Somehow I always forget just how wonderful it is to step out of a plane and draw in that first breath of fresh, crisp mountain air. Arriving at Innsbruck airport, surrounded by huge glistening peaks, the soul is immediately invigorated.
Just a 15-minute drive away, perched on the side of the 7,380ft Patscherkofel mountain, lies the quiet Tyrolean village of Igls. Although the history books might show that this picturesque community hosted the most dramatic Olympic downhill ski race of all time in 1976, the skiing guidebooks hardly rate the resort for skiers. But then, in so many ways, that is why it is worth considering, especially if your main priority is to recharge your batteries.
My visit was to do a bit of both. Franz Klammer was commemorating the 25th anniversary of his celebrated gold medal with a charity race on behalf of the Franz Klammer Foundation, set up three years ago to assist disabled athletes.
The family-run Sport Hotel, in the centre of the village, is a five-star establishment with swimming pool, fitness room and beauty parlour all on hand. Just ideal when you need to unwind for a couple of days. And the service is exceptional. It all sounds frighteningly expensive but, amazingly, the relaxation process is continued right up to the settlement of accounts. Bed and breakfast starts at £42 a night in low season, rising to £60 in high season, excluding Christmas.
For a short break, choosing a village whose name doesn't roll off the tongue like Val d'Isère or Verbier, has a huge advantage. The surrounding pistes on the Patscherkofel are more than capable of refreshing the stagnant muscles for a few hours in the day. Just a short bus ride away is the new Olympia Express four-seater chairlift which, in minutes, whisks skiers just short of the start of the Olympic downhill, a suitable complement of snow guns ensuring that the runs back down to the village have a good covering of snow throughout the winter.
However, the real treat comes through the host of other diversions. The village is also famous for its bobsleigh track, on which Nash and Dixon won a gold medal for Britain in 1964. During the winter season, the track is open for a spine-tingling run at speeds of up to 80mph. Over on the other side of the valley, on the Seegrube, you can make a tandem hang-glider or paraglider flight for just over £50.
If all that sounds a bit hair-raising, ride up the same cable car to the mountain restaurant which hosts a special gourmet night every Friday - with the lights of Innsbruck twinkling below. Despite the reputation of the sachertorte chocolate cake, Austria never used to star in the culinary awards. But in the last 10 years it has made giant strides, and the award-winning Hotel Wilder Mann in the neighbouring village of Lans is one of the best examples of the transformation from wiener schnitzel and chips to a regal night of dining in atmospheric surroundings.
When I was in the British ski team, we used to be desperate for a break from hotel food and would stop in Innsbruck to feast in the only Indian restaurant in the Alps. Nowadays, the capital city of Tyrol has even more to offer the visitor. The historic university town has a population of more than 100,000, of which around 34,000 are students. The old city centre around the Inn river sparkles with beautifully restored baroque and gothic buildings, the most famous being the Goldenes Dachl built in 1420 by Friedrich IV as the residence for the Tyrolean sovereigns. A few years later, Emperor Maximilian I added the 2,738 fire-gilt copper tiles over the oriel window that gave the building its golden look.
The Imperial Palace, the Landetheater and the Alpine Zoo are also worth a look, but you cannot visit the city without checking out the Bergisel Olympic ski jump. Just walk to the top and imagine what Eddie the Eagle felt like as he launched himself off down the white ramp to the valley seemingly miles below. The city's cemetery may catch your eye just below the landing area.
If you are not keen on risking your limbs, you can take a chance with your wallet instead. The Innsbruck casino is a popular after-dinner haunt. On the last night, we chanced our hand on the tables, and two of the greatest slalom skiers, Ingemar Stenmark and Alberto Tomba - who between them have won 136 World Cup races - caused quite a stir drifting among the gamblers.
I had been away for just three days, but a few turns on the mountain, combined with a comfortable hotel, some good wine and a winning streak on the tables, meant that I headed back home with renewed vigour.
And what did I spend my winnings on? Innsbruck airport has a baker's shop right next to the check-in desk. So I filled up the spare capacity in my suitcase with a few freshly baked loaves and rolls. Breakfast at home the next day was a tasty reminder of the rich vein of spices that reward those who search beyond the travel brochures.
Way to go
Getting there: Inghams (020-87804444, inghams.com) offers a week's half board at the Sporthotel Igls (+377241, sporthotel-igls.com) from £575pp including return flights from Gatwick.
Where to eat: Hotel Wilder Mann, Lans (+379696).
Further information: See franzklammerfoundation.com and select the 'english' option. For bobsleigh, see tirol.com/olympia-innsbruck. For para-gliding: Mountain Fly Raimund Kiernast (+378488). Area code: 0043 5412. Time difference: GMT +1hr. Flight time: Gatwick-Innsbruck: 1hr 30min. £1 = 1.59 euros.
