For over a quarter of a century, the Good Hotel Guide has been leading its readers to hotels of character. The volume covering continental Europe comes out next week featuring 1,000 hotels in 18 countries in mainland Europe. The Guide takes no money from the hotels, and no advertising. It is best described as word of mouth in print, since much of the information comes from reports sent in by readers throughout the year. The hotels range from quite big ones, particularly in cities, to pensions , chteaux, manor houses and B&Bs. France has the largest number of entries by far (400): it is particularly well endowed with the personally run places that are favoured by readers of the guide.
Hotels in capital cities
The area of the city where you stay is almost as important as the hotel itself. All the hotels listed below are well placed for sightseeing.
Hotel König von Ungarn, Vienna
Said to be Vienna's oldest hotel (1815), it is full of character, and situated near St Stephen's Cathedral. Lounge/bar in atrium with trees, plants and easy chairs. Good food in vaulted restaurant (separately owned).
Schulerstrasse 10, 1010 Vienna (0043 1 515840, kvu.at). 33 bedrooms. B&B 91-130 euros pp. Set dinner 28 euros.
Le Dixseptième, Brussels
A stylish little B&B formed from two houses in a side street between the GrandPlace and the central station. Helpful staff, pretty courtyard, good buffet breakfast.
Rue de la Madeleine 25, 1000 Brussels (0032 2 502 57 44, ledixseptieme.be). 24 bedrooms (some with kitchenette). B&B 90-390 euros pp.
Hotel U Raka, Prague
A charming little guesthouse in two buildings on cobbled courtyards, up a hill near the castle's north side. Tiled floors, beamed ceilings, open hearths, modern metal and wood furnishings, paintings by local artists. Ample breakfast, elegantly served. Snacks available.
Cernínská 10/93, Prague 1, 118 00. (00420 2 205 111 00, romantikhotels.com/prag). 6 bedrooms. B&B 105-210 euros pp.
Hôtel Caron de Beaumarchais, Paris
In the trendy Marais, this is a romantic little hotel run by father and son Etienne and Alain Bigeard, and dedicated to Le Mariage De Figaro (Beaumarchais lived next door). Eighteenth-century decor; recorded Mozart.
12 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 75004 Paris (0033 1 4272 3412, carondebeaumarchais.com). 19 bedrooms (some are small) with mementoes of the playwright. 128-142 euros per room. Breakfast 9 euros.
Hecker's Hotel, Berlin
In the Charlottenburg area, Hans-Joachim Weber's hotel has glamorous modern decor (lots of glass, ceiling lights, angular furniture). Breakfast is a good buffet; there's a Mediterranean-style restaurant and a roof terrace.
Grolmanstrasse 35, 10623 Berlin (0049 30 8 8900, heckers-hotel.com). 69 bedrooms (some with kitchenette). Single 118-200 euros, double 130-80 euros. Breakfast 15 euros. DB&B is an additional 31 euros pp.
Hotel Astra Vendégház, Budapest
Down a quiet street below the castle district of Buda, Tamás Ersek's B&B is quiet, stylish and good value, housed in a white building over 300 years old but newly renovated. Airy public rooms; cellar bar.
Vám utca 6, 1011 Budapest (0036 1 214 1906, hotelastra.hu). 11 bedrooms. B&B 46-87 euros pp. No credit cards.
Canal House Hotel, Amsterdam
Irish-owned and run, this unassuming B&B, in a 17th-century house on a lovely canal, is a treasure trove of pictures, wrought iron, plants and ecclesiastic bric-a-brac. The large breakfast room looks over the romantic garden; the bar serves tea and drinks.
Keizersgracht 148, 1015 CX Amsterdam, The Netherlands (0031 20 622 51 82, canalhouse.nl). 26 bedrooms. B&B single/double 140-190 euros.
Gabelshus Hotel, Oslo
Historic building in leafy embassy area, a short tram ride from the station. Old- style Norwegian decor: carved wooden furniture, panelling, copper and brass, clocks. Tea, coffee and waffles available all day. Terrace for summer drinks.
Gabelsgate 16, 0272 Oslo, Norway (0047 2327 6500, gabelshus.no). 43 bedrooms (some with sitting area). B&B Nkr475-1,295pp.
As Janelas Verdes, Lisbon
An 18th-century palace beside the Museu Nacional de Arte Antigua. Paintings, antiques and objets d'art throughout. Rooftop library with honesty bar, telescope, terrace; walled garden for buffet breakfast (12.50 euros). Bus to centre (2km) close by.
Rua das Janelas Verdes 47, 1200-690 Lisbon, Portugal (00351 21 396 81 43, heritage.pt). 21 bedrooms (the best ones are very large). Single 155-225 euros, double 165-245 euros.
Lady Hamilton Hotel, Stockholm
In the pedestrianised old town, near the cathedral, the Bengtsson family - Nelson enthusiasts - have turned three old houses into a hotel/ museum packed with model ships, antique boxes, old china, rocking horses and much more. Self-service breakfast in room hung with embroidered pictures of ships.
Storkyrkobrinken 5, 111 28 Stockholm, Sweden (0046 8 506 40100, lady-hamilton.se). 34 bedrooms in rustic style. B&B Skr825-2,190pp.
Rooms with a view
Villa Dubrovnik, Croatia
Terraced on a cliff on the southern side of Dubrovnik, this striking modern building, set amid pine trees, offers lovely views of the old walled town and the island of Lokrum. Terrace for meals (good local seafood).
Vlaha Bukovca 6, Dubrovnik, 20000 Croatia (00385 2042 2933, villa-dubrovnik.hr). 40 bedrooms, all sea-facing, with balcony. DB&B 105-205 euros pp.
Le Prieuré, France
On a bluff above the Loire, west of Saumur, Le Prieuré was originally a medieval priory. Now, it is a luxurious and stylish hotel with a panoramic terrace and lovely gardens, set in a large wooded park. Good dinners and breakfasts.
Chênehutte-les-Tuffeaux, 49350 Maine-et-Loire, France (0033 2 4167 9014, prieure.com). 36 bedrooms (one is the former 10th-century chapel; some have a veranda and private patio). 75-295 euros per room. Breakfast 14-22 euros. Set meal 40 euros.
La Pérouse, France
Superbly set at the east end of Nice's Promenade des Anglais, on the hillside below the castle, with wide views of Baie des Anges: luxurious hotel decorated in Provençal style. Charming terrace with citrus trees and good-sized swimming pool.
11 quai Rauba-Capeu, Nice, 06300 Alpes-Maritimes, France (0033 4 9362 3463, hroy.com/la-perouse). 63 bedrooms (ask for one with balcony facing the sea). 150-720 euros per room. Breakfast 16.50 euros. À la carte meal 35 euros.
Albergo Belvedere, Italy
Tiziana Martinelli Manoni's large, white hotel set in terraced grounds above a picturesque little harbour and small stony beach on Lake Como. Lake views available from many of the bedrooms, plus the restaurant, the terrace where alfresco meals are served, and the swimming pool. Gardens are full of birdsong.
Via Valassina 31, Bellagio, 22021 Como, Italy (0039 031 950410, belvederebellagio.com). 69 bedrooms. DB&B 94-132 euros pp.
Grand Hotel Timeo, Italy
A beautiful 19th-century building, quietly set beside the Greek theatre with stunning view over its terraced gardens to Etna and the blue bay far below: Magnificent panoramic terrace. Good Sicilian cooking in elegant restaurant; Lucullan buffet breakfast.
Via Teatro Greco 59, Taormina, 98039 Messina, Sicily, Italy (0039 0942 23801, framonhotels.com). 56 bedrooms. B&B double 284-930 euros. Set meal 46-73 euros.
Hôtel du Parc, Luxembourg
A charming old manor house in wooded grounds above the river Clerve. Good value, with slightly faded elegance and clocks galore, it has a magnificent view of the historic little Ardennes town of Clervaux. Excellent food; cheerful staff; dogs, cats and birds.
2 rue du Parc, Clervaux, 9701 Luxembourg (00352 92 06 50, hotelduparc.lu). Seven bedrooms. DB&B 58-67 euros pp.
Casa Três Palmeiras, Portugal
An upmarket B&B with a multilingual Brazilian owner, Dolly Schlingensiepen. It stands on a cliff at the end of an unmade road above a small beach resort near Portimão in the western Algarve. Wonderful views of sea, sky, red rocks, beach and bay. Small sea-water swimming pool; sandy beach nearby. Five bedrooms, each with terrace.
Apartado 84, Praia do Vau, 8501-909 Algarve, Portugal (00351 282 40 12 75, casatrespalmeiras.com). B&B double 143-185 euros.
Hotel El Convento, Spain
The Moreno family's converted convent sits at the top of a hill overlooking an historic town of whitewashed houses. Spectacular views from the rooftop terrace and bedroom balconies over the plain of the Guadelete; many wild birds. Arcaded restaurant in nearby 17th-century palace: Michelin Bib Gourmand for regional cooking.
Calle Maldonado 2, Arcos de la Frontera, 11630 Cádiz, Spain (0034 956 70 23 33, webdearcos.com/elconvento). 11 bedrooms. Single 33-52 euros, double 46-78 euros. Breakfast 5 euros. Set meal 24 euros.
Hotel Schweizerhaus, Switzerland
High up near the Maloja pass, in the Engadine valley, Jürg and Karoline Wintsch's rustic wood chalet hotel has stunning views towards Lake Sils and the surrounding mountains from the panoramic restaurant and the large terrace, where drinks and meals are served in fine weather. Families welcomed.
Maloja, 7516 Graubünden, Switzerland (0041 81 838 2828, maloja-schweizerhaus.ch). 28 bedrooms. DB&B Sfr99-184pp.
Parkhotel Bellevue, Switzerland
Set in large grounds above a peaceful village in the western Bernese Oberland, the Richard family's holiday hotel has magnificent mountain views. Wellness centre with thalassotherapy, heated saltwater outdoor swimming pool (you can swim surrounded by snow), and large indoor pool. Two restaurants: one gourmet; one rustic.
Bellevuestrasse 15, Adelboden, 3715 Bern, Switzerland(0041 33 673 8000, parkhotel-bellevue.ch). 54 bedrooms, many with terrace. DB&B Sfr130-240pp.
For the gourmet
Tough drink-driving laws have led many restaurants in recent years to create bedrooms for their guests, and there are some famous restaurants in well-established hotels, too, particularly in France.
Restaurant Hotel Obauer, Austria
On the high street of a quiet village south of Salzburg, brothers Rudolf and Karl Obauer take turns in the kitchen, serving eclectic Austrian cuisine (two Michelin stars). Alfresco meals in summer, under venerable fruit trees.
Markt 46, Werfen, 5450 Salzburger Land, Austria (0043 6468 52120, obauer.com). 10 small bedrooms. B&B 64-128 euros pp. Set lunch 32-65 euros, dinner 39-65 euros.
Hostellerie Le Fox, Belgium
A modern restaurant-with-rooms, converted from three terraced houses near the seafront of De Panne, near the French border and Dunkirk. Owner/chef Stéphane Buyens holds a Michelin star for his sophisticated cooking (one menu is devoted to lobster). Excellent breakfast, too.
Walckierstraat 2, De Panne, 8660 West-Vlaanderen, Belgium (0032 58 41 2855, francemarket.com/sainte-victoire). 12 bedrooms. D, B&B 107-153 euros pp.
La Maison Troisgros, France
Opposite the railway station in Roanne, this is one of France's most famous restaurants (three Michelin stars), and is owned by the Troisgros family, pioneers of nouvelle cuisine. Relaxing atmosphere; friendly staff; interesting paintings; library of foodie books.
Place Jean-Troisgros, Roanne, 42300 Loire, France (0033 4 7771 6697, troisgros.fr). 18 bedrooms with contemporary design. 155-380 euros per room. Breakfast 24 euros. Set meal 130-160 euros.
Residenz Heinz Winkler, Germany
A famous old coaching inn, modernised and luxurious, in an unspoilt little town at the foot of the Chiemgau alps. Heinz Winkler's creative cuisine, in a large dining room, earns three Michelin stars. Huge wine list; impressive buffet breakfast. Spa with Roman-style bathing area and health treatments.
Kirchplatz 1, Aschau im Chiemgau, 83229 Bavaria, Germany (0049 8052 1 79 90, residenz-heinz-winkler.de). 32 bedrooms, facing mountains or gardens. Single 130 euros, double 180-270 euros. Breakfast 20 euros. Set meal 70-130 euros.
Hotel Al Gallo, Italy
Up a narrow street in the medieval centre of the former Etruscan city of Tuscania, this family-run hotel has luxuriously furnished public rooms and a sophisticated Michelin-starred restaurant.
Via del Gallo 22, Tuscania, 01017 Viterbo, Italy (0039 0761 443388, algallo.it). 13 bedrooms. DB&B 78-122 euros pp.
Kaatje bij de Sluis, Netherlands
In a beautiful little town (with narrow streets, patrician houses, horseshoe-shaped harbour), Fons and Anneke von Groeningen's restaurant-with-rooms is housed in a large, white building across a bridge. It has two Michelin stars (for French cuisine) and friendly staff.
Brouwerstraat 20, 8356 DV Blokzijl, Overijssel, The Netherlands (0031 527 29 18 33, kaatje.nl). 8 bedrooms. Single 115 euros, double 145 euros. Breakfast 18 euros. Set meal 45-62.50 euros.
Hotel Restaurante Maher, Spain
Owner/chef Enrique Martínez serves southern Navarrese cuisine at reasonable prices in his Michelin-starred restaurant (with green furniture, fig trees and multi-lingual food dictionary), in an old town north of Zaragoza.
Ribera 19, Cintruénigo, 31592 Navarra, Spain. (0034 948 81 11 50 , hotelmaher.com). 18 bedrooms. 90-180 euros per room. Breakfast 9 euros. À la carte meal 29-41 euros.
Auberge du Raisin, Switzerland
On a quiet lakeside road in a small village in a wine-growing area east of Lausanne, this old pink-fronted inn is now a smart restaurant-with-rooms. Two Michelin stars for manager/chef Adolfo Blokbergen.
1 place de l'Hôtel-de-Ville, Cully, 1096 Vaud, Switzerland (0041 21 799 21 31, relaischateaux.com/raisin). 10 bedrooms. B&B double Sfr260-550. Set meal Sfr85-195.
Restaurant et Hôtel Georges Wenger, Switzerland
Another famous restaurant-with-rooms by a railway station (in a small town near the French border). Smart, welcoming, very popular. Georges Wenger's cooking, based on local produce, has earned him a Michelin star. His wife, Andrea, is front of house. Small garden.
2 rue de la Gare, Le Noirmont, 2340 Jura, Switzerland (0041 32 957 6633, georges-wenger.ch). 5 bedrooms. B&B double Sfr270-380. Set meal Sfr135-180.
Luxury hotels
Hotel Gasthof Post, Austria
The Moosbrugger family's hotel (former imperial post house) is smart but welcoming, set in a large garden. Understated luxury; antiques, wood panelling, antlers, cuckoo clocks. Sophisticated gastronomic restaurant; apfelstrüdel with afternoon tea. Indoor and outdoor swimming pools.
Dorf 11, Lech am Arlberg, 6764 Vorarlberg, Austria (0043 5583 22060, postlech.com). 39 Alpine bedrooms. DB&B 130-800 euros pp.
Villa Gallici, France
Lavishly decorated, and smelling of lavender, this 18th-century manor house, situated in a quiet street just north of the historic centre, is Aix's grandest hotel. Meals served on a shady terrace or informally in the lounge. Luxurious swimming pool in lovely garden.
Avenue de la Violette, 13100 Aix-en-Provence, Bouches-du-Rhône, France (0033 4 4223 2923, villagallici.com). 22 bedrooms (some in summer houses, some with private patio). 245-550 euros per room. Breakfast 27 euros. À la carte meal 60-90 euros.
La Villa, France
Jean-Pierre Pinelli's glamorous hotel (designed in part as a Roman villa, in part as a Corsican monastery) on a hilltop in lovely grounds (with four swimming pools), outside the fortified harbour town of Calvi. Superb views; beach 1km; Michelin-starred restaurant (Mediterranean cuisine).
Chemin de Notre-Dame-de-la-Serra, Calvi, 20260 Haute-Corse, Corsica, France (0033 4 9565 1010, relaischateaux.com/lavilla). 49 bedrooms. 175-1,357 euros per room. Breakfast 19 euros. Set meal 60 euros.
La Domaine d'Auriac, France
Bernard Rigaudi is owner/ chef (Michelin star) of this handsome 19th-century mansion set in a large park (with Japanese garden, swimming pool, tennis, 18-hole golf course) near the hilltop fortress. Spacious, public rooms; friendly staff; unostentatious atmosphere.
Route de St-Hilaire, BP 554, Carcassonne, 11009 Aude, France (0033 4 6825 7222 , relaischateaux.com/auriac). 26 bedrooms. 99-382 euros per room. Breakfast 16 euros. Set meal 42-95 euros.
Der Schafhof Amorbach, Germany
On large estate outside a small town on the eastern slopes of hilly Odenwald forest, this is a former Benedictine monastery, now Vera Ullrich's smart hotel. Two restaurants: one with Michelin star; the other serving local dishes. Dining terrace with views. Lavish breakfast. Health/beauty treatments.
Schafhof 1, Amorbach, 63916 Bavaria, Germany (0049 9373 9 73 30, schafhof.de). 24 bedrooms, very comfortable. B&B 67.50-135 euros pp. Set meal 39-74 euros.
Hotel im Wasserturm, Germany
Amazing conversion of a 19th-century cylindrical brick water-tower in a residential area. Ultra-modern decor; lots of modern art. Rooftop restaurant; terrace for outdoor dining. Elaborate food; huge buffet breakfast. Garden. Free underground garage. 90 bedrooms (including duplex suites with spiral staircase).
Kaygasse 2, 50676 Cologne, Nordrhein-Westfalen, Germany (0049 221 2 00 80, hotel-im-wasserturm.de). Single 165-255 euros, double 200-355 euros. Breakfast 18 euros. Set meal 48 euros.
La Meridiana, Italy
In a beautiful, quiet setting in the Garlenda valley, inland from the Ligurian riviera, stands the Segre family's luxury hotel, run with a personal touch. Large, comfortable lounge; excellent local cooking (served al fresco in summer). Swimming pool. Golf course alongside.
Via ai Castelli 11, Garlenda 17033 Savona, Italy (0039 0182 580271, relaischateaux.com/meridiana). 30 bedrooms (all with balcony facing gardens/vineyards). 196-775 euros. Breakfast 18-20 euros. Set meal 41-57 euros.
Borgo Paraelios, Italy
In large grounds set in remote hills 40km from Rome, Adolfo and Andrea Salabè's hotel is laid out in country club-style amid gardens, orchards and terraces. Sumptuous public areas; rustic-style dining room. Beautiful indoor swimming pool; outdoor one, too; also tennis, golf, beauty centre.
Località Valle Collicchia Poggio Catino, 02040 Rieti, Italy (0039 0765 26267, borgoparaelios.it).15 bedrooms (some in chalets). DB&B 190-255 euros pp.
Kasteel Wittem, Netherlands
A moated 15th-century castle, renovated in neo-gothic style, in a valley east of Maas tricht. Now an expensive, elegant restaurant-with-rooms, owned and managed by brothers Peter and Marc Ritzen. Modern French cooking; lavish breakfasts.
Wittemer Allee, 36286 AA Wittem, Limburg (0031 43 450 12 08, kasteelwittem.nl). 12 bedrooms. DB&B 152-220 euros pp.
Cala Sant Vicenç Hotel, Mallorca
Set amid pine trees in a quiet resort (good beach), on a northern cape of Mallorca, this small hotel is run by the Suau family owners. Lovely public rooms; formal restaurant; trattoria; lunchtime grills by beautiful swimming pool. Gym, sauna, beauty farm.
Carrer Maressers 2, Cala Sant Vicenç, 07469 Mallorca, Spain (0034 971 53 02 50, hotelcala.com). 38 bedrooms. B&B 58.50-135 euros pp. Set dinner 48 euros.
Rural hotels
Landhotel Erlhof, Austria
Homely yet sophisticated farmhouse, surrounded by meadows, isolated across the lake from busy Zell. Forested mountain at rear; lovely views; garden: tennis, children's playground; private beach. Good Austrian/Italian cooking by chef/patron Gustav Lugerbauer. Scenic golf course close by.
Erlhofweg 11, Thumersbach, Zell am See, 5700 Salzburger Land, Austria (0043 6542 566370, erlhof.at). 21 bedrooms (most with lake view). DB&B 65-90 euros pp.
La Commanderie, France
In a tiny hamlet on the banks of the pretty river Créquoise, near Montreuil-sur-Mer, stands this chambres d'hôtes with its origins in a 12th-century Knights Templar fort. Lively hostess, Madame Flament. Good breakfast in room with log fire. Three country-style bedrooms (one good for family, with games room; one with conservatory and kitchen), looking on to the garden and river.
Allée des Templiers Loison-sur-Créquoise, 62990 Pas-de-Calais, France (0033 3 2186 4987). B&B double 54-61 euros.
La Ferme du Vert, France
A farm guesthouse set in a lovely half-wild garden, north of Boulogne. Run by the kindly Bernard family, it welcomes families. Courtyard with pond, ducks, geese, doves, kittens, labrador; mini-tennis, table tennis, bicycles for hire. Good farmhouse cooking.
Route du Paon, Wierre-Effroy, 62720 Pas-de-Calais, France (0033 3 2187 6700, fermeduvert.com). 16 bedrooms (some in barns). Single 51 euros, double 55 euros, suite 110 euros. Breakfast 9 euros. Set meal 21-36 euros.
Relais Torre Pratesi, Italy
A substantial pink-washed farmhouse that is run by owner/chef Nerio Racagni and his wife Letizia (they speak no English). Lovely, quiet setting: large grounds with swimming pool, children's play area, small "domestic zoo". Good, set, home-cooked dinners.
Via Cavina 11, Brisighella, 48013 Ravenna, Italy (0039 0546 84545, torrepratesi.it). 12 bedrooms (some in farmhouse, some, very large, in 16th-century fortified tower). DB&B 115-145 euros pp.
Castello dell'Oscano, Italy
Neo-gothic castle, imaginatively converted, amid pine trees in large grounds (with swimming pool), in wooded countryside near Perugia. Charming decor: handmade carpets, antiques, etc. Lounges, library. Good regional cooking; secluded terrace for summer meals.
Strada della Forcella 37, Cenerente 06070 Perugia, Italy (0039 075 584371, oscano.com). 32 bedrooms (some, in turret, some in 19th-century villa). DB&B 95-165 euros pp.
Villa Vannini, Italy
In large grounds above this old Tuscan town stands this delightful white-walled villa, reached up winding roads. Famed for its family atmosphere and excellent food, it has a homely sitting room, a pleasant terrace for drinks and tea, wide views.
Villa di Piteccio Pistoia, 51030, Italy (0039 0573 42031 villavannini.dadacasa.supereva.it). 32 bedrooms (some in turret, some in 19th-century villa). DB&B 67-82 euros pp.
Quinta do Barranco da Estrada,Portugal
In a remote part of the Alentejo, high above a huge freshwater lake, in gardens with birds, pets and flowers, stands Frank and Lulu McClintock's unpretentious family home, which is run in house-party style. Meals (organic home-grown ingredients) are served either under a pergola, or indoors by a fire. Children's play area; pontoon on lake.
Santa Clara-a-Velha, 7665-880 Beja, Portugal (00351 283 93 30 65, paradise-in-portugal.com). 8 bedrooms. B&B 45-135 euros pp. Set dinner 25 euros.
Quinta das Sequóias, Portugal
Candida Gonzalez's B&B is a finely renovated manor house on a hill in woodland outside Sintra, and offers superb views. Tasteful decor; good breakfast at large table in high-ceilinged room with minstrels' gallery. A wisteria arbour leads to flowered terraces, fountains, swimming pool.
Casa da Tapada, Ap. 1004, 2710-500 Sintra Lisbon (00351 21 923 03 42, quintadasequoias.com). 6 bedrooms. B&B double 145 euros.
Alquería de Morayma, Spain
Set in the foothills of the Alpujarras on the southern slopes of Sierra Nevada (good walking): converted farmhouse run by Mariano Cruz Fasardo as a centro-agri-turístico. White walls, beamed ceilings, interesting artefacts; large covered patio, vineyards, olive grove, ecological farm, outdoor swimming pool.
Cádiar, 18440 Granada, Spain (0034 958 34 32 21, alqueriamorayma.com). 14 bedrooms. Single 39 euros, double 49-59 euros. Breakfast 3 euros. Set meal 11 euros.
Posada del Valle, Spain
In a beautiful, peaceful location (great walking, wildlife and scenery) in the Picos de Europa, Nigel and Joann Burch's old priest's house stands in a small farm on a rocky outcrop on the mountainside: steeply terraced garden, sheep, goats, apple orchards, wide views. Good, simple cooking.
Collia, 33549 Asturias, Spain (0034 98 584 11 57, posadadelvalle.com). 8 bedrooms. Single 42-50 euros, double 49-62 euros. Breakfast 6 euros. Set dinner (by arrangement) 15.50 euros.
· The Good Hotel Guide: Continental Europe 2003, co-edited by Caroline Raphael, will be published by Ebury Press on January 16 at £15.99.
A word of advice
When you arrive, take a good look round the room you have been given, to make sure that it is what you want. Some hotels give you their most expensive room as a matter of course; some think you won't discover until too late that it is noisy. If you have any doubts, insist on being shown alternatives before you start unpacking.
