A short flight beyond the crowds of Rio de Janeiro, samba is still king but the upbeat mood goes on way after Carnival. South Americans have long known about the glorious beaches, sumptuous food and ecological wonders that have made southern Brazil an all-year-round hotspot. Now, Europeans are waking up to its diversity prompted by an extremely favourable exchange rate.
Most head for Santa Catarina state. Part of the capital, Florianopolis, is on a 70km-long island, Ilha Santa Catarina, that boasts more than 40 beaches. They provide the perfect stage for every conceivable type of holiday, from diving with dolphins to partying on the sands.
Carnival
Every year, Brazil comes to a halt for the four days of Carnival. This year it begins on March 1, and in Florianopolis thousands will watch the main event from the Sambadromo, close to the city centre, which comprises two huge stands straddling a wide road through which the procession passes.
Hotels along the city's main seafront road are a short taxi ride away and offer beautiful views. Baia Norte Palace Hotel (+482293144, baianorte.com.br) is one of the closest. Rooms for three people are £100 for three nights during Carnival.
There are two kinds of Carnival: the official event that people pay to see, and the unofficial street gatherings. The official event is treated very seriously. The competing samba schools prepare for this all year, creating costumes, dances and composing a samba song. In Florianopolis, there are four schools, each with 2,500 participants taking part in the first procession on Saturday night. Spectators pay £3 to watch the night's spectacular fusion of colour and music. The winners parade again on the final day of Carnival.
Many Brazilians prefer to bring Carnival to their own street, blocking it off with a procession of wild costumes and non-stop dancing. It may then continue into the various clubs that have special Carnival nights. No one gets in without a costume.
The beaches
Canasvieiras
The size, beauty and substantial infrastructure of Canasvieiras has made it the most popular beach on the island. The sea is calm and warm, the breeze gentle and constant and the off-shore views of islands and mountains are breathtaking.
It has dozens of restaurants and bars, and a high-season serviced one double-bedroomed room in an apartment block costs from about £15 a night (+482665794, reserves@rentahouse.com.br or sunhousing.com.br). There are also plenty of campsites next to the beaches.
Restaurants abound in Canasvieiras, but for a really special experience, try Chico's Bar Dandolini (+482665920, Avenida Milton Leite). Watch the white surf roll in under the stars and wriggle your toes in the cool sand as you savour dishes of File de Peixe a Copacabana or a Sequencia de Frutos de Mar , that provide a meal for two for £5.
Stay on the beach and flip-flop 400m for some live music at the old pirate hang-out, Aldeia dos Piratas (Rua Alphonso Cardoso, 40p cover charge) . Then head for the top dance spot, Clube Ilheu ( +482664378, Avenida Milton Leitetel, £3 entrance) . There's music from western rock to Brazilian pop, samba, bossa nova and reggae.
Barra da Lagoa
Heading east, Barra da Lagoa may be smaller than Canasvieiras, but this is no quiet fishing outpost. The beach hosts events ranging from volleyball championships to rock concerts, while for swimmers the sea is cool and crystal clear.
Barra is very picturesque, characterised by a narrow inlet that runs up to a small bay. You can walk on a rope bridge over this to browse among the fishermen's houses. Accommodation here is mostly in the form of pousadas - a type of condominium apartment that start from about £12 (+482323253, Ville Del 'Este, guiafloripa.com.br)
Of the restaurants, check out the Isadora Duncan Bistro (+482327210, isadoraduncan.cjb.net) which overlooks the lagoon and has an exclusive menu, including File Carismatico - fillet steak cooked in mustard sauce.
Then, head to the beach for an all-night party. There's a large stage built for the free weekend rock and reggae concerts. Watch these from the beach bars where most drinks cost under 70p.
Alternatively, take a 10-minute taxi ride to the partying capital of Florianopolis, Lagoa de Conceicao. Here, take your pick from a dozen dance clubs and bars. These include Latitude 27 (+482342420), full of boisterous Brazilians; The John Bull Pub (+482320709) is a very un-English place where a mixed crowd come to see some very good rock bands, and Cachacaria da Ilha (+483344208) offers a varied range of music.
Pantano do Sul
The south of the island stands proudly apart from the more commercial north. Here, the way of life of the inhabitants has changed little from their Azorian ancestors who colonised the island in the 18th century. There are few buildings along the wide arc of beach that is partially enclosed by a mountain which affords glorious views of the shoreline. And from the beach, it provides a spectacular backdrop for your swim or lunch.
For all mod-cons, Pousada de Pescador (+482377122, contacto@pousadadopescador.com.br) has apartments near the sea from £16 a day. However, accommodation here is often arranged on a more informal basis - look out for the "Aluga" ("for rent" signs outside some of the private cottages.
Most restaurants are in the central part of the beach, and shellfish and crustaceans are a speciality. Try the Prawn Stroganoff at Pedacinho do Ceu (+482377280) for a meal that will cost about £8.
Pantano is not a partying place. But if you enjoy tranquility at night, it's a perfect haven.
Whale-watching
An hour's drive to the south of Florianopolis, Garopaba is the place to be if you want to see whales. Hunted almost to extinction, the southern right whale had disappeared from these waters by 1973. Since then, protected by law, it has returned. The whales migrate from Antarctica in February searching for warmer waters and richer food supplies. In May, they give birth, and can be seen resting and playing with their calves a short distance off-shore.
The Institute of the Southern Right Whale's official excursion operators Vida, Sol e Mar, takes groups of 12 out in a motor boat (+482 544 198/9, videsolmar.com.br, turismo@videsolmar.tur.br, £20 for adults and £15 child at weekends, £12/£7 on a weekday) to see these gentle 16m giants in the bays. Whales can be seen as early as March but they are more abundant between June and September. After an hour, the boat lands 20km down the coast and you are ferried back by bus. Five per cent of the cost of the trip goes towards environmental projects. Alternatively, if you have a car, phone the whale hotline (+4899730977) for information on the latest sightings and their location.
The whales often come within 100m of the shore, and sightings can be made from the beach - on a good day, you might come within about 100m of an entire family. By November, the whales have headed south again, leaving the dolphins and penguins to entertain the tourists. Take a £3 scuna boat ride lasting four hours (+482 661810, scunasul.com.br) from Canasvieiras beach to observe them.
Way to go
Getting there: Varig via Sao Paulo from £630 return including all taxes. Contact Brazil flight specialist Allison Brothers (0870 747 4707, fax: 020-74091563, sales@allisonbrothers.com. For car hire, contact Gustavo at Lemans (+482229999, lemansrentacar@hotmail.com), from about £12 a day, fill it up for under £15.
Further information: The Brazilian Tourist Office, 32 Green Street, London W1K 7AT (020-7629 6909, brazil.org.uk); visit guiafloripa.com.br (+482717000) carries ticket information and listings of other Carnival events.
Country code: 00 55.
Time difference: -3hrs.
Flight time London-Florianopolis: 12hrs, 45mins.
£1 = 5.51 reals.
