Caroline Raphael 

Check in and chill out

Caroline Raphael, editor of the Good Hotel Guide, selects 50 favourites to mark the launch of the guide's Continental Europe edition.
  
  


City hotels

The growth of low-cost airlines - Ryanair, Easyjet, Go and Buzz - has encouraged travellers to take advantage of a cheap fare and find their own accommodation. Here are 10 ideas for the more popular cities:

1 Vienna
König von Ungarn
Schulerstrasse 10, 1010 Vienna, Austria.
Tel 0043 1 515 840, fax 515 848
hotel@kvu.at, www.kvu.at
Near St Stephan's cathedral and very good shopping; said to be the oldest hotel in Vienna. Pleasant atrium with greenery; vaulted restaurant. 32 bedrooms. B&B Sch1,195-1,690 (£55-£77). Set dinner Sch490 (£22). Airline: Buzz.

2 Carcassonne
Domaine d'Auriac
Route de St-Hilaire, BP 554, Carcassonne 11009 Aude, France.
Tel 00 33 4 6825 7222, fax 6847 3554
auriac@relaischateaux.fr, www.relaischateaux.fr
In park close to hilltop fortress: nineteenth-century classical mansion, elegant, luxurious but unostentatious. Michelin-starred restaurant; 18-hole golf course, swimming pool, tennis. 26 bedrooms. D, B&B Fr600-1,500 (£58-£145). Airline: Ryanair.

3 Lyon
Cour des Loges
6 rue du Boeuf, 69005 Lyon Rhône.
Tel 00 33 4 7277 4444, fax 7240 9361
contact@courdesloges.com, www.courdesloges.com
In lively area of Vieux Lyon, an unusual luxury hotel: four old buildings with dramatic art deco interior, large atrium, modern paintings, roof garden, wine cellar, garage. 62 bedrooms. B&B 770-1,420 frs (£75-£135). Meal 350 frs (£33). Airlines: Buzz, Ryanair and Go.

4 Paris
Hôtel de l'Abbaye St-Germain
10 rue Cassette, 75006 Paris, France.
Tel 0033 1 4544 3811, fax 4548 0786
hotel.abbaye@wanadoo.fr, www.hotel-abbaye.com
Near St-Sulpice: former monastery, now elegant B&B hotel. Courtyard (with greenery and pond) for drinks and breakfast; conservatory. 46 bedrooms. B&B Fr610-1,220 (£59-£117). Airlines: Buzz and Ryanair (from Prestwick).

5 Berlin
Hecker's Hotel
Grolmanstrasse 35 10623 Berlin, Germany.
Tel 00 49 30 88900, fax 30 8890260
info@heckers-hotel.com, www.heckers-hotel.com
Good value for its central location in Charlottenburg area: stylish hotel with glossy modern decor, roof terrace, Mediterranean-style restaurant. 71 bedrooms. D, B&B Dm233-358 (£75-£115.) Airline: Buzz.

6 Nice
Le Grimaldi
15 rue Grimaldi, 06000 Nice, Alpes-Maritimes, France.
Tel 00 33 4 93 16 00 24, fax 87 00 24
jlz@le-grimaldi.com, www.le-grimaldi.com
Yann and Joanna Zedde's B&B in belle époque town house with bright Provençal decor. On quiet street near old town, 10 minutes walk from beach. 23 bedrooms. Fr410-870 (£40-£85). Airline: EasyJet.

7 Bologna
Hotel Orologio
Via IV Novembre 10, 40123 Bologna, Italy.
Tel 00 39 051 231 253, fax 260 552
hotoro@tin.it, www.cnc.it/bologna
Central but quiet B&B hotel in tall building in pedestrianised zone near main square: good bedrooms; excellent buffet breakfast. 34 bedrooms. B&B Lr157,000-350,000 (£51-£114). Airline: Go.

8 Milan
Hotel Spadari al Duomo
Via Spadari 11, 20123 Milan, Italy.
Tel 00 39 02 7200 2371, fax 861 184
reservation@spadarihotel.com, www.spadarihotel.com
Stylish little B&B hotel in side street near duomo; modern-romantic decor; works of art, extravagant flower arrangements. Good breakfast and snacks, in bright bar. 39 bedrooms. B&B Lr130,000-368,000 (£42-£120). Airlines: Buzz and Go.

9 Venice
Agli Alboretti
Accademia 884, Dorsoduro, 30123 Venice, Italy.
Tel 00 39 041 5230 058, fax 5210 158
alborett@gpnet.it, www.logis.it
Unassuming little hotel, good value, near Gallerie dell'Accademia; simple decor; good food in ochre-walled courtyard, under a canopy of leaves and vines. 19 bedrooms. D, B&B L205,000-245,000 (£67-£80). Airlines: Buzz and Ryanair.

10 Lisbon
Lapa Palace
Rua do Pau de Bandeira 4, 1240-021 Lisbon, Portugal.
Tel 00 351 21 394 9494, fax 395 0665
info@hotelapa.com, www.orient-expresshotels.com
On hillside (fine views) in residential area; big, opulent hotel in beautiful gardens. Large outdoor swimming pool; health club; very good restaurant. 108 bedrooms. D, B&B 35,300-55,300 esc (£111-£174). Airline: Go.

Lakes and mountains

1 Tirol
Parkhotel am Tristachersee
Lienz, 9900 Tirol, Austria.
Tel 00 43 4852 67666, fax 4852 67699
tristachersee@osttirol.com, www.tophotels.com/tristachersee
On small lake beside wooded hills, with Dolomites in background: Kreuzer family's chalet-style hotel with simple, modern decor; large dining terrace above lake; indoor pool and spa; garden. 43 bedrooms. D, B&B Sch700-1,370 (£32-£63).

2 French Alps
Le Cordonant
Cordon, 74700 Haute-Savoie, France.
Tel 00 33 4 5058 3456, fax 5047 9557
Pretty chalet hotel in resort village west of Chamonix: views of Mt Blanc and ski slopes; rustic decor; very good food; terrace for summer meals; pleasant garden. 16 bedrooms. D, B&B Fr 260-410 (£25-£40).

3 Lake Constance
Seehotel Siber
Seestrasse 25, Konstanz, 78464 Baden-Württemberg, Germany.
Tel 00 49 07531 63044, fax 07531 64813
seehotel.siber@t-online, www.integra.fr/relaischateaux/siber
Handsome white Jugendstil villa on shores of Lake Constance, with wide views to Swiss Alps: much panelling, stained glass, modern art; Michelin-starred restaurant; terrace for summer meals, Mediterranean-style gardens, lakeside footpath. 12 bedrooms. D, B&B Dm375-465 (£120-£150).

4 Lake Garda
Villa del Sogno
Via Zanardelli 107, Fasano del Garda, 25083 Brescia, Italy.
Tel 00 39 0365 290181, fax 0365 290230
villadelsogno@gardalake.it, www.gardalake.it/villadelsogno
Elegant hotel on Lake Garda. Lake views from flower-filled terrace where meals are served, and from large bedrooms. Large public rooms, elaborately decorated; garden with swimming pool, tennis. 31 bedrooms. D, B&B Lr230,000-305,000 (£75-£99).

5 Norang
Hotel Union Øye
Norangsfjorden, 6196 Norway.
Tel 00 47 7006 2100, fax 7006 2116.
post@unionoye.no, www.unionoye.no
Set in remote mountains in Norang valley: Swiss Gothic-style hotel (regularly visited by Kaiser Wilhelm and Conan Doyle); immaculately restored; efficient service; good dinners, huge breakfasts.26 bedrooms. D, B&B 1,005-1,205 Nkr (£77-£92).

6 Portugal
Quinta do Barranco da Estrada
Santa Clara-a-Velha, 7665-880 Beja, Portugal.
Tel/fax 00 351 283 93 39 01
paradiseinportugal@mail.telepac.pt, www.paradise-in-portugal.com
In the Alentejo: Frank and Lulu McClintock's family home, set amid orange and lemon trees and flowers, above huge, unpolluted lake. Lots of wildlife and bird-watching. Communal meals. Eight simple bedrooms. B&B 11,500-27,000 esc (£36-£85).

7 Lake Bled
Vila Bled
Cesta Svobode 26 , Bled, 4260 Gorenjska, Slovenia.
Tel 00386 04 5791 500, fax 5741 320
vilabled@robas.si, www.vilabled.robas.si
On low hill, former royal palace remodelled by Tito, now Slovenia's most sumptuous hotel; good restaurant; 13-acre park with private lido. 30 bedrooms. D, B&B (£64-£92).

8 Sweden
Toftaholm Herrgård
Lagan, 340 14 Småland, Sweden.
Tel 00 46 370 440 55, fax 370 440 45
frontoffice@toftaholmherrgard.com, www.toftaholmherrgard.com
Fourteenth-century manor house on shores of Lake Vidöstern: private beach, fishing, swimming. 45 bedrooms. D, B&B Skr952-1,425 (£69-£103).

9 Lake Maggiore
Casa Berno
Ascona 6612 Ticino, Switzerland.
Tel 00 41 91 791 3232, fax 792 1114
hotel@casaberno.ch, www.casaberno.ch
Well-run modern hotel above Lake Maggiore: great views from bedrooms and public rooms; swimming pool and lovely roof terrace (summer meal service).61 bedrooms. D, B&B SFr205-285 (£86-£119).

10 Swiss Alps
Relais du Belvédère
Champex-Lac, 1938 Valais, Switzerland.
Tel 0041 27 783 1114 fax 783 2576
belvedere@dransnet.ch
The Favre-Holsacker family's country inn sits amid pine-covered, snow-capped mountains in a charming family resort; spectacular views; Alpine decor, good food; near lake with boating, fishing, winter skating. Nine bedrooms. D, B&B SFr90-110 (£37-£46).

Child-friendly hotels

The following hotels are particularly good for a family holiday:

1 Austria
Hoteldorf Grüner Baum
Kötschachtal, Bad Gastein, 5640 Salzburger Land, Austria
Tel 00 43 6434 25160, fax 6434 251625
info@grunerbaum.com, www.grunerbaum.com
Set in the Hohe Tauern national park, a hunting lodge and surrounding chalets form the Blumschein family's village-style hotel: good family accommodation; family-friendly weeks (young children stay free); indoor and outdoor pools; adventure playground; 'cure centre' with thermal bath. 83 bedrooms. D, B&B Sch1,240-2,220 (£56-£100)

2 Austria
Hotel Madrisa
Gargellan, 6787 Vorarlberg, Austria.
Tel 00 43 5557 6331 fax 5557 633182
gast@madrisahotel.com, www.madrisahotel.com
Rhomberg family's informal hotel, near lifts and ski school in highest resort in Montafon valley: children's playroom; large indoor pool; free mountain bikes; good organic meals. 59 bedrooms. D, B&B Sch620-2,020 (£28.50-£93).

3 France
Auberge sur la Montagne
La Thuile, Ste-Foy-Tarantaise, France.
Tel 00 33 4 7906 9583, fax 4 7906 9596
lauberge@wanadoo.fr
Suzanne and Andy Mac's small hotel in a hamlet near Bourg-St-Maurice: relaxed style; sensational views; family suites, children's games; Savoyard specialities in restaurant; small garden; terrace; plunge pool. Seven bedrooms. D, B&B Fr275-675 frs (£26-£65).

4 Germany
Hotel Spielweg
Spielweg 61, Obermünstertal, Münstertal, 79244 Baden-Württemberg, Germany.
Tel 00 49 7636 7090, fax 07636 70966
spielweg@romantik.de
Fuchs family's old hostelry, folksy but elegant, set in hilly meadows south of Freiburg; indoor and outdoor pools; children's play area. 42 bedrooms. D, B&B Dm170-340 (£55-£109).

5 Greece
Hotel Minoa
56 Actis, 210 56 Toló, Peloponnese, Greece.
Tel 00 30 752 59207, fax 752 59707
kingmino@otonet.gr, www.geocities.com/familygeorgidakis
Georgidakis family's hotel, on beach of popular resort with clean, shallow sea; water sports; boat trips; access to pool. 42 bedrooms. D, B&B 11,750-18,250 drs (£21-£34). Open 15 Mar-5 Nov.

6 Italy
Relais Torre Pratesi
Via Cavina 11, Brisighella, 48015 Ravenna, Italy.
Tel 00 39 0546 84545, fax 84558
torrep@tin.it
Pink-washed farmhouse, west of charming town (best rooms are in sixteenth-century fortified tower); music room, library; garden with pool, play area, mini-gym, goats and chickens. Good no-choice meals. Seven bedrooms. D, B&B (including wine) Lr200,000-230,000 (£65-£75).

7 Italy
Hotel Bad Ratzes
Via Ratzes 29, Siusi allo Sciliar, 39040 Bolzano, Italy.
Tel 00 39 0471 706131, fax 0471 707199
info@badratzes.it, www.badratzes.it
Cheerful chalet-style hotel has beautiful skiing in winter and is also a summer resort. Children of all ages welcomed: special menus, games, baby-sitters, entertainments, cookery classes. Large pool; huge garden; rich and delicious meals. 48 bedrooms (most are big, with balcony). D, B&B Lr 120,000-200,000 (£39-£65).

8 Portugal
Quinta do Pintor
Estrada dos Canaviais, Évora, 7000-804 Portugal.
Tel 00 351 266 706 915.
Antonio and Maria Rosado's simple, peaceful, farmhouse outside the superb old city; garden with pets, organic fruit and veg; set meals (by arrangement, minimum eight people) 3,500 esc (£11) per head. Five bedrooms. B&B 5,000-11,000 esc (£15-£35).

9 Majorca
Hotel Mar i Vent
Carrer Major 49, Bañalbufar, 07191 Majorca.
Tel 00 34 971 61 8000, fax 61 8201
marivent@bitel.es, www.fehm.es
Run for many years by the Vives family: modest hotel on north side of island, above steeply terraced, cultivated slopes and sea cove; good, straightforward cooking; tennis court, pool. 29 simple, bright bedrooms, with balcony. D, B&B Pts 10,750-16,000 (£41-£61). Closed Dec-Jan.

10 Switzerland
Hotel Beau-Site
Saas-Fee, 3906 Valais, Switzerland.
Tel 00 41 27 958 1560, fax 958 1565
hotel.beau-site@saas-fee.ch, www.romantikhotels.com/rhsaas
In a resort surrounded by some of the highest peaks of the Alps, this chalet has family suites (some with cooking area); children's menus; games room; indoor pool. 32 bedrooms. D, B&B SFr128-238 (£54-£100). Romantic hotels

Ten ideas just for the two of you.

1 Belgium
Hostellerie du Prieuré de Conques
2 rue de Conques, Herbeumont, 6820 Luxembourg Belge, Belgium.
Tel 00 32 6141 1417, fax 6141 2703
www.conques.be
In a wooded valley by River Semois: former Cistercian priory, tastefully converted; very peaceful; good Ardennes cooking. 18 bedrooms. D, B&B BFr3,200-5,100 (£50-£80).

2 Prague
Hotel U raka
Cernínská 10/93, Prague 1, 118 00 Czech Republic.
Tel 00 420 2 205 111 00, fax 105 11
uraka@login.cz, www.romantikhotels.com/prag
Stylish guest house up hill near castle. Elegant conversion of old buildings around courtyards: tiled floors, beamed ceilings, open hearths, modern furniture, paintings by local artists; kitchen/bar/ breakfast room with open fire; small Japanese-style garden; meals by arrangement. Six bedrooms. B&B 3,100-6,200 koruna (£55-£100).

3 Denmark
Steensgaard Herregårdspension
Millinge, 5642 Denmark.
Tel 00 45 62 61 9490, fax 6361 7861
steensgaard@herregardspension.dk, www.herregaardspension.dk
On island of Funen, in park with lake and reserve for deer and wild boar: perfectly preserved fourteenth-century moated manor house. Beautiful public rooms; good food; lovely garden. 14 bedrooms. D, B&B DKr850-1,210 (£70-£102).

4 France
Le Moulin de la Gorce
La Roche-l'Abeille, St-Yrieix-la-Perche, 87800 Haute-Vienne, France
Tel 00 33 5 5500 7066, fax 7657
moulingorce@relaischateaux.fr, www.relaischateaux.fr/moulingorce
In remote hilly country south of Limoges: elegant hotel composed of sixteenth-century mills and a millhouse. Michelin two-star restaurant. breakfast by pond with ducks. 10 bedrooms. D, B&B Fr 775-850 (£75-£82)

5 Italy
Luna Convento
Via Pantaleone Comite 33, Amalfi, 84011 Salerno, Italy.
00 39 089 871002, fax 089 871333
luna@amalficoast.it
High above gulf of Salerno: medieval convent founded by St Francis of Assisi, now a beautiful hotel. Quiet cloister with lemon and kumquat trees; panoramic dining room; restaurant in old Saracen fortress jutting into sea; swimming pool carved into rocks. 45 bedrooms. D, B&B Lr200,000-230,000 (£65-£75).

6 Italy
Villa San Michele
Via della Chiesa N.462, Massa Pisana, 55050 Lucca, Italy.
Tel 00 39 0583 370276 fax 0583 370277
htlvillasmichele@tin.it
4km from this wonderful walled city of Lucca: Giuseppe Santarelli's thirteenth-century villa in large grounds amid olive cork, oak and bay trees, old urns and moss-covered walls. Buffet breakfast in an old brick-floored kitchen. 30 bedrooms. B&B Lr150,000-315,000 (£48-£100).

7 Netherlands
Kaatje bij de Sluis
Brouwerstraat 20, Blokzijl, Overissjel, 8356 DV, The Netherlands.
Tel 00 31 527 291 833, fax 291 836
kaatje@planet.nl, www.kaatje.nl
By canal in small, lovely, old harbour town, Fons and Anneke von Groeningen's Michelin two-star restaurant, with eight bedrooms across a bridge. Al fresco meals on terrace; seven-course breakfast in garden room. D, B&B 282-405 gld (£80-£116).

8 Portugal
Convento de São Paulo
Aldeia de la Serra, Redondo, 7170 Évora, Portugal.
Tel 00 351 266 98 91 60, fax 99 91 04
hotelconvspaulo@mail.telepac.pt
Twelfth-century monastery on a hillside, in vast estate of olives and cork. Cloistered courtyard; wide corridors; public areas lined by huge collection of azulejos. Garden; pool, art gallery in former chapel. 23 bedrooms. D, B&B 22,100 esc (£70).

9 Portugal
Quinta das Sequóias
Casa da Tapada, Ap. 1004, 2710-500 Sintra, Portugal.
Tel 00 351 21 924 38 21, fax 923 03 42
candigonzalez@hotmail.com
Finely renovated manor house on wooded hill outside Sintra: superb views. Peaceful courtyard; public rooms full of art works; luxurious bedrooms. Buffet breakfast enhanced by live music. Arbour, flowery terraces, fountains, pool. Five bedrooms. B&B: 11,000-25,000 esc (£35-£80).

10 Spain
Casa de Carmona
Plaza de Lasso 1, Carmona, 41410 Sevilla, Spain.
Tel 00 34 95 419 1000, fax 419 0189
reserve@casadecarmona.com, www.casadecarmona.com
Renaissance palace, now a luxury hotel, sumptuously decorated yet intimate. Beautiful bedrooms and bathrooms. Courtyards with potted plants and fountain, ornamental Arab garden with orange trees, small swimming pool. 32 bedrooms. D, B&B Pts 18,000-43,000 (£68-£160).

Castle hotels

France and Spain have some particularly fine examples.

1 Belgium
Château d'Hassonville
Route d'Hassonville 105, Marche-en-Famenne, 6900 Luxembourg Belge, Belgium.
Tel 00 32 84 31 10 25, fax 84 31 60 27.
Seventeenth-century pepper-potted château in huge park with lake, gardens designed by Lenôtre; peacocks, geese, putting green. Seven-course dinner. 20 bedrooms. D, B&B BFr 5,450-8,450 (£85-£130).

2 France
Hostellerie du Château de Bellecroix
RN 6, Chagny, 71150 Saône-et-Loire, France.
Tel 00 33 3 8587 1386, fax 8591 2862.
Medieval castle, turreted and creeper-covered, near Beaune. In lovely park with swimming pool. Good dinners; breakfast alfresco, under trees. 20 bedrooms. D, B&B 610-1,140 (£60-£110).

3 France
Château de Madières
Madières, Ganges, 34190 Gard, France.
Tel 00 33 4 6773 8403, fax 6773 5571
madieres@wanadoo.fr, www.madieres.fr.st
In southern Cévennes, above gorge of river Vis: Mme Brucy's fourteenth-century château. Homely feel; beautiful bedrooms, pool, fitness room. 12 bedrooms. D, B&B Fr750-1,115 frs(£72-£107).

4 France
Château de Nieuil
Nieuil, 16270 Charente, France.
Tel 0033 5 4571 3638, fax 4571 4645
nieuil@relaischateaux.fr, www.relaischateaux.fr/nieuil
Moated former hunting lodge of François I, now M Bodinaud's luxurious hotel, in wooded park near Angoulème. Fine antiques; Michelin-starred restaurant; lovely gardens. 14 bedrooms. D, B&B Fr 870-1,700 (£83-£163).

5 Germany
Burghotel Auf Schönburg
Oberwesel, 55430 Rheinland-Pfalz, Germany.
Tel 00 49 6744 93 930
huettl@hotel-schoenburg.com, www.hotel-schoenburg.com
Hüttl family's stylish conversion of medieval castle, high above the Rhine's west bank: superb views. Outwardly severe, intimate inside. 22 bedrooms. D, B&B Dm260-275 (£83-£88).

6 Italy
Castello di Ripa d'Orcia
San Quirico d'Orcia, 53023 Siena, Italy.
Tel 00 39 0577 897376, fax 898038
info@castelloripadorcia.com, www.castelloripadorcia.com
Magnificent medieval castle on steep hill above Orcia valley. Run by Aluffi Pentini family in house party style. Tranquil, simple, inexpensive, with good Tuscan cooking. Six bedrooms. D, B&B Lr135,000-163,000 (£44-£54).

7 Italy
Castel Pergine
Via al Castello 10, Pergine Valsugana, 38057 Trento, Italy.
Tel 00 39 0461 531158, fax 0461 531329
verena@castelpergine.it, www.castelpergine.it
Verena and Theo Scheider-Neff's medieval castle, in large grounds on hilltop. Marvellous views; good food. 21 bedrooms. D, B&B Lr 110,000-135,000 (£35-£44).

8 Slovenia
Golf Grad Mokrice
Rajec 4, Mokrice, 8261 Dolenjska, Slovenia.
Tel 00 386 7 457 4240, fax 495 7007
terme.catez@terme-catez.si, www.terme-catez.si
Wonderful old castle, sympathetically restored, now a resort hotel. Huge tower bedrooms with circular beds. 18-hole golf course, English-style gardens, lake (fishing, swimming). 28 bedrooms. D, B&B Dm118-209(£38-£68).

9 Spain
Parador de Jarandilla de la Vera
10450 Cáceres, Spain.
Tel 00 34 927 56 01 17, fax 56 00 88
jarandilla@parador.es
Fifteenth-century fortress in chestnut and oak woods. Round stone towers, drawbridge, galleried courtyard; garden with swimming pool amid olive trees. 53 bedrooms. D, B&B Pts 12,000-13,750 (£46-£52).

10 Spain
Parador Castillo de Sigüenza
Plaza del Castillo, Sigüenza, Spain.
Tel 00 34 949 39 01 00, fax 39 13 64
paradorsiguenza@parador.es
Twelfth-century castle (many uses, from Arab citadel to bishop's palace) dominating historic hilltop town. Vaulted restaurant, courtyard, small garden. 81 bedrooms. D, B&B Pts 10,450-15,700 (£40-£60).

· 'The Good Hotel 2001: Continental Europe', edited by Adam and Caroline Raphael (Ebury Press,£16.99).

 

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