Bali has been on the travel blacklist since the bombs that killed almost 200 people on October 12 last year, and is still the subject of government travel warnings, including one from Britain.
You cannot keep a paradise island down for long, however, especially not one that has been serving up a morish cocktail of peace and pleasure for more than 30 years. Slowly the Island of the Gods is making a comeback.
The victims of the bombing are far from forgotten, with shrines and commemorations in their honour and many years of grieving still to come, but Bali has realised that, while preserving their memory, it must also move forward to save its population from mass poverty.
"Nothing here has changed," said Christopher Maclean, chairman of the five-star hotel managers' association, Casa Grande.
"Bali is still beautiful, the people are still warm and welcoming, and the infrastructure is completely intact. The image overseas has altered but people coming here now will see what Bali has always had to offer - a peaceful and beautiful island paradise."
Moving forward means a global tourism kick-start, part of which means there are some excellent deals on offer. Some of the best can be found among the growing number of private villas for rent, most of which sleep at least six people.
A good number of five-star villa owners have committed to a 30% discount until the end of May. All discounts are being calculated on an ad-hoc basis but a fair estimate would be a group of guests securing a 5-bedroom villa complex for about US$525 in low season (a saving of roughly US$225 per night on the normal price). Three couples could get a smaller but no less luxurious complex for about US$195 (a saving of US$85 per night on the normal price).
Each villa is like a private mini five-star resort enclosed in its own stone-walled compound either in town, on the beach or up in the verdant rice terraces. They are air-conditioned, boast sumptuous pools with attendant sundecks and loungers, and are surrounded by beautifully maintained grassy grounds dotted with Hindu statues. Sleeping, dining and living areas are separate, and some complexes come with their own meditation burés. Each complex has a seemingly abundant staff of cleaners, cooks, drivers and security guards. For examples check out Elite Havens Bali (tel: 00 62 361 731074; fax: 00 62 361 736391; email: info@elitehavens.com), a highly respected villa management company.
For sheer beauty and space go for Umah Di Beji; for a more intimate sojourn with a smaller group try Pangi Gita; and for urban style within a short walk of shops and restaurants try Santai in Seminyak, or LiaMika in Oberoi. Fitness freaks should pick Banyan Estate in Kerobokan because it has its own mini-gym and 12-metre pool.
Most of Bali's top five-star hotels and resorts have introduced excellent value-for-money packages that include reduced rates, bonus nights and other perks. Guests at the superb Legian can get a variety of deals including room and suite upgrades, and free breakfasts and evening meals. Details can be gleaned from contacting the hotel direct (tel: 00 62 361 730622; fax: 00 62 361 730623; email: legian@ghmhotels.com).
The Club at the Legian is the best Bali has on offer, a blend of Zen symmetry and Balinese warmth. Ten private, walled compounds each house a lavish and spacious one-bedroom villa with dark Terrazo floors and skirted on two sides by koi carp ponds with Talas plants, and an outdoor hot tub so vast it takes a good 45 minutes to fill.
Each villa has a 10-metre, turquoise-tiled pool complete with temple statue standing on its own tiny island. At night the pool, temple and garden are all beautifully lit for pure romance. If it is raining there is a TV/DVD player, a library of films, a CD player, free minibar and tall fluted glass tubes of vodka, gin and whisky that can be replenished 24 hours a day, and personal butler to do everything for you.
All Club guests have full access to the main Legian hotel's services. Golf buggies ferry you across the road to the infinity pools, cushioned day beds, gym, spa and superb restaurant. To top it off the Legian is on a sublime stretch of the beach with fine sand and good waves for boogie-boarding and swimming.
Close on the heels of The Club is the Four Seasons Resort at Jimbaran Bay (tel: 00 62 361 701010; fax: 00 62 361 701022) with homely villas, plunge pools and day beds. The décor is colourful and Mediterranean and it has the most comfortable beds on the island. The Sensual Bali Experience, valid until May 31, includes a one-bedroom villa, and daily a la carte breakfast served in the restaurant or in the villa for US$425 per room per night (US$150 cheaper than the standard rate for a one-bedroom villa).
The hotel does Ocean and River packages, valid until December 25, including a stay at its excellent sister property at Sayan up in the hills near Ubud (rates vary).
The Oberoi (tel: 00 62 361 730361; fax: 00 62 361 730791) is the best known and one of the oldest Bali five-stars and has maintained an enviable reputation drawing thousands of return guests each year, including Kylie Minogue. Your best bet is to take a room rather than a pool villa. They are better value and you really don't need a private pool as the main one with its sandstone turtle fountains and colourful parasols is stunning and right on the beach so it catches the cooling on-shore breezes. The Oberoi's restaurant does fabulous Indonesian and Indian dishes, especially the giant river prawns.
The hotel has introduced the Oberoi Enchantment package with a Luxury Villa Ocean View for US$495 per night for minimum 3-4 nights (US$420 per night if you stay 7 nights or more, and the rates drop the longer you stay), and includes limousine airport transfers, champagne breakfast, massages, and a dinner and local dance performance.
The best of the rest
The Resor Seminyak (tel: 00 62 361 730814; fax: 00 62 361 730815) is just about the best four-star, with great value rooms and a charming and attentive staff. It's all right on the beach next to The Legian and to the excellent Ku De Ta restaurant. A discount valid until end of March includes a standard room for US$53 instead of US$119, and guests can get bonus nights through Tradewinds UK (tel: 0870 751 0006).
The Nusa Dua Beach Hotel (Tel: 00 62 361 771210; fax: 00 62 361 771229) has a special Internet rate valid until October 31, 2003: Superior room for US$120 (US$30 less than the standard rate of US$150), Deluxe room for US$136 instead of U$170), Family room for four people for US$168 (standard rate was US$210). Taxes of 21% are extra.
The Bali Hyatt (tel: 00 62 361 281234; fax: 00 62 361 287693) in Sanur is offering a Lover's Escape Package valid until June 30, 2003: US$110 per room per night, including return airport transfers, 20% discount on a romantic dinner at the hotel, a Romance and Intimacy Massage for two adults (20 minutes) at the Spa, and a 20% discount on any other treatments at the hotel spa. Taxes of 21% are extra.
The vast Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel (tel: 00 62 361 751067; fax: 00 62 361 753988) in South Kuta has a Free and Easy Package valid until June 30 2003: Ocean-facing rooms from US$69 per night. Taxes are extra but rate includes one free buffet dinner for two people, return airport transfers, and free entry to MUSRO Clubber Zone (cabaret Wed to Sun).
· As Bali is still under a travel advisory warning, please check the latest security situation at the Foreign Office website.
