· You can find plenty of guides and muleteers in Marrakesh, or at the trailhead (Imlil). We didn't, as it is very straightforward; however, the initial slog to the hut is long and rises to 3200m, so help with your bags would be good. The ascent of Toubkal is another slog, and a night (preferably two) at the hut is essential to acclimatise, as headaches are the norm. Ice axes and crampons are unnecessary, although when we went in May, the night temperatures were below minus five degrees Celsius, and it snowed a good three inches. Warm and sensible (i.e., not cotton) clothes and easily cookable food are a must. The short answer regarding Toubkal is why bother? It is very much like climbing a slag heap: you take two steps up and slide back one. The views from the top are expansive but hardly attractive. It would be much better to avoid the crowds and spend a few days trekking, staying in local villages and meeting the people! The maps are appalling by the way.
Bill Hombersley

· Make your way to the hotel Ali, just off the Djma el Fnaa (the main square) in Marrakesh. It's the main backpackers hotel and one of the few places in Marrakesh where you can get to see, but not buy, a map of the High Atlas. Maps are strictly the property of the guides and are hard to get hold of for do-it-yourself walkers. As soon as you show an interest in trekking, you will be surrounded by would-be fixers and can take your pick. Three years ago we arranged a four-day trek, staying in Berber houses, with meals cooked by the guide and a mule to carry luggage and, occasionally, us (one at a time!) for about £40 a day for two. In March, we were told we would need ice axes etc for Mount Toubkal itself, but I don't know about May. We walked an easy 15km a day, and it was a fantastic experience. You can do it cheaper by going to the village of Imlil and making direct contact with a guide. Take your own sleeping bag - we hadn't planned our trip so had to use the dubious blankets provided by our hosts. Absolutely all food, drink, fuel etc has to be carried with you, as villages are extremely remote and poor and have nothing to sell. Your guide will buy all that's needed. Wish I were going again.
G Falk

· Although it is possible to contact Mountain Guides once you get to Marrakesh, all the best ones are booked up well in advance, especially during the spring high season. English-speaking guides are rare. Luckily, one of the best guides, Nour Mohamed, speaks English, as well as French and Berber (tel: 00-212-44-302189, fax: 00-212-44-341691 or mobile: 00-212-68-884379). Mount Toubkal (4100m) is best climbed during a week's trekking trip to adjust to the height and to get the best out of the environment. However, a straight "up and down" trip from Imlil can be achieved in two or three days. The guide will arrange all food and accommodation, as well as porterage of your baggage by mule. There are many gires available to sample the local dwellings, but they are all of a very basic standard. For an early May trip, crampons may be required, but not by the end of May. One extra point: in Morocco there is a standard handling charge of 70p for each travellers cheque exchanged, regardless of denomination. It is best to use either high denomination travellers cheques or to use cash (the Euro is recommended). The exchange rate is controlled, so you will find the rate is the same in hotels or banks.
Kay Whittle