"This is like California in the 1950s: no condos and a beachfront bedroom for $70 dollars a week," says Roberto Gambá del Fiol, 28, as he lounges in the patio of Itaúna Inn. "People in Rio (de Janeiro) are very stressed and need to rest on the weekends. That is why we are here."
As we talk, he explains how the quiet fishing village of Saquarema has suddenly jumped onto the tourist map. But he is actually eyeing the 'Saquarema Express', a 400m-long wave that curls south all the way down to Gruta Nossa Senhora de Lourdes, a waterfront church propped on the rocks like a lighthouse.
A fixture since 1630, the church is subtly lit by a bevy of blue spotlights. Night surfers can focus on what looks like a floating blue church, while lovers on the beach are equally appreciative. But its main audience is the growing number of escapees from industrial civilization who are flocking to Brazil's Costa do Sol. Dozens of abandoned beaches stretch 180km north from Rio de Janeiro to the ritzy resort town of Buzíos. During the June to September "winter" months, temperatures are typically 25C, but they climb to 35C in late February in time for summer and the Carnival celebration.
After a weekend with the guys at Itaúna Inn, it wasn't difficult to see why 24-year-old Nick Edwards might dump his life in Cornwall for the chance to live and love along these deserted beaches on the coast of Rio de Janeiro state. Nick says that the September 11 terrorism attacks and ensuing military madness drove him abroad. "The only way you can really question the news is to go and talk to people in person. You sure aren't going to get it by reading the papers. I don't expect to solve any of these problems, but I need to understand them."
Edwards is part of a growing group now hitting Brazilian beaches - the 'Professionals on Sabbatical Seeking Escape'. They are not in Brazil for the week-long package tour, but are there instead for the long-term, burned out from the professional grind. Not only do they not have jobs, few even have working papers: they have to go to Argentina every three months to cross a border and renew their tourist visa. Edwards is a typical POSSE member; he readily adopts a carioca lifestyle that includes part-time work as an English teacher and three- to four-hour stretches of playing the harmonica, riding the waves or just reading in a hammock. He is also chief bartender at Sparky's, a beachside grill offering cold beer to the throngs of hungry, wet surfers - and the thonged Brasilenas who brazenly stalk them.
"I could never go back to the city," admits Patricia Padilla, a stunning airhostess for Varig, the Brazilian national airlines. Patricia gave up her city life and salary for peace and quiet as a beach photographer. "If I move from here," she says, "it will be to an even more mellow place."
Nestled in a mountain valley two hours north of Rio de Janeiro, Saquarema feels light years away from the colourful madness of Rio. With none of the urban violence but all of the Brazilian charm, Saquarema is just one stop on the Costa do Sol. When you take into account Brazil's huge currency devaluation over the past six months, travelling to or living here is suddenly a fantasy come true. A room at the Itaúna Inn includes breakfast, ocean view, some of the world's best surfing, a 30km beach, fresh seafood, snorkelling and probably a whole lot more for around £8 a night. A huge burrito at Sparky's costs 80p. "I think we need to raise our prices," complains Vincent, the owner. "The Australians would definitely pay three times this."
That this fishing village escaped tourism is fortunate. In the early 1960s, Brigitte Bardot eloped with her swarthy Brazilian boyfriend to a similar place, sunbathed topless and declared the whole thing an aphrodisiacal wonderland. The village in question - Armaçao de Búzios, 80km north of Saquarema - was promptly invaded by investors who were quick to capitalise on the 23 pristine beaches tucked into romantic coves.
Saquarema could have been subject to a similar fate. Instead of miniature beaches, it offers endless white waves, every conceivable water sport, and wildlife. There are jungle parks both in the hills and along the beachfront. Killer whales and communities of sea turtles roam the surf. On the shore, golden-faced monkeys sing from their home in the cashew grove. "You know why we aren't famous?" complains Berenice Borges, a reporter for the local newspaper. "Brigitte Bardot took a wrong turn. She was looking for Saquarema and got lost."
Over the past year, Saquarema has considerably beefed up its infrastructure and attractions. In June, the inauguration of the Brazilian Olympic volleyball training centre brought a wave of world class athletes. Now their fans are arriving. In October, the WTC Pro Surf tour was held in Saquarema and the world discovered one of Rio's best kept secrets - Itaúna Beach. But just as the hordes of tourists started appearing on the beaches the ocean itself started acting strangely.
The beaches around Saquarema are now inundated with species usually found 1000km south in the cold depths of Patagonia, creatures like la centolla, a crab the size of a poodle. So many penguins were washed on shore that locals took them in as pets. The king crabs were also domesticated, placed on leashes and paraded about. When a pod of killer whales started jumping through the waves, the surfers scrambled. "I paddled out on a long board, and I tried to get close but they were too fast," says Gambá, who spent an entire afternoon shadowing the six black and white orcas. "They are huge, bigger than an elephant." Local fisherman have a name for the phenomenon. They call it ressurgencía, and point out that the peninsula north of Saquarema is Cabo Frio (Cold Point) and is so rich in aquatic life that snorkellers and scuba divers visit from all over the world.
I race my rental car north for a jaunt along the beaches. In Brazil the drivers hurtle up curves and pass on the right. Volleyball-sized potholes are arranged like an obstacle course and dozens of borracherias (tire patching stands) line the road. The trip from Rio to Saquarema twists through jungle-clad mountains and lush farming valleys, but north of Saquarema the terrain resembles a desert. I stop every half dozen beaches to climb the dunes and gawk. Beach fatigue sets in. My head hurts.
Why do I keep driving when confronted by these lagoons and dazzling white dunes? Because the promise of Brazil's best scuba spots is leading me to the end of Cabo Frio, to the peninsular town of Arraial do Cabo. Sharks, penguins and huge crab colonies await me. "They sound like a big pizza hitting the surface," a local surfer says, as he describes a close encounter with a leaping manta ray. But a tropical storm eliminates any chance of diving and instead I putter around on a tour boat, watching sea lions and wishing I was 40m down in the blue coves.
From Arraial, I drive north-east and the sand laps at the highway. Ranches are replaced by customised vacation homes, clothing boutiques, flamboyant gay nightlife and dozens of inexpensive pousadas (inns). Welcome to Buzíos, where another band of refugees have made their home. Half the locals and an even higher percentage of the storeowners are Argentine. They have economic control of Buzíos and today the town is awash with poseurs - designer clad refugees from the economic meltdown in Buenos Aires.
With 23 beaches arrayed like spokes on a wheel, I don't know where to start. When I ask the owner of one pousada, he offers to drive me around. "What kind of beach do you want, a beach with waves or without? A beach with a bar or no bar? Or a beach with a bar but no waves, or a beach with no waves..."
Azedinha is a cove that offers flowering cacti and protected pools for snorkelling and swimming. Despite being no more than 50m long and listed in every guidebook, Azedinha is pleasantly unpopulated. A small crowd watches the paddleball match in the surf, couples kiss and picnic in the sand. Nearly naked fishermen exaggerate their efforts as they haul up fish, banter with the tourist crew, show off their catch and head back to sea in a skiff. Other men ditch a mini schooner on the beach and set about cleaning away the grime and painting the hull.
Where is everyone? Why are Buzíos' beaches empty until noon? Then I realise that dinner starts at 10pm, the party at 11pm, and caipirinhas last until dawn. I discover the nightlife along the glitzy Rua de pedras. After that first naive visit to the morning beach, I never again witness a sunrise in Buzíos.
Getting there
Rio de Janeiro is a 14-hour flight from London. The car or bus trip north is between two and three hours.
Three Brazilian beach towns
Saquarema
90 minutes north of Rio, this town has surf, wildlife and long empty beaches. Low budget accommodation is available at the Itaúna Inn (55-22-2651-5147) which has 11 rooms, all with private bath, only a few with air conditioning. Friendly staff speaks English and can arrange diving trips, fishing expeditions and horse treks.
Slightly more expensive, and far more chic, is the Maasai Hotel (55-22-2651-1092) which has 18 apartments, stylish decor and an excellent restaurant with a panoramic beach view.
Arraial do Cabo
Two and a half hours north of Rio, this is the last point of the long Cabo Frio peninsula which boasts many beaches and top scuba diving in a tranquil Brazilian coastal community. For a mid range bungalow along the rocky coastline, try Casa da Pedra (55-21-2294-2153). You can hire diving gear and get lessons with Arraial Sub (55-22-2622-1945) which is a professional scuba diving school and tour agency. Very experienced with foreigners, multilingual staff, conveniently located near the docks. Reasonable prices.
Buzíos
Three hours north of Rio, Buzios is the chic, gay-friendly boutique area. Plenty of shopping, dining and dozens of inexpensive hotels known as pousadas.
Useful links
Planet Costa do Sol Portuguese language website with excellent photos of coast.
Buzios Tourismo Plenty of tourist information on Buzios as well as maps and accommodation listings.
Journey Latin America, 020 8747 3108. Specializes in customised trips to Latin America.
Scott Dunn Travel, 020 8682 5050. Offers week-long trips to Buzíos with stylish hotel, day tours and transportation all taken care of.
