while Stempferg passes as Graz's Bond Street. On Saturday mornings, there is a flea market at Kelperstrass 15. Typical Styrian souvenirs include painted pottery, printed linen and the ever-Austrian stein, cowbell or statuette.
Where to eat
Erzherzog Johann Hotel
This elegant hotel (check out the plant-trailing atrium) has a fabulous cafe with gorgeous pastries on offer. The apple strudel was the best I've ever tasted. And they do great cups of English breakfast tea served with fresh milk.
Sackstrasse 3-5 (tel: +316 801616).
Altsteirische Schmankerl-stube
Schmanker is Austrian for a generous helping of regional titbits, and they don't stint on the portions in this cosy restaurant. Try the chef's special, Steirischer Ochsenfetzen, a delicious but salty combo of tender beef strips with sour cream and roast potatoes.
Sackstrasse 10 (tel: +316 6838311).Starters from 2.80 euros; mains from 7.50 euros.
Zu den
This is fast food, Austrian style - everything is fried in breadcrumbs and served with chips. Filling and very cheap, but fattening.
3 Goldenen Kugeln Griesplatz 4 (tel: +316 712500).
Landhauskeller
Once a spit and sawdust pub, this is now one of Graz's top restaurants, a great place to try local speciality Zwiebelrostbraten - grilled sirloin steak served with fried onions and sautéed potatoes.
Schiedgasse 9 (tel: +316 830276). Starters from 3 euros, mains from 10 euros.
Where to drink
Mehlplatz and Prokopigasse are the streets for inexpensive and lively bars and cafes. Slap bang in the centre of Graz's own Bermuda bar triangle is the Studio Café Bar on Prokopigasse. Smoky and studenty, it's open late and a fun place for a drink.
Glöck Bräu
This great bar attached to Glöck Bräu restaurant is cosy and quirky (note the Titanic bell on the bar) and was serving up free tasters of local cuisine between 6-7pm when I visited. My Weisswurst (white German sausage with sweet local mustard and rye bread) was delicious, and the bar bill was so small I had to check it with the barmaid.
Glockenspielplatz 2-3 (tel: +316 814781).
Zur Goldene Pastete
Graz's oldest inn is a good place to try some local brews with local food - look out for the ever-present pumpkin. The fruit is very popular in Styria with soups, seeds and pumpkin oil appearing on virtually every menu.
Sporgasse 28 (tel: +316 823416).
Continuum
With comfy sofas and a video screen behind the bar, this boudoir bar is another popular student haunt.
Sporgasse 29 (tel: +316 815778).
Where to stay
Gasthof Pension Zur Steirerstubn
A great budget option that isn't a tram ride away, this popular pension brings a bit of rural Austria to the city.
Lendplatz 8 (tel: +316 716855). From 33 euros pp B&B.
Hotel Mariahilf
Just across the Mur from the old town, this old hotel has large rooms - some grand, others a bit tatty.
Mariahilferstrasse 9 (tel: +316 713163). From 44 euros pp B&B.
Grand Hotel Wiesler
Spend what you saved on the airfare by splashing out at Graz's only five-star hotel, which promises luxury on the banks of the Mur.
Grieskai 4 (tel: +316 7066). From 165 euros B&B.
Way to go
Getting there: Ryanair (0871 246 0000, ryanair.com) flies London Stansted-Graz from £21.83 one-way.
Further information: Austria National Tourist Office, PO Box 2363, London W1A 2QB (tel: 020-7629 0461, austria.info /uk, graztourismus.at).
Country code: 00 43.
Time difference: +1hr.
Flight time London-Graz: 2 hours, 10 minutes.
£1 = 1.42 euros.
