Address: Ranlegh Place, Liverpool L3 5UL.

Telephone: 0151-709 7200.

Email: adelphi@britannia hotels.com.

Website: britanniahotels.com.

Initial impressions: Haven't I been here before? Or did I just watch too many episodes of Hotel Adelphi, one of the first fly-on-the-wall documentaries broadcast five years ago? And isn't that Brian "just cook" Burchall, now promoted to general manager, who became star of many a pantomime after his on-screen performance? And is this a hotel or is it a ship? Built in 1912 for Liverpool's transatlantic passengers, and designed by the same man who did the Titanic, it's like a liner in dry dock.

What are the rooms like? Variable (there are 402 of them), but original wood panelling features in most and there's enough marble to sink a ship. The decoration is original, but the furnishing and carpet priceless 70s, with sofas that are almost retro.

The bed test: Soft, creaky and, you've guessed it, with a huge inlaid wooden headboard. Is that land ahoy?

The bathroom test: Bigger than most studio flats, it's washing Edwardian style, with a bath so old it's deep enough to swim in and huge taps that creak as they turn.

The restaurant: There's the cavernous Jenny's Carvery, as retro as the sofas, and the more intimate, though far from romantic, Crompton's -both equally bad. Black forest gateau with everything. You can fantasise about being a first class passenger in the rest of the hotel, but here reality kicks in. The staff are supremely helpful, but nothing saves soggy toast and bad chicken soup.

The bar: Attached to Crompton's, and no more charming. There's a separate residents' bar which doesn't open until 11pm.

How much: From bargain £50 for room to equally good value £150 for an enormous suite.